× 1-800-946-2642 Home My Account Social / Forum Articles Contact My Cart
Shop Now
Select Your Car Type Sale Items Clearance Items New Items
   Forum Width:     Forum Type: 

 Posted: Nov 3, 2020 02:09PM
Total posts: 36
Last post: Sep 20, 2023
Member since:Aug 19, 2019
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Thank you, the engine steady arm removal did the trick.

 Posted: Nov 3, 2020 04:53AM
Total posts: 1007
Last post: Jul 19, 2022
Member since:Jul 24, 2014
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
You could remove the top engine steady link to get a little more room by pulling the engine forward.

 Posted: Nov 2, 2020 07:59PM
Total posts: 36
Last post: Sep 20, 2023
Member since:Aug 19, 2019
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Hi everyone, the jet to the float bowl is disconnect, I try to remove the carbs. but having a hard time removing the #2 carb. because the clutch master cylinder is in the way, I try to removing the float bowl but no room to for screwdriver, would have another way? The picture show what's I'm talking about. Thank you

 Posted: Oct 27, 2020 01:05PM
Total posts: 8382
Last post: Jan 13, 2022
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Did you check for wear?

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Oct 25, 2020 06:21PM
Total posts: 36
Last post: Sep 20, 2023
Member since:Aug 19, 2019
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
I set both carbs. back to basic, screw both jets all the way up till flush, then, turn them both down 12 flats, now I try to synch after the engine is warm them with the Uni-Sync. The #1 carb would kill the engine and the other would give me a reading. When I try to check the piston on the #1 carb. I would need to lift about 1/2" to get a reaction and the #2 has no reaction at all. Have I miss something?

Thank You, Thai

 Posted: Oct 22, 2020 08:56PM
 Edited:  Oct 22, 2020 09:11PM
Total posts: 36
Last post: Sep 20, 2023
Member since:Aug 19, 2019
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
I check the fuel supple lines and founded that one that goes to the #2 carb. pot was block and the plastic fuel filter was over tighten. I did the a drop test on the pods and the piston was switch. I ordered the Uni-Synch and oil and should be here on Saturday. I hope that's the only issue.

I hope that's the only issue, Thank you for time and advice

 Posted: Oct 20, 2020 11:03PM
Total posts: 8382
Last post: Jan 13, 2022
Member since:Feb 7, 2006
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
I haven't looked at the video but if you have twin 1.25" carbs you could have throttle shaft wear causing an air leak.
To check for a leak you can spray starting fluid around the shaft area and if the idle rises you have a leak, you can also used a few feet of fuel hose and listen with your ear you will hear a hissing noise If a leak is present.
If you figure you have a leak you can disconnect the return springs and pull up and push down on the linkage if you have movement It is time for a rebuild of the carbs.
Before you set up carbs you need to make sure everything else is correct to spec, timing, points, maximum distributor advance, vacuum advance, valve clearance, spark plug gaps.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Oct 20, 2020 06:15AM
Total posts: 332
Last post: Mar 25, 2024
Member since:Jan 22, 2018
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
When you rev the motor I can hear the hesitation which is caused by the mixture leaning out on the right carb. The right carb leaning out that much, compared to the left one that seems OK, might indicate the needle (in the right carb) is completely different from the needle in the left carb. You should probably check that the needles are the same. The needle number is stamped on the end where it mounts into the piston.

 Posted: Oct 19, 2020 01:38PM
Total posts: 36
Last post: Sep 20, 2023
Member since:Aug 19, 2019
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Hey thank for your time, so is normal for the other carb. not to react when is lift? I lift the other about 1/2" before it die. Did you hear the motor when I rev. the cable? Thank

 Posted: Oct 19, 2020 12:46PM
 Edited:  Oct 19, 2020 12:50PM
Total posts: 332
Last post: Mar 25, 2024
Member since:Jan 22, 2018
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
The motor stalls when you lift the piston in the right carb in the video. That means the mixture is too lean. You need to turn the jet nut at the bottom of the carb out to richen the mixture. Nothing much seems to happen with the left carb in the video, so the mixture there is OK. 

It seems like there is a lot of clattering noise coming from your motor. Are the valve tappet clearances set right?

BTW did you balance the air flow in the carbs.

 Posted: Oct 19, 2020 11:08AM
Total posts: 36
Last post: Sep 20, 2023
Member since:Aug 19, 2019
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
The plugs are BP6ES and are gape 0.28 as set from the shop. Their no respond when is raise, that's what I don't understand. Maybe once you see the video, hopefully you'll know. The link is https:/youtu.be/ep6HcjShnkU

Thank

 Posted: Oct 19, 2020 07:50AM
 Edited:  Oct 19, 2020 08:02AM
Total posts: 332
Last post: Mar 25, 2024
Member since:Jan 22, 2018
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
What plugs are you using. If you don't need the resistor type for a radio don't use them. I use BP6ES. I couldn't find your video, post a link. You're only supposed to raise the pistons about 1/8", not all the way or 1/2 way. Can you be more specific on what you are doing.

 Posted: Oct 18, 2020 08:25PM
Total posts: 36
Last post: Sep 20, 2023
Member since:Aug 19, 2019
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Hello everybody, the question is when checking if is running rich or lean, but when I raise one of them all the way up nothing happen with or with the vacuum install and the other would need to about 1/2 an inch. before it would stall. I have a video on Youtube under "67 Mini rough idle. If you take the time to view and is bad or not clear, I'll try to make another one or explain to as best I can.

P.S. the reason I didn't get back to the update with the '' Starting Up Problem" is because I took it to a shop and got the electrical problem solved and wouldn't go back again. I drove it for two months and ran great, all I did was changed the radiator fluid when it start running rough and I think all I have to do was check the choke cable because it might got stuck but it too late.

Thank you for taking the time for reading this and I hope you would view the You Tube under 67 Mini Rough idle. And Thank again Thai