My contact info is in my profile. Shot me an email and I will text you a picture. Steve (CTR)

Got it Steve, no picture. Good luck on your valve purchase. Thanks

That is exactly what I did.  I have a piece of 1/4" black nylon air tubing split lengthwise installed over the pull cable shaft to keep the heater valve closed.

Inno special, if you still have it I'd be interested in it. I think I have two now and with a third it may be worth while to attempt rebuilding and resealing. I'm still running one and it has made a real mess. Real busy with the cooler weather and don't think about getting a picture. Steve (CTR)

My Inno had the type steve speaks of.  Was leaking and the only replacement I could find was the normal "out" off.

I'M currently working with a car right now. Owner took a piece of rubber Vacc line= Slit Long ways = and applied to the Pulled Open heater knob exposed shaft.   This Keeps the knob OUT and the Valve Closed . No urge to Push it shut. (opening the circuit)



YES its goofy to have it pulled out but is what it is.

Personally = I just keep a small piece of wire on the heater valve and manually move it open or closed depending on the season.

I do love that, thank you Steve, I look forward to seeing a pic.

OK, you are going to love this. Yes they did at one time make the same valve that mounts at the rear of the head that is pull for heat and push in for off. I have no idea what they were fitted to just found them among old parts bought in bulk. The steel plate has the pivot point up instead of down. I have one on my car and another on the shelf. Both are very old and the one on my car weeps. I went online but could not find any info about these. I also tried to contact the manufacture to see if they would make any more. Seems they don't any longer make any of either type. I'll see if I can get someone to post pictures for me. I'm thinking of buying a couple of the ones now offered and see if I can retro fit and reseal. 

Later cars use a 90 degree tube off the rear of the head and a floating valve in the hose. I have done this on several customer cars wanting to close valve with knob in. The straight heater take off for rear of head is 12 G 2534 I may have had those 90 s made up for each job. Steve (CTR)

There was a study done by one of the mini magazines a few years ago that somebody posted here, where they had done testing of the water flow around #4 with the heater valve open and with it closed.

The conclusion was that the flow in the head in that area was actually better with it closed.  
I guess that since that was how the head was designed to best deal with heat during hot weather that probably shouldn't be much of a surprise.


When it is open they found additional turbulence that created some hot spots.


Note also that the A series motors sold to very hot climates were delivered without that hole drilled, and without heater boxes installed so they couldn't ever take advantage even if it was better for cooling.



Most likely the difference is small, in either case, since the head is cast iron and the engine is not highly stressed, it probably has a fair amount of excess margin.   Still, that study was interesting because it showed the head was designed pretty well in the first place.


As long as you keep the heater matrix in the line, at least then you aren't dumping un-cooled water back into the engine.  


N

True.. it's not meant to provide *extra*cooling .... just better (more even) circulation.

cheers, Ian

All that does is dump hot water into the water pump.

Or even easier.. just loosen the clamp that holds the end of the cable at the tap.  Open the tap while making sure that the knob stays "on"...

Provides the added advantage of improved water circulation past no 4 cylinder.

If you keep the airflow in the cabin closed off you won't notice the hot water flowing through the heater...

Cheers, Ian 

If it bothers you just install an early brass manual valve on off a Sprite just leave the cable there for show. Quality wise they are far superior you just have to get under the bonnet to change the setting.

Hehe, I like your thinking

I have not seen a Mini specific valve that works the "other way" either.  What you could do is make an adapter plate with a barbed fitting to replace the stock valve.  Then you could use some other car's heater valve inline with the heater hose.

Interesting that ALL the pictures of a classic mini dash are set to full heat. Seems I could cut and bend the cable under the dash to keep the stock valve open, and add an inline valve from some old Xler or GM car that works in reverse, to another cable for the dash pull. Just thinking and kind of surprised.

I'm not aware of any made for a Mini that mount on the head that work in reverse. Outside of that I can't help.

can he get a newer one that works the way he wants?

//www.minimania.com/catPage/5-11/5/11/0/Control-Cables-Heater-Valves--Heater-Radiators

The ones for the heads for Minis were In for On and Out for Off.

Good day, I have an A+ 1275 with the water passage in the head drilled for use with the heater valve the car had, in a 62 cooper. Is there a heater valve type that is off/closed when the control knob is pushed in to the dash? Mine seems to operate backward in my opinion, currently for no heat, knob must be pulled all the way out. Looks kind of sloppy with the one knob out most of the year. Cheers.