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 Posted: May 3, 2020 02:35PM
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Thanks everyone for all your help, I discovered what the problem was.

I stupidly didn't bolt the diaphragm on tight enough and it was making contact with the clutch cover.

So now all is well, it cranks just fine.

Phil

 Posted: May 3, 2020 10:44AM
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I once pulled an engine I'd rebuilt BACK OUT and split it to check if I'd done something wrong with the oil pickup tube or left the o-ring out of the block/trans "sandwich". Nope. All was good, done correctly.

Still no oil pressure when cranking with plugs out and even when I'd backfilled the oil pump...

Turned out to be a weak starter and it wasn't able to crank fast enough. Once I'd replaced the starter (and used a fresh battery to boot!) it cranked over splendidly and got pressure near immediately.

My feelings for myself that day finally caught up to what those around me had long known...

Idiot!

 Posted: May 2, 2020 09:17PM
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Yes it was able to turn freely with the flywheel and clutch off. it started moving freely as soon as the clutch cover was removed.
 
 
I did take the spark plugs out and it is turning a lot faster. So the plan now is to crank it with the plugs out until I get some oil pressure and then maybe see if I can get it to fire.

 Posted: May 2, 2020 07:53PM
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did you check if the engine spun over with the clutch and flywheel off?

 Posted: May 2, 2020 04:30PM
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So just an update.

I pulled the flywheel, and checked everything out, and it all looks ok so I put it back together except for the slave cylinder and the arm.

Now it will crank, but very slowly.  And the battery is new, so are all the grounding straps.

 Posted: May 2, 2020 01:30PM
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The clutch arm moves freely when depressing the clutch pedal.

I reused the bolts for both the slave cylinder and the solenoid, so they aren't coming in contact with the flywheel.

I am in the process of pulling the flywheel again, and checking to make sure I didn't install anything incorrectly or backwards.

 Posted: May 2, 2020 01:14PM
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US
Did you use new bolts on the slave bracket? If the bolts are too long they will bottom out against the flywheel and it will not turn. The same for the two raised bolt holes further toward the front of the engine in line with the slave holes that might have the solenoid on it. 

"How can anything bigger be mini?"

 Posted: May 2, 2020 01:05PM
 Edited:  May 2, 2020 01:12PM
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Does the clutch arm move at all when the clutch is depressed or is it locked up solidly? Also I vaguely recall the thrust plate on the clutch diaphragm has a right way facing out and a wrong way, but I could very easily be wrong about this.

 Posted: May 2, 2020 12:13PM
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Sadly no joy.

With both bolts removed and the slave hanging there, there is still no movement.

 Posted: May 2, 2020 11:59AM
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try removing the bolts from the clutch slave cylinder and just let the slave dangle off to the side by the hose or just leave the bolts threaded in 2 turns, put the car in neutral, and try starting WITHOUT depressing the clutch pedal.

Mini are best started in neutral withOUT clutch anyways.

report back

 Posted: May 2, 2020 11:30AM
 Edited:  May 2, 2020 11:31AM
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Hello all,

So I need some help.

I have a 69 OZ 1100 Mini

I just had the engine rebuilt, and have reinstalled it into the car, and am ready to start it up for the first time.  The only problem is that it won't crank.  And I can't turn the engine over by hand.  I think it has something to do with the clutch, and here is why.

The clutch is new, it is pre-verto.  Everything moved by hand just fine, until I put the wok on. Then it wouldn't turn.  So I took the wok off and fiddled with the arm and the thrust release bearing, put the wok back on and everything seemed fine.  I could move the engine by hand again.

So I bled the clutch and tested the pedal a couple times, and now the engine will not crank, and it will not turn over by hand anymore.

So what I have I done wrong with the clutch?

Parts that are new:
Clutch
Diaphram (blue)
thrust release bearing.
Master Cylinder
Clevis Pins

Thanks,

Phil