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 Posted: Dec 18, 2019 04:42PM
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Thanks for sharing Steve.  It seems that there just isn't too much info for the auto units and I get worried if something happened to mine I might not be able to find info about it.  I'm not great with cars, I only have just a basic handyman's knowledge and would certainly not have been able to figure out an oil pump priming issue.

 Posted: Dec 15, 2019 02:30PM
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Thanks for posting those. I have also learned a 998 does not like a 45 DCOE  no matter how small
of chokes are. It runs crazy good on a single HIF 38 with AAA needles. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Dec 6, 2019 03:37PM
 Edited:  Dec 6, 2019 04:49PM
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Image Gallery
Posting for Steve.

Second photo looks like priming the oil pump.

"How can anything bigger be mini?"

 Posted: Dec 6, 2019 03:28PM
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I worked shoulder to shoulder with a man for 25 years who always said " No good deed goes unpunished." He
has passed and I never ask what he meant. What should have been a few hours became a fact finding mission.
Working on getting the kick down linkage to clear the header and in she goes. Steve (CTR)

I could text a picture of the unit to some one willing to post it.

 Posted: Dec 5, 2019 03:06PM
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Congratulations on getting it sorted, and a really nice effort for the young man who gets to drive a mini again.

 Posted: Dec 5, 2019 05:31AM
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I'm pleased to report I have now been able to get oil pressure as well as crank and run this thing.
Looks like 40 psi at idle and 55 with a few RPM. As best I have been able to figure out oil is drawn
up from the sump and into the block in a normal fashion, to a very large oil pump. Instead of returning
to the block a tube crosses the rear of block turns down and enters the tranny case. From there it goes
to the oil filter mounted on the tranny case. From there it returns to tranny case and some how finds it's
way up and out of tranny case and into block traveling backwards though what looks like a normal cross
over tube. By removing the oil filter and housing I was able to force oil back though the system and prime
the pump. I ended up stripping one of my 998 autos and blowing air though to figure oil path. The late
ones have the press fit 998 rods and flat top pistons. I like these over floated or pinch blots. The crank
and rods will go in one of my .060 O/S 998s with 295 cyl head. Ultra light flywheel, back plate, two pc.
Cooper S balancer. I have had a few blocks rough bored with pistons ready to hone to finish size. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Dec 2, 2019 06:32AM
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It seems there is little interest in auto units on this board. I have what I consider a good collection of books.
It seems there are at least three different auto boxes in use. I have found info, pictures and flow charts for two.
The third which is what I'm dealing with does not show up in my material. It took three days and making a puller
to remove the torque converter. Once I get the block and tranny apart I'll let you know what I find. It's starting
to look like oil comes from oil pump into tranny then to oil filter and into the block either where it would normally
come out or somewhere I can't see yet. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Dec 1, 2019 02:58PM
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Now that I have taken apart a 998 auto I know more than I did. No they don't work at all like we thought.
Getting the torque converter off was a job. I'm pleased to report the taper and tail are in perfect condition.
I plan to use the crank in a + .060 flat top with 295 cyl. head. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Nov 30, 2019 06:58AM
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I went to the mini auto forum. I'm about over joining forums. I my search for info I have joined so many that I get emails
every day from some forum about something. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Nov 25, 2019 06:49PM
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Try asking in the auto Mini forum I linked?  Or search around, maybe someone knows something or has a thread for the same issue?

 Posted: Nov 23, 2019 10:00AM
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Steve …. Unless you've already done so, I might suggest you contact a blast from the past, Todd Miller, at the Austin America site. After-all, he's been dedicated to that brand forever and a day, and as we all know, the automatics were very popular in those cars. If you do make contact with him, let him know that his A-series expertise is missed around here.

 Posted: Nov 23, 2019 06:27AM
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I'm learning about these auto boxes. It seems there must be at least three different designs.
I have a fair collection of books and can find pictures of only two different types. What I'm dealing
with is a early to mid 90s 998 auto. The two types I can find info on do not have a tube from block to
the tranny at the filter housing area. The torque converter does not seem to have normal puller
threaded holes. It does have 6 - 5/16 fine bolts. The bolt circle is much smaller than normal. Any help
will go a long way. I'm taking one apart so I can figure out oil flow. Thanks Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Nov 21, 2019 08:16AM
 Edited:  Nov 22, 2019 10:26AM
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About ready to send 20 CCs of 90w gear oil down the tube. Steve (CTR)


Edit : Forget the 90 w gear oil for now. I'm over this. I will resort to the tools a recent brake job
made me buy. I will set up vacuum on the line coming out of the rear of block. Also rig pressure 2.5 lbs
per inch on the base. Increase each till something happens. Wish me luck.

 Posted: Nov 21, 2019 07:46AM
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Years ago I had a manual Mini here that would loose oil pressure every month if not started.
I had a hose made up with a fill port which replaced the metal oil line, it made life a lot more simple.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Nov 21, 2019 06:08AM
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Yes, I have been rotating the crank backwards. I guess my next move will be to insert a clear tube into the block and a small funnel
in the other end of hose. Fill the funnel and keep cranking backwards. I'll figure out how to get the extra oil out if I ever get oil
pressure. While I'm not having fun the owner is far more bummed than I am. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Nov 20, 2019 11:19AM
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I have drawings of two different auto oil systems and neither appear like what I have here. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Nov 20, 2019 08:37AM
 Edited:  Nov 20, 2019 09:05AM
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Just my thought for what it’s worth, but you could back fill at the banjo bolt at the block with some pressure, like from a fluid extractor, while hand turning the engine backwards, it may save taking things further apart.

Another thought, If you have a spare block to filter transfer tube, cut it , bolt to the block and put a vacuum on it, then crank.

 Posted: Nov 20, 2019 08:10AM
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The engine needs to turn backwards to suck the oil in and prime the pump you may have to do this 3 or 4 times, the way you are doing it you are just pushing the oil back out of the block and not priming the pump Steve.
The problem with the automatics is you can't just push it backwards with the spark plugs out and turn the engine over so you have to get creative and maybe use the alternator pulley nut to do it, depending on the year and set up this may require removing the radiator cowl or at least loosening up the top radiator bracket and moving the radiator and cowl it over so you can reach the alternator nut with a wrench or socket.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Nov 20, 2019 04:08AM
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Yesterday was not the big day we have been waiting for. I removed the banjo bolt at the block end of the cross over tube.
Back filled and closed, removed plugs and spun it over and over. I removed the plug at the filter housing and atemped to
fill filter with oil. I removed bolt again back filled,replaced and spun. Good starter new big 12 volt battery. I then removed the bolt
back filled with oil and spun without the bolt. Still no OP. I'm open to ideas as this is my first auto unit and we would
love to drop it in and see the guy ride. Thanks Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Nov 19, 2019 05:13AM
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I did read the oil report and ordered the correct oil suggested. I went ahead and lifted the power unit and place
a pair of 500 watt floods below it to warm the tranny and oil. Lifted in such a way as to leave the drain corner lowest.
Of the three auto units I have on hand this is the only one that did not leak oil once level reached lower than
removed pot joint. I replaced pot joint seals and installed new pots. I filled with new oil will see if it still don't leak. I
will crank on starter till we have O/P then crank it up. The shift cable was parted with a wiz wheel by the guy we bought
it from. I'm beginning to think I'll strip my other 998 autos, bag the trannys and remove cranks ,rods and store blocks. 
May be an exciting day fro a guy waiting to drive his mini again since the late 70s. Steve (CTR)

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