Taking this home today
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"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
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It has aftermarket intake manifold and DUAL SU carburetor for better breathing.
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and yes.... they look cool... lol
Great response at the low end
I imagine your exhaust is not stock as the factory intake/exhaust manifold will not accept twins..... maybe previous owner cut off the intake portion
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
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Saying that twin 1 1/4" SUs are inferior or superior to a single 1 1/2" SU pretty much implies that you have a rolling road dyno and nearly endless hours to sort things out one way or the other.
I'll start the debate off:
TWIN CARBS LOOK BETTER.
Since no one can form a decent argument against that, I'll let you get yourself copies of Vizard's two books, How to Modify Your Mini and Tuning BL's A series Engine, and you can learn about all of the factors that influence performance.
Full disclosure: As I write this at a table in a coffee shop I am looking out at the mini I drove here, which has a very strong 998 breathing through a single 1 1/2" SU. It is awesome, and what you have is also awesome.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Saying that twin 1 1/4" SUs are inferior or superior to a single 1 1/2" SU pretty much implies that you have a rolling road dyno and nearly endless hours to sort things out one way or the other.
I'll start the debate off:
TWIN CARBS LOOK BETTER.
Since no one can form a decent argument against that, I'll let you get yourself copies of Vizard's two books, How to Modify Your Mini and Tuning BL's A series Engine, and you can learn about all of the factors that influence performance.
Full disclosure: As I write this at a table in a coffee shop I am looking out at the mini I drove here, which has a very strong 998 breathing through a single 1 1/2" SU. It is awesome, and what you have is also awesome.
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Saying that twin 1 1/4" SUs are inferior or superior to a single 1 1/2" SU pretty much implies that you have a rolling road dyno and nearly endless hours to sort things out one way or the other.
I'll start the debate off:
TWIN CARBS LOOK BETTER.
Since no one can form a decent argument against that, I'll let you get yourself copies of Vizard's two books, How to Modify Your Mini and Tuning BL's A series Engine, and you can learn about all of the factors that influence performance.
Full disclosure: As I write this at a table in a coffee shop I am looking out at the mini I drove here, which has a very strong 998 breathing through a single 1 1/2" SU. It is awesome, and what you have is also awesome.
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If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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I'm guessing the arrow means pointing that way.
If it's a Jap spec car and it's recently arrived etc., you need to swap out your headlights
Again, it doesn't get dark until almost 9pm this time of year, and I don't plan on being out at night with it, but I will work on getting them changed asap.
Appreciate everyones help.
Next question:
Does anyone know if the 90 Japanese spec came with twin carbs? Mine has them and I'm having a hard time finding any info on what would have been stock. I found this info based on my engine number:
Engine number
99HE22 114894
- 998 A+ block with center locating tang in main cap
- Dished pistons with press fit wrist pin, lead-free
- 998cc
I've done a little research on whether or not twin carbs are an improvement over the single carb on this engine, and the reviews seem mixed.
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I'm guessing the arrow means pointing that way.
If it's a Jap spec car and it's recently arrived etc., you need to swap out your headlights
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
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That is not what you want.
You want lamps that say DOT.
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https://goo.gl/photos/3QK4NxyFt82ZNmZo8
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//www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html
The tech articles on the same site are also worth reading, especially this one on how to easily turn your boring old side markers into double-duty turn signal flashers.
//www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/markerflash/markerflash.html
Like This
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If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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I have them on my own Japanese Market car, which powers the lights via relays and has a large alternator. The car has excellent light output exactly where it is needed.
note the DOT on lights for North America.
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Google headlight cutoff line and look at the pictures. You will see exactly what to look for. Most of the ones I found were for LHD USA requirements. They are lower on the left and move up on the right. My original headlights said "for left hand drive" on the glass. You might be able to just look and see without any extra work.
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Turn on you headlamps on low beam. Observe where the 'hot" spot is on each - if you can't see separate hot spots, move closer to the wall. Observe the shape of the light pattern. Modern headlamps generally provide an illumination pattern with a horizontal top that angles up to one side. Headlamps for right-hand roads angle up to the right, providing roadside illumination. If yours don't you need to replace them.
Your headlamps should be aimed so that the farther back from the wall you go, the top of the horizontal part of the beam should gradually be lower on the wall. The vertical central axis should also not move or drift very slightly to the right.
Switch from low beam to high beam. The high beam hot spot should be slightly higher and to the left than the low beam spot. This should give better straight-ahead illumination. If it moves up and o the right, you need to change them. The high beam illumination should be pretty much horizontal.
Or you can take it to a shop for proper alignment.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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Also....yours will have the "pilot" light...or park light right inside the headlight ( just below the main bulb )
I replaced my Jap headlights with the ones offered on this site for right hand traffic
//www.minimania.com/part/13H3471A/Classic-Austin-Mini-Sealed-Beam-7-Headlamp-Headlight-With-Pilot-Light
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
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