Created by: | Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
| May 25, 2020 06:09AM | Kermy | |
| May 24, 2020 06:07PM | WLalle |
Posted:
May 25, 2020
06:09AM
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Total posts: 333
Last post: Apr 13, 2024 Member since:Jan 22, 2018
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Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
For what I call 'fatty' MINIs like yours, you might get better and more answers on the North American Motoring site.
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Total posts: 1
Last post: May 24, 2020 Member since:May 24, 2020
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Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Hey all. Long time reader, first post and in dire need of your help. I have a fuel system that has me chasing my tail and about to put me in the poor house. The culprit is a 2006 R53, manual, hatch with 195k miles. Have owned her 5-6 years, daily driver and all maintenance performed by myself. I pay very close attention on how she performs and sounds. Only mods are an Alta 17% pulley and VIP air box. Heare the facts as they’ve happened. It’s a long read but please understand that I’m mechanically inclined but about to go insane.
Went to leave work and she cranked but didn’t start. F37 fuse blown. Replaced it and she fired right up. Made a couple stops on the way home with no problems. The next morning crank no start again. Blown F37. Replaced and blows, 3 fuses later I locate a new Delphi fuel pump across town. Get home, install the new pump, replace F37. A few cranks and she starts and idles fine but gauge read empty. Pull the pump and find that one of the connectors wasn’t making contact. Pull wire, correct issue reinstall and gauge shows 1/3 tank. That lasted all of 1 day except now the fuse stops blowing. Cranks but won’t start. After searching the web for a possible cause, I order a new Vaico fuel filter and 2 Tyco relays for R1 & R3 and have them shipped overnight.
During my searching I see a post about possible bad gas affecting another Mini owner. As it turns out, I filled up the day before this nightmare began from a newly opened gas station. Ok, I think their system wasn’t fully clean or whatever which I attribute to the problem, bad gas. So I go buy 3 5 gallon gas cans, pull F37, crank it to depressurize the system and pull the fuel pump and begin using a siphon pump to drain the tank. Pump side is bone dry so I move over to the filter side and remove as much as I can without removing the filter housing.
The filter and relays arrive and I install them without too much trouble or cussing. Install the pump and put in a couple gallons at the filler neck. Turn key 2 clicks and don’t hear pump initiate. Fuse not blown so I think wtf. Open up pump and see it didn’t prime (duh) so I figure I did something wrong installing the filter. Disconnect the pump but leave it in place and open up the filter housing. After a few choice words, I was able to get to lid off the housing and notice that side of tank was still empty. I removed the filter housing. Inspected it, it appeared good. I read about the problems with Vaico o-rings so I replaced the 2 smaller ones with the old ones and made sure that the thin o-ring wasn’t rolled. Applied light amount of vasoline to lid o-ring and did a couple test fits. Much easier and it stayed in place. Siphoned in enough gas so the blue plastic thingie was submerged. Buttoned both sides up, crank no start, fuse not blown. Open filter housing and filter still dry so I use a turkey baster and add about an inch of fuel. Also added fuel to inside of pump. Crank, no start. Pulled the new pump and put the old one back in after all, what’s the worst that could happen, right? Still nothing so I put the new pump in AGAIN. Insanity has started setting in.
I found the article about crank, no start but F37 not blowing which could be the fuel pump relay soldered inside the fuse box to be the problem. I pulled the fuse box out, disassembled it and inspected for any signs of scorch, shorts or burnt smell. It appeared fine. Blew it out with canned air, put it all back together and back in the car. Still nothing. Fuse didn’t blow and pump didn’t initiate. So I find a used fuse box with a 90 day guarantee and have it shipped overnight. Because I’m not very knowledgeable on electricity or diagnosing auto electrical problems I start watching a gazillion videos about how to go about it. To rule out the battery, I go buy a new one and a decent multimeter and a few other testing items. Rewatch videos, ok cool, I can do this. I remove drivers seat, both passenger backrests and all the plastic trim on drivers side. I searched everywhere for a bad connection, frayed wire...hell anything at this point. I do a couple continuity tests, put drivers seat in to avoid airbag fault. 12.44v at the pump connector. No shorts on the white/blue + wire. I read article about performing the “Fonzie” to the bottom of the tank while cranking so I get someone to crank while I beat on the bottom of the tank. Still no start BUT F37 blew this time. I convince myself that the new fuse box will get me back on the road. In the meantime, I began ultra detailing the dash and inside the car. By this time it’s probably 10pm. I’m drunk and decide to wash the car because I know...I just know my troubles will be over soon and I want my baby spotless. Her name is Elizabeth by the way.
The next morning I read article after article for any clue. It HAS to be the fuse box. I’m mentally doing my happy dance at this point. I prep the car. Double and triple check everything. I pull the spark plugs, inspect them, gently clean with a brass bristle brush, fresh antiseize. All 4 appear good. Clean terminals on coil pack with brush, spray electrical cleaner inside wires. Check for spark. All systems go. The part arrives, I check all the fuses to be good, correct size and location. Again I inspect all connections. Battery still over 12v. Pump connector still over 12v.
New fuse box installed, fingers crossed. Click key twice and fuel pump initiates. I do this 3 times. Crank, no start, F37 not blown. she almost tried to start once but went back to plain cranking. Check for codes and P0500 appears. Vehicle speed sensor A. Car hasn’t moved in days. Clear the code. Crank, prime no start. I go buy fuel pressure test kit. Pull intercooler, hook it up, get a little spray and try to crank. Zero pressure. MOTHERF****R!!!
I searched articles about filter change no start. Couple people mention tank needs 1/2 to 3/4 fuel to work so I go get 10 gallons of gas and add just over half a tank. Still no fuel pressure on 2 clicks. Install old pump again, same results. Put new pump back in, nothing. Reinstalled intercooler. Crank, pump initiates, no start. Ok, add more fuel to just over 3/4 tank. Click twice, pump doesn’t initiate now, fuse not blown. Siphon fuel down to half tank, pump still doesn’t initiate, fuse not blown. Disconnected battery to see it will reset, nothing. Tried banging on top of pump during crank and won’t initiate.
Watched video about step by step diagnosing problems on a 2012 Cooper. The tach moves when cranking (I replaced CAS less than a year ago) so scratch that off the list. Relays clicking. F37 not blowing, battery is new, pump is new, filter is new. Pump not initiating now after filling from half to 3/4 tank. Pump connector still sending over 12v on crank.
Please, I love this car and have never ever ever had so many problems fixing something so simple.
Went to leave work and she cranked but didn’t start. F37 fuse blown. Replaced it and she fired right up. Made a couple stops on the way home with no problems. The next morning crank no start again. Blown F37. Replaced and blows, 3 fuses later I locate a new Delphi fuel pump across town. Get home, install the new pump, replace F37. A few cranks and she starts and idles fine but gauge read empty. Pull the pump and find that one of the connectors wasn’t making contact. Pull wire, correct issue reinstall and gauge shows 1/3 tank. That lasted all of 1 day except now the fuse stops blowing. Cranks but won’t start. After searching the web for a possible cause, I order a new Vaico fuel filter and 2 Tyco relays for R1 & R3 and have them shipped overnight.
During my searching I see a post about possible bad gas affecting another Mini owner. As it turns out, I filled up the day before this nightmare began from a newly opened gas station. Ok, I think their system wasn’t fully clean or whatever which I attribute to the problem, bad gas. So I go buy 3 5 gallon gas cans, pull F37, crank it to depressurize the system and pull the fuel pump and begin using a siphon pump to drain the tank. Pump side is bone dry so I move over to the filter side and remove as much as I can without removing the filter housing.
The filter and relays arrive and I install them without too much trouble or cussing. Install the pump and put in a couple gallons at the filler neck. Turn key 2 clicks and don’t hear pump initiate. Fuse not blown so I think wtf. Open up pump and see it didn’t prime (duh) so I figure I did something wrong installing the filter. Disconnect the pump but leave it in place and open up the filter housing. After a few choice words, I was able to get to lid off the housing and notice that side of tank was still empty. I removed the filter housing. Inspected it, it appeared good. I read about the problems with Vaico o-rings so I replaced the 2 smaller ones with the old ones and made sure that the thin o-ring wasn’t rolled. Applied light amount of vasoline to lid o-ring and did a couple test fits. Much easier and it stayed in place. Siphoned in enough gas so the blue plastic thingie was submerged. Buttoned both sides up, crank no start, fuse not blown. Open filter housing and filter still dry so I use a turkey baster and add about an inch of fuel. Also added fuel to inside of pump. Crank, no start. Pulled the new pump and put the old one back in after all, what’s the worst that could happen, right? Still nothing so I put the new pump in AGAIN. Insanity has started setting in.
I found the article about crank, no start but F37 not blowing which could be the fuel pump relay soldered inside the fuse box to be the problem. I pulled the fuse box out, disassembled it and inspected for any signs of scorch, shorts or burnt smell. It appeared fine. Blew it out with canned air, put it all back together and back in the car. Still nothing. Fuse didn’t blow and pump didn’t initiate. So I find a used fuse box with a 90 day guarantee and have it shipped overnight. Because I’m not very knowledgeable on electricity or diagnosing auto electrical problems I start watching a gazillion videos about how to go about it. To rule out the battery, I go buy a new one and a decent multimeter and a few other testing items. Rewatch videos, ok cool, I can do this. I remove drivers seat, both passenger backrests and all the plastic trim on drivers side. I searched everywhere for a bad connection, frayed wire...hell anything at this point. I do a couple continuity tests, put drivers seat in to avoid airbag fault. 12.44v at the pump connector. No shorts on the white/blue + wire. I read article about performing the “Fonzie” to the bottom of the tank while cranking so I get someone to crank while I beat on the bottom of the tank. Still no start BUT F37 blew this time. I convince myself that the new fuse box will get me back on the road. In the meantime, I began ultra detailing the dash and inside the car. By this time it’s probably 10pm. I’m drunk and decide to wash the car because I know...I just know my troubles will be over soon and I want my baby spotless. Her name is Elizabeth by the way.
The next morning I read article after article for any clue. It HAS to be the fuse box. I’m mentally doing my happy dance at this point. I prep the car. Double and triple check everything. I pull the spark plugs, inspect them, gently clean with a brass bristle brush, fresh antiseize. All 4 appear good. Clean terminals on coil pack with brush, spray electrical cleaner inside wires. Check for spark. All systems go. The part arrives, I check all the fuses to be good, correct size and location. Again I inspect all connections. Battery still over 12v. Pump connector still over 12v.
New fuse box installed, fingers crossed. Click key twice and fuel pump initiates. I do this 3 times. Crank, no start, F37 not blown. she almost tried to start once but went back to plain cranking. Check for codes and P0500 appears. Vehicle speed sensor A. Car hasn’t moved in days. Clear the code. Crank, prime no start. I go buy fuel pressure test kit. Pull intercooler, hook it up, get a little spray and try to crank. Zero pressure. MOTHERF****R!!!
I searched articles about filter change no start. Couple people mention tank needs 1/2 to 3/4 fuel to work so I go get 10 gallons of gas and add just over half a tank. Still no fuel pressure on 2 clicks. Install old pump again, same results. Put new pump back in, nothing. Reinstalled intercooler. Crank, pump initiates, no start. Ok, add more fuel to just over 3/4 tank. Click twice, pump doesn’t initiate now, fuse not blown. Siphon fuel down to half tank, pump still doesn’t initiate, fuse not blown. Disconnected battery to see it will reset, nothing. Tried banging on top of pump during crank and won’t initiate.
Watched video about step by step diagnosing problems on a 2012 Cooper. The tach moves when cranking (I replaced CAS less than a year ago) so scratch that off the list. Relays clicking. F37 not blowing, battery is new, pump is new, filter is new. Pump not initiating now after filling from half to 3/4 tank. Pump connector still sending over 12v on crank.
Please, I love this car and have never ever ever had so many problems fixing something so simple.
What am I missing??
