"do you guys recommend the evans coolant or somthing else?"

There was a recent thread on the subject here:
//www.minimania.com/msgThread/112778/1/1/Waterless_engine_coolant


I've found no down side to it, and the total lack of corrosion (and no need to flush periodically) I very much appreciate.

For folks who think it is too expensive for the benefits, then the good old fashioned 50/50 ethylene glycol coolant still works, but you must remember to flush it every two years because the cast iron rust preventative additives get used up in about that amount of time.  Always use distilled water to mix with.

Don't use any of the modern "long life" coolants because they lack the cast iron protective additives (the reason why they are long life) and are only designed for fully aluminum/plastic systems.


N

I use "Motor Medic" lead substitute, and buy it by the case on Amazon.  It's by far the best price I have found.  Of course, I have no idea how well it is working in there.

I'm back. Sorry took so long but was in uk visiting family. Anyway want to thank everyone for the stellar response, all the ideas are being considered. For now I have it running pretty good after unsticking the float in the carburettor, I definitely will be hitting up Joe Curto for the carb rebuild this year. I will check the numbers on the head and gearbox for originality and post back here when I get a chance. I agree with Minimike about thinking I have to rebuild when all it might be is valve guide seals so I will investigate a bit further. Again I appreciate the advice, you all are in my contact list now.

I did want to ask a couple of things without starting a new thread

Should I use lead additive in a 1275cc 66 Cooper s that I don't think is unleaded converted? If so which is best?
Which oil do you guys recommend? Not a daily driver.

aaand lastly do you guys recommend the evans coolant or somthing else?

I just reinstalled buy original 850 into my 1960 Morris Mini. Steve recently rebuilt this motor for me with very mild modifications just to give it a little bit more pep. The engine runs great and is definitely stronger than it was originally. Another plus is that it does not leak a single drop onto my garage floor even after a good hard drive. Steve is very conscientious about his work and I promise you you will get a good product. If you have any questions do not hesitate to text me at Charlie krop at gmail.com. I would be happy speak to you.

OK pack rat here is my cell number seven 57 eight 80 nine 283 text me and I will send current (this years engines ) I don't do up loads and have a dumb phone, only holds so many pics then have to clear if I want new. You can post them here is you like. I don't want to be anyone's king of anything. Having removed my first cracked 163 head in 67 the soft guides red bronze wore quickly and the valves seated different place each close the they crack. Yes I have seen figure eight seats but they can cause problems. Reducing the exhaust valve size saved issues. Steve (CTR)
Edit:
OK, MPI 1293 one off head from Nick Swift
      SPI  1293 one off head from Calver
      MG Metro 1293
      GT 1400  74 mm
      60 / 850 .020
      998 plus .060
      998 Std/std/std
      MG Metro std/std/std
      948 7 America  1015 

      Have two pre assembled and finish machine work done waiting for bearings. I keep bearing sets just for pre assembly so I assemble with new bearings. If someone will post pics from cell text let me know.

I drove a few years with an early S head on a 1293. It had seats in it, and since they came without seats it obviously had already been worked on. Every now and then one would, ahem, move about. It would sort itself out as the engine warmed, till that one time it did not. Then I had a couple of perfect original ones, and then I had one with the classic crack. Marcel had a similar collection, and we decided to let Bel Engine Service in Edmonton build modern heads up out of the bunch. Heads that could not be saved were sliced open to plan stitching solutions to the heads with cracks. All of these heads will go on S engines filled with premium parts, and I have full confidence in them.

AEG 163 heads flow very well. A person can chant: they all crack, like the chorus in a Greek play, or they can do what I do.

BOBB has an original for sale in the parts for sale section. 

Of course, for the original poster of this thread, or anyone reading this in a similar circumstance, the first thing to do is to determine what a person actually has, what it might need, and what that could cost in relation to their own economic commitment to the car. An S engine that was rebuilt in the 60s or 70s by a competent mechanic can look like it has never been opened up. It could have a later 12G940 or similar Head as easily as it could have the head it left the factory with, and for that matter it could have had the head replaced the day it rolled out of the factory.

S engines are nice, and it makes sense to put them in cars that are actual S cars. 

+1 for Alex on colors, colours. Mur, why intake seats, beat up, recessed? who's the rebuilder? I had a hard time finding one in SE Mich. that had the correct size grinding guide. I found Greg's cyl heads, uses a Serdi machine, He did a great job on a 1275 A+ head, good price too. I would also go with Steve CTR If having an engine/head/trans rebuilt, never heard a bad word regarding his work, and he has a shingle out, especially if a real 1275s drive train. Joe Curto did an outstanding job rebuilding/bushing my twin 1 1/4 su's

Steve,

To answer your smart ass challenge, in the past couple of years I've assembled just three A series motors, a 1275 S, a 1071 S and an AA block 1275.  How about you?  Post up pics for us.  Let's see all this work you crank out.  Once you post up pics of...how many is it??, then I'll refrain from offering any opinion to other forum members since you're the King of the Hill. 

My apology to Waverider.  Guy just wanted advice on his car and it turns into a Forum rock throw.

Mur give Bob Johns a call when you have a little time. I try to keep in touch weekly. Regards Steve (CTR)

No room for seats? 

I had a few AEG 163s rebuilt last year by a drag racing cylinder head specialist. He had no problem fitting seats. His work is very high end.

Maybe it's different air on the other side of the Pond, but over here black smoke on acceleration tells you the engine is running really rich...
Blue smoke is oil burning (on lift off is rings, on acceleration is guide seals), and white smoke is coolant.

cooper tune.. 970 or 1071 in a moke?? both engine have to worth $10k EACH..  but  it would ROCK..   later bc

I'm sorry if I have offended you in some way. Do you want to answer my question? How many Cooper S engines have you rebuilt? ( The coolest head ever? )  I will with draw it's clear you have this and want it badly. Steve (CTR) 

BC, they are two of my favorite people. His Choke got what I call my baby Cooper S. Big bore 998 with valve pockets and a 940 11 stud cyl, head. Having a hard time not putting my 970 or one of my 1071 S engines in my Moke 66 UK. 

Whoa, Steve, why would you post something like that??  Only what, three-four guys are trying to offer Waverider information on his car and you're throwing rocks?  I'm not trying to sell the man anything so if you want to bluster your way to King of the Hill on the MM forum, go for it.  But your uncalled for comment is just that.
 

copper tune.. saw gordo and sue backstay at the Delbert McClinton concert this weekend at the Neighborhood Theatre..  and he was raving about the engine job you do on his baby blue Choke..  waverider you can NOT go wrong using cooper tune for the cooper s engine /tranny rebuilt..  forget all the other ones listed.. on the west coast.. later bc

I rebuilt my first A series engine back in the mid 60 s. Around 66 / 67 I did my Sprite 948. In 68 / 69 I did my mini 850 followed by Cooper S engines starting in in early 70 s. While you are getting some interesting information I can't help but wonder when was the last time any of these posters stripped and rebuilt a org. and correct Cooper S power unit? Yes they have a special block, crank, rods and cyl head. It has been normal for correct S parts to go missing from these cars over the years. Early heads are prone to cracking. There is no room for hard valve seats in those heads. It would be a good idea to share some pictures with someone and look at options. Steve (CTR) 

neil,
your black smoke upon acceleration from a stop is from bad exhaust valve guide seals. You can replace these without taking the head off the car and it's a very inexpensive fix.  Do that first and stop thinking you need to rebuild everything on the car.

Was the engine size established?

I'm on LI, in NY.  Let me know if I can help.

If you do want to have your carbs redone, Joe Curto as mentioned is the man.  718 762-SUSU  I think it's 7878.

//joecurto.com/contact

The way to do the exhaust valve guide seal is to stuff the cylinder with rope, like clotheline and then bring the piston up. This keeps the valve from dropping into the cylinder. Also can be done with compressed air.  make up a fitting that threads into the plug hole with a male air end on it.  Or remove the head and use a valve spring compresser tool.  You'll need a new head gasket, and might as well decarbonize the head, and have the valves reground/ lapped.  also a good time to install new seats for unleaded gas.

What's the mileage on the odometer?

Yep,

The gearbox number is visible behind the oil filter, more or less.  Resto freaks prefer to keep the car original and I don't blame them.  But many folk over the decades have opted for a later model gearbox because they are slightly easier to stir in regard to first or reverse. Original three synchro boxes like 22G333 are quite valuable in your home country BTW but then again, so is your car!

If you can't find oil leaks beneath your car that might bake on the exhaust, black smoke often means too much oil is headed out the exhaust pipe.  Like the Werewolf probably suspects, it could be getting by the valve guides and seals.  It could be the piston rings can no longer hold it back.  A good (old) mechanic of British cars can help you ascertain what's what.

Another question for sake of authenticity and a handy answer to know in the course of a rebuild; which cylinder head is on top of that motor?  Are you comfortable taking off the valve cover to look underneath?  If so, there are castings numbers that tell the story.  Your car came with a AEG163 head, the rarest and coolest cylinder head ever.  And they often crack  But if it's still there and not cracked?  You are a lucky man, hang onto it.  Few engine builders will want you to keep using it but that's another story.

VPR

Wow! thanks so much for the info. Joe sounds perfect and he has a decent website with cost breakdowns, oh and he's pretty local to me, bonus. The smoke is grey/black when you accelerate hard. The tranny is original I think, is the number located on the sump? Again, I really appreciate the advice. This car was always a dream to have for me so it'll be worth it in the end.

waverider..  go local.. and good machine/ engine shop can redo the head and engine if needed. welcome to ship to me and you know my prices. BUT why spend the money on the shipping..??   I would NEVER use Mini Comp , ect..due to PRICE.. as engine built is easy $10 large from these guys  and $20k from one of them..   later bc  ps.. dido on Joe Curto..  I had forgot about him.. he is the BEST on rebuilding carbs..