OK Doug. I see it now. I had spotted a smaller 1/2" +/- hose in one of his pics and thought he was referring to that. I now see the small hose connects to the crankcase vent system, All good!

Thanks “malsal”, et. al.!

now I can see the clamp holds on an extension tube.

this answers my last carburetor question.

It does not attach to anything.
It is there as a clamp to secure the inner tube and is adjustable so you can put it closer to the exhaust manifold in cooler temps for a quicker warm up.
Very inefficient though as we all know cars run better on cool air but if restoring to stock this is correct.

Dan, I think he is referring to the pipe on the filter housing, not the servo connection to the manifold.  I have not seen a Mini with the filter housing pipe but other (non British) cars I have owned route a flexible pleated paper hose from those connectors down to the exhaust manifold to pre-heat the intake air.  Again, I've never seen those on a Mini.

Regarding the 3rd spring, I have also seen a couple of pictures showing the middle spring going up to the air cleaner housing.  Oddly, the factory manual shows the middle spring going from the heat shield bar up to some mystery location on the linkage.  When I got my car a previous owner had hooked the top end of the middle spring to the eyelet of the cotter pin on the throttle trunnion.  That's the way my car's 3rd spring is connected today.

Roger asked about the choke connection.  On my car both the front and the rear carbs have a small brass socket installed in a cantilevered die cast finger on the carb bodies.  The two "fingers" point towards each other.  The cable sheath goes into the brass socket on the left/rear carb.  The cable exits that socket and goes down to the chock linkage arm where it attaches to the choke trunnion.  See the pictures in the link below which show a pair of Spitfire HS2s.  The brass socket I am talking about is visible on the carb to the left.  Look for the top-down picture showing a red circle on the left carb.

Link to Spitfire HS2 carb pictures.

Here is the black downtube on the air cleaner.  It has a screw bracket/clamp.  What does this do?
i assumed it attached to some thing!

If you are referring to the large one coming down there is nothing it connects to. It is there to suck in heated air to prevent carb iceing. 

Uuuumm what air cleaner black tube???

Cheers, Ian

Would it be a vacuum hose connection to provide vacuum for power brakes? They'd probably need manifold vacuum.

thanks guys.  Just what I needed.

I will add the washers to the throttle trunnion.

I believe my 3rd spring is correctly positioned based upon other forums.  Also the air cleaner black tube
placement would not allow for a connection to the heat shield crossbar.

I now see the tube into which the choke cable goes.  I will need to buy the choke cable trunnion AUE0034.

I will also be purchasing new jets and the jet bearing WZX1341.  As stated previously one of the jets is frozen
in the bearing.

only remaining question is what the air cleaner black tube goes to?  It runs between the carbs and points 
back to the engine block.  Anyone have any pictures of this?

Hi Roger, I think you've got it pretty well right... but a few suggestions... 

Yes, the throttle linkage looks OK, however, as Willie suggests, a few washers or a spacer on the outer end of the cable connector would be good to pull the point where the cable connects closer to the arm.  

Photo 4 appears to show a much sharper bend in the cable as it passes the PCV than I would be happy with.  This is probably just a result of the setup not being in the car.  You want as smooth an arc as you can get from the point where the cable exits the firewall to where the outer is secured to the manifold. ...And then as straight a shot from here to where the inner is attached to the carb link.

My links have the nuts uppermost (otherwise they're a b^&%er to get at).

I think the spacers go on the carb side of (i.e. above) the shield.  If you try the other way 'round the shield won't clear the bottom of the float bowls. 

Agree, see the suggestion re spacer/washers..

If you look at your photo #3, just the right of the screw that holds the left hand suction chamber you will see a tube.  This retains the choke cable outer.  You poke the cable into this tube, the inner cable then passes out the bottom and is attached to the lever you can see just below it using a fitting similar to the throttle cable attachment.  The right hand carb shows the hole the cable passes through (although the outer cable retainer is missing) and the hole in the lever below that the inner attaches to.  My 63 has an outer retainer on both carbs but you only need one.  The lower cross linkage transmits the choke action to the other carb.  Your photos don't show the choke lever being connected to the vertical linkage that moves the jets - but I assume you have that sorted. 

Interesting to see you have attached the third return spring (that acts on the cable itself) upwards to the filter box (photo #5) .  My S has the brackets for this like yours and I have a factory diagram somewhere that shows this connection to the airbox ...although I can't find it. I think it might be in the owners manual that I have misplaced at present.  Both my factory repair manuals (UK and Oz) show all three return springs attached to the shield lower cross piece... and my shield has three drilled holes.  In any case I prefer the feel of only two springs and run both HS2's and 4s this way for quite some time..

Cheers, Ian

You can take some wobble out of the throttle cable trunnion if you stack some washers between the cotter pin and arm. Prevent side pull and binding. The third spring would go here also as a cable return spring if wanted.

#1
I checked with Burlen/SU and they do stock the throttle levers (which springs attach to.
the part numbers are AUC 1145 (L/H) and AUD 2101 (R/H).

For now I opted for the "free" solution of grinding down a brass insert.  I placed JBWeld in the irregular hole
and inserted the insert (see picture).   I will check in the morning once the JBWeld sets up and see if this will hold.

#2
I still am unable to remove the jet.  I was able to unscrew the two nuts and remove the jet and the jet bearing.
This leaves me with 2 pieces of brass stuck together!  I do not want to use vice grips on the brass.
What options might I have?

I received Joe Curto’s name from another source and had already remained him.

I will be emailing him a few additional pictures so he can better see the condition of mine and determine 
if he has any used parts that are better.  Apparently he does not have any new replacements.

He suggested using shoelace eyelets that may fit in the hole which should last for some time.

I will also be tracking down a 3/16”  brass insert.
Each carb has a lever that is attached to the jet with a phillips screw.  Around the screw is a brass insert
that should work just fine.

the Burlen/SU site does appear to have throttle levers but it is difficult to find the proper one since there are
no pictures and no description.  I did send an email but they indicate a response may take a while.

Can anyone point me to an SU parts diagram with the part numbers.  All that I have located do not list this part.

In Willie B’s picture I am not seeing the ferrule you are referring to.  I will need to do more research regarding the 
choke cable.

when I have my carbs assembled I will post pictures for all to see and comment if I have assembled them properly.

i will be ordering a twin carb rebuild kit shortly and then everything will come apart again.

The brass piston on the jet is stuck in the brass jet bearing.  I can twist it but I can not pull it out.
It is currently in my freezer!   I have had luck with freezing stuck parts.  The good news is there is a jet bearing assembly kit.

thanks for the feedback.

Call Joe Curto in NY he will have them in stock 718 762 SUSU.

The choke goes through the carb body there is a ferrule which you can see in Willie B's picture, if you do not have one ask Joe he will have that part also.

FWIW i always use 3 return springs as the factory did on twin SU set up's. one is for each carb the other is obviously for the throttle return.

On the stop levers, (assuming welding isn't an option) you could sleeve the holes with bits of metal tubing, spreading or flaring the ends of the sleeves so they stay put. Not sure what size the holes are but I'm thinking about small brake line etc.

Hey Gang,
Thanks a bunch (again) ...I'm done with this topic....because you solved it.
I'll be posting other issues soon.
Thanks again.

The spring contact points are the heat shield link bar and the throttle stop levers.
both of these appear to be worn.
the throttle stop hole is no longer round.
I can not find any part numbers.
what options do I have?

Wouldn't you need both throttle springs while balancing the carbs when the inter-connection between the two throttle shafts is loosened? I imagine it would also be a small safety factor if the inter-connection worked loose while driving - the unsprung carb would go to wide-open-throttle, letting the engine run away.

You'll probably want to use two springs just to keep the spring resistance even between the two carbs. As long as both throttles return to their fully closed position, the length and tension of the springs doesn't matter—whatever feels good under your right foot.

I'll try to take a couple of pictures of my choke setup tomorrow.