Created by: 
Posted:
Jan 28, 2018
06:51PM
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Regardless of how innocent or nefarious things are, the car is a 1972 MK1. I wouldn't recommend taking it into Canada because it may not be something that Customs wouldn't like. Other than that, I hope the new owner can trace it back through previous owners and get it straightened out.
"Retired: No Job, No Money, Wife and I! Will travel anywhere for Minis"
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There is another more nefarious explanation which is best left unsaid on a public forum.
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Since your car is obviously a MK1, and would have always been legal to import, it's more likely that it's identity got donated to a later car that was imported. Not a whole lot you could do about that, but if it was mine I'd try to determine exactly what year it was and try to get it a number that identifies it as a MK1. As someone said, a MK1 is much more desirable than a MK3, which is what a 72 would be. Shame that someone else might have the identity of your car on their (most likely) Canadian import.
"Retired: No Job, No Money, Wife and I! Will travel anywhere for Minis"
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naetzker
The VIN number on the registration doesn't match the details of the car and is therefore useless in giving any further info.
Maybe this car was imported 20 years ago or more, when it was still necessary to make them appear older to get around import issues.
I'm looking for a stamped number on the car- but have not had any luck.
Thanks for the advice on the suspension! I haven't driven a classic mini before. It is an absolute ball to drive as it is.
Maybe this car was imported 20 years ago or more, when it was still necessary to make them appear older to get around import issues.
I'm looking for a stamped number on the car- but have not had any luck.
Thanks for the advice on the suspension! I haven't driven a classic mini before. It is an absolute ball to drive as it is.
The wiper motor and boot lid latch should both have a numerical 4 digit week and year of manufacture which should read something similar to 12 64 which would translate to 12th week of 1964 for the production date.
Nice set of 100 plus wheels you have. Parnell's book gives a good reference to Cooper's and Cooper S's.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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For the suspension work, have a look at the performance suspension video thread. You probably won't be doing all they did, but you can see clearly how the components fit together and rely on each other. When he hold the adjustable trumpet up to the cone, you can see where the knuckle joint sits into the trumpet. If you opt for adjustable trumpets, make sure you get the right knuckles for them - there are different sizes to fit the trumpet hole.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
Edited:
Jan 28, 2018
07:32AM
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The VIN number on the registration doesn't match the details of the car and is therefore useless in giving any further info.
Maybe this car was imported 20 years ago or more, when it was still necessary to make them appear older to get around import issues.
I'm looking for a stamped number on the car- but have not had any luck.
Thanks for the advice on the suspension! I haven't driven a classic mini before. It is an absolute ball to drive as it is.
Maybe this car was imported 20 years ago or more, when it was still necessary to make them appear older to get around import issues.
I'm looking for a stamped number on the car- but have not had any luck.
Thanks for the advice on the suspension! I haven't driven a classic mini before. It is an absolute ball to drive as it is.
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What is the VIN on your title or registration which will tell you what the car is supposed to be. The VIN for a MkI Austin Cooper (or Cooper S) starts with C-A2S7, while the Morris version starts with K-A2S4. If you search the articles section on this site you'll find a thorough article on Mini VINs. There are several vendors in the UK that can provide you with a stamped replacement VIN tag. It does seems strange and the reverse of the normal practice to make an older Mini seem younger. A MkI Mini is more desirable than a MkIII Mini. The ride height of your Mini looks pretty good to me, especially if it has the original displacers and standard struts, which indicates to me the displacers are not collapsed and in need of replacement. Keep in mind the suspension system was designed to accommodate a driver and 3 passengers, so it will be a little choppy with just a driver.
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Yes. The number confirms- Canadian 998.
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How do you know that it's a 998? Do you have an engine number?
"Retired: No Job, No Money, Wife and I! Will travel anywhere for Minis"
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Moffet
Yes the rubber cones get harder with age and tend to collapse..........
While this may occurr often ..its not always true.... But there’s no real way to check. You can get an idea of their state by jacking the car up and looking in through the opening in the subframe that can be seen by looking into the engine bay. (Left hand side as you look at them is the easiest to see). If your cones look more or less OK you may be better off sticking to the (ancient) but original items. Modern cones including the factory items are softer than the originals.
..... the attached picture, the cone on the left was from the front suspension of my Mini. (And definitely passed its use date
..........
.......You will need a few tools, including a spring compressor and a ball joint separator. You may find the old cones are firmly stuck to the trumpets (struts) and you end up destroying either the cone or the trumpet or both trying to get them apart. .......
The kindest (to you and the suspension bits) way I have found to do this is to remove the cone and strut, (you will have the remove the top arm to provide sufficient access). Then hold the strut by its thinnest end and whack the cone (hit against the ring that runs around the largest diameter part of the cone) against a nice hard bit of wood (NOT concrete or steel). Try a fairly gentle whack at first before getting too physical... and turn the strut (say) 60 deg between whacks. It will gradually work its way loose. I then use a smear of “Never seize” (copper grease) on the end of the strut before installing the new cone (or replacing the old one).
Cheers, Ian
While this may occurr often ..its not always true.... But there’s no real way to check. You can get an idea of their state by jacking the car up and looking in through the opening in the subframe that can be seen by looking into the engine bay. (Left hand side as you look at them is the easiest to see). If your cones look more or less OK you may be better off sticking to the (ancient) but original items. Modern cones including the factory items are softer than the originals.
..... the attached picture, the cone on the left was from the front suspension of my Mini. (And definitely passed its use date
.................You will need a few tools, including a spring compressor and a ball joint separator. You may find the old cones are firmly stuck to the trumpets (struts) and you end up destroying either the cone or the trumpet or both trying to get them apart. .......
The kindest (to you and the suspension bits) way I have found to do this is to remove the cone and strut, (you will have the remove the top arm to provide sufficient access). Then hold the strut by its thinnest end and whack the cone (hit against the ring that runs around the largest diameter part of the cone) against a nice hard bit of wood (NOT concrete or steel). Try a fairly gentle whack at first before getting too physical... and turn the strut (say) 60 deg between whacks. It will gradually work its way loose. I then use a smear of “Never seize” (copper grease) on the end of the strut before installing the new cone (or replacing the old one).
Cheers, Ian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minimike1
If you want the rubber springs, I'd go for genuine Rover. Look here from our host. I'm sure they stock them.
Does your car have a flip front? I think I might know the car. 1000cc engine?
How about an engine shot and interior shot?
Does your car have a flip front? I think I might know the car. 1000cc engine?
How about an engine shot and interior shot?
I like your profile pic. I spent a few years in the bay area and you couldn't help but fall in love with Jerry and co there!
Yep! Flip front and 998.
Can you tell me anything about the history of my car?
Best,
Nate
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If you want the rubber springs, I'd go for genuine Rover. Look here from our host. I'm sure they stock them.
Does your car have a flip front? I think I might know the car. 1000cc engine?
How about an engine shot and interior shot?
Does your car have a flip front? I think I might know the car. 1000cc engine?
How about an engine shot and interior shot?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spitz
Car looks good in the picturre
id guess it is probably a 62, and probably a cooper
when you do get cones.... make sure they are the Dunlop Moulton proper ones, there are copies out there that are shyte
id guess it is probably a 62, and probably a cooper
when you do get cones.... make sure they are the Dunlop Moulton proper ones, there are copies out there that are shyte
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spitz
Car looks good in the picturre
id guess it is probably a 62, and probably a cooper
when you do get cones.... make sure they are the Dunlop Moulton proper ones, there are copies out there that are shyte
id guess it is probably a 62, and probably a cooper
when you do get cones.... make sure they are the Dunlop Moulton proper ones, there are copies out there that are shyte
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naetzker
Quote:
Originally Posted by specialist
Welcome Naetzker,
tell us what problems you are experiencing with your mini, describe in details if you can and we will walk you through in fixing it every step of the way, that’s the purpose of this forum, and a lot of really knowledgeable and helpful members here.
I enjoy fixing , pimping and driving my mini, im sure you will do to on yours.
Cheers!!
tell us what problems you are experiencing with your mini, describe in details if you can and we will walk you through in fixing it every step of the way, that’s the purpose of this forum, and a lot of really knowledgeable and helpful members here.
I enjoy fixing , pimping and driving my mini, im sure you will do to on yours.
Cheers!!
I am also unsure of what the car is. It is titled as a 1972 but the vin tag was removed when the fiberglass front end was installed. It has a 70's Canadian 998 motor.
I cannot find any other chassis number on the car. The glass dates to 1962 and there are many details that say cooper like the chrome window trim, 100mph speedo, 7" disc brakes, remote shift with factory cutout and blanking plate, trunk board with factory mounts and trunk lid board with 17 screws. If it's not an early cooper, someone went to a lot of trouble to replicate it!
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Car looks good in the picturre
id guess it is probably a 62, and probably a cooper
when you do get cones.... make sure they are the Dunlop Moulton proper ones, there are copies out there that are shyte
id guess it is probably a 62, and probably a cooper
when you do get cones.... make sure they are the Dunlop Moulton proper ones, there are copies out there that are shyte
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
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Yes the rubber cones get harder with age and tend to collapse. In the attached picture, the cone on the left was from the front suspension of my Mini. The middle one is a genuine Moulton standard cone and the one on the right is from the "Smooth-a-Ride" system, designed for a softer, more compliant ride than stock. You can see the old cone has its end pushed in, which is the thinner part of the cone wall that gives the softer ride when the spring is lightly loaded.You will need a few tools, including a spring compressor and a ball joint separator. You may find the old cones are firmly stuck to the trumpets (struts) and you end up destroying either the cone or the trumpet or both trying to get them apart. The knuckle joints may also be worn and should be replaced a the same time, though they are not expensive. The upper suspension arm may need new bearings and shaft and the lower arms will likely need new rubber or synthetic bushings.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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In your area there are a few owners who sometimes frequent this board. Bill (a.k.a. Werewolf) mentioned Al (Old Mini Mover). There is also Daren (Cranium) in the U.S. and Tony (notabmw) in CA. Search for their profiles here and send them introductory emails.
Doug L.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by specialist
Welcome Naetzker,
tell us what problems you are experiencing with your mini, describe in details if you can and we will walk you through in fixing it every step of the way, that’s the purpose of this forum, and a lot of really knowledgeable and helpful members here.
I enjoy fixing , pimping and driving my mini, im sure you will do to on yours.
Cheers!!
tell us what problems you are experiencing with your mini, describe in details if you can and we will walk you through in fixing it every step of the way, that’s the purpose of this forum, and a lot of really knowledgeable and helpful members here.
I enjoy fixing , pimping and driving my mini, im sure you will do to on yours.
Cheers!!
I am also unsure of what the car is. It is titled as a 1972 but the vin tag was removed when the fiberglass front end was installed. It has a 70's Canadian 998 motor.
I cannot find any other chassis number on the car. The glass dates to 1962 and there are many details that say cooper like the chrome window trim, 100mph speedo, 7" disc brakes, remote shift with factory cutout and blanking plate, trunk board with factory mounts and trunk lid board with 17 screws. If it's not an early cooper, someone went to a lot of trouble to replicate it!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whee
Quote:
Originally Posted by Naetzker
Hello!
I acquired this mini back in September and have fallen in love.
The car did not run without the choke, but other than sorting the carb and ignition timing- has been trouble free.
I have moderate wrenching experience and would like to refresh the dry rubber suspension.
Is there anyone in my area that has experience with these cars??
I am located in Buffalo, NY
I acquired this mini back in September and have fallen in love.
The car did not run without the choke, but other than sorting the carb and ignition timing- has been trouble free.
I have moderate wrenching experience and would like to refresh the dry rubber suspension.
Is there anyone in my area that has experience with these cars??
I am located in Buffalo, NY
We can provide a lot of the needed info if you are doing the work yourself.
