Hi to all, and everybody is good.
The majority of gear box leaks are due to perished or dehydrated gates or seals. For this reason the use of an oil stop leak could save an expensive visit to the repair garage. By adding an oil stop leak like OIL-FIX to your gear oil you will be able to determine if the problem is a dehydrated seal or gasket.

I got the new seals in and appears not to be leaking at this point, the bronze bushings felt tight and did not appear to be worn.  Hope it works out

I'm impressed that you (Bikewiz) were able to access all of the differential housing hardware on the "pumpkin" portion of the differential housing with the engine still in the car, including the four 3/8" UNC nuts, and the three 5/16" nuts (sometimes bolts) as well as not develop any leaks from the upper or lower diff case gasket areas that may occur from loosening those joints that are bathed in oil and without much difficulty.

The output flange gaskets are of varying thicknesses and to ensure proper diff bearing preload one needs to be able to slide the differential and bearings to one side while those fasteners are loose, install the one side outputflange, retighten those differential housing fasteners, and then shim the other side.

If someone just pulls off the output flange covers and left the differential fasteners tight, the don't really shim anything properly at all. They just stuck some shims in to satisfy the spacing on the one side with just blind guesswork on the non-shim side that it is even making contact or causing preload.

For me, I'd take my chances with just replacing the round output rubber seals for under $5 each first than spending at least an extra 90minutes or so on my back under the car with those other fasteners, gaskets, feeler gauges, and buying the correct number of shims.

I found in my case replacing the outer seal will only work for a short while. If the bronze bushing is worn, only the seal supports the load and wears pretty quickly and will start to leak again. A crude but somewhat effective test to check for wear is to grab the joint and try and move it up and down. Replacing and shimming the diff covers (AKA output flange cover) can be done with the engine in the car and isn't that difficult (the shimming part) it's easiest to buy new diff covers instead of trying to press in new bushes as you'll most likely need to hone the bushing once it's pressed in. You'll also need the seals, gaskets, and shims of varying thicknesses to get the proper bearing preload. I believe the part number for your type is 22G420.

Guessworks in the UK has a good guide for doing it, I did it using his guide and was successful on my first attempt, no leaks for 5k or so.
//www.guess-works.com/Tech/Rebuild/

Hi,

thanks for information got it a part awaiting shipment of my parts now thrn will get it back together

i'm assuming that you have either Hardy Spicer or Yoke style inner cv joints...

The short answer is "Yes, undo the nut or bolt that is in the center of the transmission output shaft and then pull / pry out that inner CV holder off of the splined stub that comes out of the transmission"  But first you want to drain all of your engine oil.

No need to unbolt the 5 bolts on the aluminum output flange that contains the round rubber output shaft seal. Not super likely that paper gasket is the one that is leaking and it's just a can of worms if you undo it as the replacement paper gasket may be thicker than the original and it could impact your differential bearing preload. So again, just leave those 5 bolts alone. Just pry the rubber seal out with a screwdriver a little at a time if needed as you work around it and then tap a new one in as squarely as possible wither with a rubber mallet, screwdriver handle, socket with a hammer or whatever. Flush with the edge of that aluminum cover or just a tiny bit below is fine..

i have developed a gear box leak on driver side a big leak how do you fix it, i have removed the spindle and u joint assemble the shaft is bolted onto gear box do i just remove nut and prior out and then unbolt side cover ?   Videos i have seen online show different type of assembly just pops into gear box

Guidance please