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 Posted: Aug 13, 2017 07:29PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedduh01

Upper ball joint looks like its moving in and out... each direction pulled.
[update]

As I mentioned, I couldn't see any movement anywhere other than the side-to-side movement of the hub and wheel, leaving me to believe the CV joint was the source of the slop. Before I replaced my upper ball joints, the only movement I saw was an up-and-down movement which was the reason I replaced the ball joints in the first place.

I popped the ball joint apart today just to check. It checked out OK, firm and pretty smooth. Just for fun I removed one of the thinest spacers and re-torqued the nut. The side-to-side play I was concerned about went away. Problem solved. Lesson learned. Thanks everyone!

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports

 Posted: Aug 9, 2017 11:17AM
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A video showing the tie rod end and steering rack bellows would help determine the source of the play.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Aug 9, 2017 07:33AM
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we're watching the same video but seeing different things.

my eyes tell me the outermost portion of the steering rack is pushing in and out with each movement of the wheel. Of course, that's very easy to have happen as there is certainly going to be some movement of the rack while trying to steer the front wheel, even if the column is locked.

 Posted: Aug 9, 2017 07:07AM
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You can put the video in Slow motion... My observation  - Not CV's


Upper ball joint looks like its moving in and out... each direction pulled.
 - Steering Tie rod does not move. (STILL check the tie rod bushing (inside the rack)) Hard to really tell in video.


 Check the actual tightness of the upper ball joints. Should be DIFficult to push with a gloved hand... Possble items settled or were not quite assembled correctly (with the inner cup in proper position to torque properly)

Next look as advised = steering arm - connection to the Knuckle (2 upper bolts, WITH locating dowel pins)
  and Outer Tie rod.. Where the steering arm connects to the steering rod..  Tight Taper fit.

 Posted: Aug 9, 2017 02:21AM
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Simple answer, based on the video you posted, obviously the lower balljoint has loosen a bit, needs re-tighteniing. No need to replace anything.  Check the locktab too.

 Posted: Aug 8, 2017 11:24PM
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I'm going to assume there is no up and down play, just front to back. And that you are convinced your steering wheel isn't moving that amount.

first, check the steering arms both the bolts that hold the arm onto the hub (2 bolts from the top threaded in downwards with locktabs on them). The bolts go through the arms then through a locating dowel (which is what actually holds them in position) and then thread into the hub. Dowels are hidden.


Then also check the tierod ends to see if they are tight at the nut and if they is no play in them where they thread into the steering rack.



Next, see if it is the same on both sides. If it is, it could be your steering rack U bolts that go through the floor/firewall are loose and the whole rack is shifting back and forth. Check those after lifting up your toeboard area carpet.


If it is just doing that on the passenger's side, it is likely the steering rack bushing. There are older posts with how to replace this part


The original bushing in many minis is just a grease-impregnated piece of felt contained in a metal sleeve. (#2 in this pic)


The other thing it could be is the steering rack joint that actually resembles a balljoint. If you look at the bottom assembly in the above pic, you'll see where it is hidden underneath the gaiters/bellows-- there's a dome nut like your balljoint dome nut, and there's a spring loaded cup like the bottom balljoint has on your hub. There's a locktab that is supposed to keep it from loosening because it doens't use shims like the balljoint-- it gets tightened down and then the locktab setup keeps it in place. If the knuckle-type joint wears out, it will get play or if the dome nut backs off it will get play.

Good luck figuring it out.

 Posted: Aug 8, 2017 08:27PM
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I replaced the upper ball joints the other day and thought I'd check them after driving 50 miles or so. The ball joints are fine but I noticed that I can wiggle the wheels horizontally quite a bit [video]. All the suspension members are tight and I don't think the wheel bearing are the culprit as the wheels and hubs move together without any play. So, I'm guessing it's the CV joints that are allowing the movement. I'm not getting any clicking sounds when I turn and everything else is solid. Still, that seems like a lot of movement. What do you folks think?

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports