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 Posted: May 13, 2017 07:05PM
Total posts: 58
Last post: Aug 8, 2017
Member since:Jul 25, 2016
Pistons were removed and ring clearances checked in the bore. All cylinders checked out at 0.006" so all is good. I have ordered new cam followers, rings (5 ring sets!), mains, con-rod bearings and cam bearings, timing chain, head studs, clutch, stem seals and gasket sets  along with a ton of other bits ready for reassembly after I have honed the bores. After rebuilding a Jag, this stuff is a lot less painful and expensive!

A good day was spent cleaning all painted parts ready for their coat of Morris Green. I am looking forward to re-assembly

 Posted: May 7, 2017 03:43AM
Total posts: 3490
Last post: Sep 22, 2017
Member since:Oct 8, 2011
Once you remove a piston from it's bore the rings will never seal in that bore again. Hone bores and install new rings. Replace tappets as well check face of tappets for pitting. If any look real hard at the cam. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: May 6, 2017 10:50AM
Total posts: 58
Last post: Aug 8, 2017
Member since:Jul 25, 2016
In the end, I threw a strap over my 4 post lift and attached each end to a crankshaft end. Then my bride pushed the button on command to lift in stages while I steadied the engine. It separated cleanly and vertically with the weight of the transmission doing the work. I pulled the dolly/transmission out of the way then lowered the engine to another dolly. Easy, peasy.
I have removed the engine studs and inverted the engine ready to check bearings. I did forget to remove the tappets which consequently dropped out onto my workbench, so no chance of putting them back into the same holes they came out of. I do not plan to remove the crankshaft if the half main bearing shells look good though I will remove the con rod/piston assemblies to check rings.
Any comments on whether replacing rings as a matter of course is worth it? Bore measurements (+020") show them all .004" out of spec


 Posted: May 5, 2017 05:22PM
Total posts: 100
Last post: Jun 28, 2017
Member since:Apr 6, 1999
Unless the engine is being stripped as well it is bad idea to flip the power unit to remove the trans as all the residual oil and crud in the gearbox case will run into the inverted engine (getting on cam & lifters and into the bores), and mini transmission will have fair amount of oil even if fully drained.
Also seems odd to want trans to fall off engine, no reason to and it may get wedged and damage the usual 2 small studs and dowels used on the back of the block.  If a hoist was used to remove the unit from the car it can also be used to lift the block off the trans. After carefully removing flywheel housing (it is located on two dowels so it needs to come off evenly) and removing the pan rail bolts/nuts a prybar can be used with minimal force between the rear main cap and the area above the idler bearing of the trans case to break the seal of the stuck gaskets.  If sticking also in the front of the case the bar can again be lightly used between the front pulley and the front motor mount bracket to free. The two dowels used to align the block and trans could also stick and a little wiggle may be needed as the block is lifted from the trans with the hoist.  No drama, no broken parts.

No special tools for for removal of trans and flywheel housing but feeler blade set will be needed for reassembly.  A mainseal installer tool, though not mandatory, will make that part of the job much easier. 

 Posted: May 4, 2017 07:56PM
Total posts: 6320
Last post: Sep 23, 2017
Member since:Feb 26, 1999
I"ll add that there's a ring of bolts from the bottom around the case, but there's a nut I think on the top side, back of the block. 

It's been so long, but I don't think I made this up. 

When you have it apart, take the gears out of the box, (impact gun works great here to open it up)  When the gears are out, you'll only then be able to clean the inside bottom of the gearbox.

Put a center oil pickup in on reassembly.

 Posted: May 4, 2017 06:01PM
Total posts: 58
Last post: Aug 8, 2017
Member since:Jul 25, 2016
...nobody mentioned removing the distributor....but I will LOL

 Posted: May 4, 2017 01:13PM
Total posts: 1369
Last post: Sep 9, 2017
Member since:Oct 18, 2011
"...6.  The chair of sturdy thing will catch the gearbox before it drops very far..."

Turn the whole lot upside down (you have drained the oil

Its a whole lot easier (and safer) to lift the box off the upturned block.

I also remove the dipstick tube from the block first (assuming an A series).  Most cars will have the plastic version which is easily snapped off when moving the gearbox.

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: May 4, 2017 12:21PM
Total posts: 58
Last post: Aug 8, 2017
Member since:Jul 25, 2016
Velopackrat you are the man...just what I needed. I have the unit standing on a furniture dolly but no sweat, I have lots of straps and a  four post lift.
Does the Velo in your username refer to Velocette by any chance?

 Posted: May 4, 2017 11:39AM
Total posts: 224
Last post: Aug 8, 2017
Member since:Jun 26, 2012
I'll dive in.  I never object if experts overrule me.  Chime in, guys.

You've done the hard part!  Flywheels can be incredibly tenacious bastards to remove.  

1. Behind them, remove all the bolts holding the clutch housing in place, then tap it off with a soft mallet.  Gasket usually gets destroyed. 1.5.  Keep chunks of it because the thickness of the gasket is important for later.
2.  Slide the primary gear off the crank nose if it didn't come off with the cover.  Slide off idler gear too.
3.  Is your engine in an engine stand off the floor?  If so, put a chair or something sturdy under the gearbox with a few inches of clearance.
4.  Remove all the 1/4-28 (usually) bolts that mate the box to the block.  You might leave a middle one in on each side...
5.  Because now you can tap on the gearbox flange and it will separate from the block. 
6.  The chair of sturdy thing will catch the gearbox before it drops very far.
7.  Oh, and I forgot.  You drained the oil before you got started, right?

 Posted: May 4, 2017 11:08AM
Total posts: 58
Last post: Aug 8, 2017
Member since:Jul 25, 2016
 I managed to get the flywheel/clutch assembly off the crankshaft. Even with the proper puller and a 3 foot long socket bar it was a real struggle.
My question relates to separation of the engine from gearbox. The manual refers to a couple of special tools to do this. Are they strictly necessary or can I McGyver my way through it? Anything particular I need to look out for when dismantling or reassembling?