Wouldn't the "crush" force of bolts be the same for the two-bolt as for the single bolt? I'd imagine the bolts are to keep the sub-frame in position and the dynamic loads of the car on the sub-frame would be taken against the underside of the cross-member. I'd expect the greatest load the top of the cross-member would receive is when a cone compressor is in use at full compression.

Minitec provides a kit for earlier minis, and its essentially a 3/4" unf bolt with a spreader plate. We use a machined step washer that goes into the hole and spreads it across on the top side. Have for the past few years, no issues thus far. I have seen people do as you say and weld in a tube in the bulkhead to essentially keep it from crushing the bulkhead.

Later model Minis with the single large bolts have a tube between the top of the cross member and the bottom, which I assume was to add support for the single bolt where it sits on the cross member. I've seen that added to older shells when updating from two bolt to the single bolt.

Beauty!

Dan, you are correct.

Here is some additional photos before it headed west.

Cheers.

It appears from the photos that they simply used the big bolts through the cone compressor holes. The crossmember shouldn't have needed any strengthening as the frame load on the crossmember is the same for both 2-bolt and single bolt subframes.

How did you mount the single bolt subframe to the '64 shell?

Some more pics....coming together. runs quite well...last thing is dyno...some pics are old, so things may look messy: https://photos.app.goo.gl/3G3Ha9nuPzPXT2b47

very cool! I've always liked the D-series in minis - even cooler in a truck!

Looks awesome! I'm super jealous. I've coveted that truck for quite a while. Have fun!

Basically done! Will be shipping from MD to Sausalito CA on the 24th or so! Pretty much final pic below showing how it looks nearly stock (width etc.) below. Ride height is silly due to new cones, even though the Hi-Los are at the lowest setting?

Where-ever wolfcox will never ever go away except to collect some cox in it's skunky place

More like a sheep in skunk's clothing.

Moderators or whoever, thank you for deleting mokehead's post.... think he/she may be a sheep in 'wolves clothing lol....

That is a nice setup, but I am going to place more smaller gauges in that space, e.g. WB AFR, a small multi gauge with oil pressure, water, oil temp, fuel, etc.), and a larger tach (sequential lights above the steering wheel though). The speedo will be a fancy GPS HUD floating above dash for the driver, so not in the cluster...hence why I was looking for the measurements to ensure what I pick up will fit. I am still trying to find a place where I can mount my Russian Doomsday Bomber clock that I used to have in my Caterham. Maybe to the side of the round dash thing with a bracket. 

So if anyone has the dimensions of the round center dash, that would help a lot!

You can use a 3 clock Binnacle and replace the speedo with a large Autometer which will fit into the opening if you keep the chrome ring from the old speedo.  Replace the oil gauge with a gas gauge from an MG, as its the same resistance as the Mini one, and then you can mount turn signal, alternator and high beam lights on the edges of the binnacle.. Temp gauge will work hooked up to the Honda sender..

Planning dash out now...other half wants to keep bionical....wish I knew the dimensions of it so I can plan a layout (I will install a blank panel into the existing hole and cut out the gauge holes from that). Other than that, understanding how to tie the gauges to the custom loom will be next. 

You will absolutely love that setup.I have the same engine/gearing etc in my car and it is awesome.The hondata s300 is very user friendly to.

Couple more random pics. Still got to install cooling system, make up front brake lines to bias valve, and a couple other odds and ends. Getting there.

gone to skunk heaven