Ignition coil failure
Created by: benino
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Aug 15, 2020 04:46AM | tvander | |
Aug 14, 2020 12:13PM | croc7 | |
Aug 14, 2020 10:04AM | benino | |
Aug 14, 2020 10:02AM | benino | Edited: Aug 14, 2020 10:07AM |
Aug 14, 2020 10:00AM | benino | Edited: Aug 14, 2020 10:06AM |
Aug 14, 2020 06:55AM | Dan Moffet | |
Aug 13, 2020 05:51PM | tvander | |
Aug 13, 2020 05:23PM | 1963SV2 | |
Aug 12, 2020 03:31PM | Kermy | |
Aug 12, 2020 12:50PM | benino | Edited: Aug 12, 2020 01:04PM |
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I have read that if the coil is mounted straight up, it can cause it to go bad. Something about the oil in it cooling it. With it mounted horizontal, you should be ok unless over time the mounting causes issues. Sounds like it's fixed and I would buy a new coil for next time and not worry about it.
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Go with the Bosch Blue coil (made in Brazil), they're 3.0 ohm, epoxy filled and indestructible.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1963SV2
I think you'll find the fault is more likely something to do with the distributor.
The tach sensor is upstream from the coil so its signal is independent from the coil.
Cheers, Ian
The tach sensor is upstream from the coil so its signal is independent from the coil.
Cheers, Ian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Moffet
I've had a 123 in my Mini since ???? (long time). If i recall correctly, the 123 is programmed to cut current to the coil (something like 30 seconds??) if ignition is turned on and the engine isn't running.
Are you by chance using a non-ballast coil on a ballasted ignition system, or vice-versa? A ballasted ignition system runs on 9 volts (+/-} except when cranking the engine, whereupon the system bypasses the ballast resistor and provides 12V to assist starting.
Are you by chance using a non-ballast coil on a ballasted ignition system, or vice-versa? A ballasted ignition system runs on 9 volts (+/-} except when cranking the engine, whereupon the system bypasses the ballast resistor and provides 12V to assist starting.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvander
How do you have the coil mounted? Up, down, horizontal?
My coil is mounted horizontal. Is there a difference in their operation or longevity depending on how they are mounted?
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I've had a 123 in my Mini since ???? (long time). If i recall correctly, the 123 is programmed to cut current to the coil (something like 30 seconds??) if ignition is turned on and the engine isn't running.
Are you by chance using a non-ballast coil on a ballasted ignition system, or vice-versa? A ballasted ignition system runs on 9 volts (+/-} except when cranking the engine, whereupon the system bypasses the ballast resistor and provides 12V to assist starting.
Are you by chance using a non-ballast coil on a ballasted ignition system, or vice-versa? A ballasted ignition system runs on 9 volts (+/-} except when cranking the engine, whereupon the system bypasses the ballast resistor and provides 12V to assist starting.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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How do you have the coil mounted? Up, down, horizontal?
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I think you'll find the fault is more likely something to do with the distributor.
The tach sensor is upstream from the coil so its signal is independent from the coil.
Cheers, Ian
The tach sensor is upstream from the coil so its signal is independent from the coil.
Cheers, Ian
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I've had a 123 in my Traveller since 2009 without any issues. I have no experience with the Pertronix coil but I've used Ignitors many times without issues, as long as one didn't leave the ignition on too long without turning over the motor. You may have encountered some bad luck, ass they say " s--t happens". The temperature side of 2 Smiths magnolia dual gauges failed on my Traveller in short order. I'm working on the 3rd gauge which has been OK for a few years ... touch wood.
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I have a 123ignition distributor.
and a PerTronix 40511 Flame-Thrower 40,000 Volt 3.0 ohm Coil.
I've had two coils fail on my in the last 4 years. I'm wondering if there is a known issue with either of these devices or if there is a different coil I should be using.
When the coil fails I start seeing bouncing in my tachometer and then at higher rpm i get pretty bad misfiring. The coil doesn't feel hot or anything.
and a PerTronix 40511 Flame-Thrower 40,000 Volt 3.0 ohm Coil.
I've had two coils fail on my in the last 4 years. I'm wondering if there is a known issue with either of these devices or if there is a different coil I should be using.
When the coil fails I start seeing bouncing in my tachometer and then at higher rpm i get pretty bad misfiring. The coil doesn't feel hot or anything.