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 Posted: Nov 13, 2019 04:30PM
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US
I too have had a short manifold nut find it's way into the shift linkage. A simple strip of duct tape will help. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Nov 12, 2019 10:11AM
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I have one alternate area to suggest you check.

With the remote shift there is a horizontal opening on the back of the differential housing.  If you or your mechanic dropped something on the back of the engine (nut, bolt, socket, etc) there is a chance the dropped part fell into that opening and has wedged the shift linkage.  Years ago I had this happen with a socket that fell into the black hole behind the engine and it left my car stuck in 1st gear. 

This is an easy area/thing to check.  Just undo the 4 vertical bolts holding the shift housing onto the differential housing and lower the front of the remote.  You 'll easily be able to inspect for any dropped parts.  Since my mishap I made a cover for the hole out of aluminum roof flashing to prevent anything from falling in again.  I have seen other gearboxes where the opening was covered with a couple of wraps of duck tape.

Doug L.
 Posted: Nov 12, 2019 09:30AM
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GB

Part 27 is firmly held in place in the diff housing and should have no sideways movement along shaft 28.  Rotary movement of shaft 22 is created by the ball on the end of it engaging in a fork on the end of the gearlinkage which rotates clockwise or anticlockwise.

Drop the gearlinkage and check that the ball is still on the end of the shaft and the fork isn't bent - unlikely, but worth checking.

While the linkage is down, see if you can disengage the gear manually by pulling down on shaft 22 from underneath the car.  If you can, the fault is probably in the gearlinkage housing.

The linkage on the top of the diff housing should be fully into the 'box and up out of the diff - i.e. shaft 19 is as short as possible and shaft 22 should be fully extended.  It is possible if the male & female knuckles are out of line that they may have jammed, but that should have been apparent during bench testing.  They should also engage too deeply for this to happen, but again it's worth checking.  Check that the pinch bolts are tight, or more easily check that the knuckles aren't loose.

With the linkage dropped, if you still can't disengage reverse it's probably something internal with the actual selectors...

 Posted: Nov 11, 2019 03:09PM
 Edited:  Nov 12, 2019 12:33PM
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CA
The linkage is a little hard to understand from this sketch but maybe some notes might help.

When you move the gearshift lever left to right, it slides part 27 along part 28.
See Alex's clarification about how rotation is imparted to 22 and 21.
Thanks Alex.
When you move it forward or back, it pivots part 27 on part 28.
 
When 27 moves left/right, it rotates 22 (or 23) and 21. The rotation of 21 pulls or pushes 20 + 19 in and out of the transmission, and eventually selecting the appropriate shift fork.

When 27 pivots up/down it moves 22 + 21 up and down which imparts rotation of 20 and 19, moving the selected for to engage a gear.

To be in reverse (unless I've got it backwards) 27 would be to the left, 22 + 21 would be pushed upward and rotated anticlockwise, which would rotate 20 + 19 anticlockwise and pushed into the transmission. The ball joint between 21 and 20 would be at their extreme deflection and the ball of 20 would be slid to the outer edge of the socket of 21. If worn, the ball may be partially out of the socket.

The assortment of bushings holding these parts in place may also be worn or broken, allowing slop.

Note that parts 20 and 21 are splined onto their respective shafts and a bolt pinches them in place. Despite the notches for the pinch bolts, it is possible to assemble the joints one or two spines off either way, which induces a very weird shift pattern. (I found that out the hard way but managed to get my hand and wrenches up in there and by several trials got them properly centred. Not being double-jointed, I found it painful!)

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Nov 11, 2019 05:38AM
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US
Along the lines with Dans suggestions. 
  I would be skeptical of the rear linkage he also pictured.

If its stuck in reverse . see if you can reach a long prybar down behind the motor and move those joints manually.. or even with someone helping 'pull it' out of reverse.

   I think you need to be pushing the rods back down and central.
 When the transmission is in neutral those rods are very level and parallel with each other.  If you have a goofy angle, see if you can manipulate straight.

If you find the two ball and socket linkage is worn worn, they are NLA..  I have a few.

Along with the other linkages... when you input movement to the gearshift stick are there precise quick movements along the whole linkage assembly?


Is the plastic cup in place that goes on the end of the shifter down inside the remote housing?
  -  cup missing= shift lever not able to push the linkages enough.

Just throwing thoughts out there for ' external ' things to check.

 Posted: Nov 11, 2019 01:13AM
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Re the remote/rod debate- This is an August 1975 car ( one of the last ) but it was an automatic that I have converted to Manual gearbox. Yes it is a remote change ( big aluminium casting to gear stick ) which is why I included the note that it was a remote change.  However it is still stuck in reverse!  Any ideas? Thanks.

 Posted: Nov 10, 2019 02:26PM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by rileykestrel
Alex thanks but; Hello, I have a VandenPlas 1300 1974 ( mini engine & gearbox ) with manual remote gearbox. 
Chill out Alex. I never said it was a stupic question. I merely mentioned the original poster had stated it was a remote shift car. Since you have knowledge of both types of shift mechanisms perhaps you could describe to him where a remote shift system might bind and offer solutions rather than making assumptions that he probably has a rod shift, that his car's pedigree might be dubious and that he is located in "stateside".

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Nov 10, 2019 12:47PM
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GB
The remote box was replaced by the rod box in late '72 early '73, so no Dan, it's not a stupic question at all - going by the stated year of '74 it should have a rod 'box and some tinkering would be required to fit an earlier remote into a rod car.

 Posted: Nov 10, 2019 07:39AM
 Edited:  Nov 10, 2019 02:41PM
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CA
Alex seems to have missed where you said "remote" twice. So, assuming it IS a remote shift, one place to start looking is at the male and female gear change knuckles on the upper side of the diff  extension. They may be worn or loose and might have separated or are binding. 

See parts 20 and 21:   https://www.minimania.com/catPage/4-21/4/21/0/Magic-Wand---Remote-Type-Selections--Speedo-Drive

Edit: Here's a picture of the gear change knuckles to see where they are. It may not be exactly the same as yours, but gives the general idea.


They are very hard to get to with the engine in the car - you might get a slender, flexible hand in there and feel if they are seated OK.
The diagram will also show you how many joints there are in the linkage system of a remote shift, all of which could be worn.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Nov 10, 2019 03:20AM
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GB

Err... hello - I know what an ADO16 is, and am somewhat familiar with the drivetrain.

There are two types of gearchange on the ADO16 - the remote which is similar to the Mini remote but has a different diff housing and gear linkage, and the later rod-change type which is the same as the Mini.

A '74 VDP should be a rod, but it's always worth asking to verify as a LOT of Stateside cars have 'interesting' build years.

 Posted: Nov 10, 2019 01:34AM
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Alex thanks but; Hello, I have a VandenPlas 1300 1974 ( mini engine & gearbox ) with manual remote gearbox. 

 Posted: Nov 9, 2019 04:32AM
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GB

Rod or remote change ?

I'm guessing rod from the year.

There are a few internal things it could be, but the first and easiest thing to check is that the roll pins are holding the collar onto the gearbox shaft and lever rod properly.

 Posted: Nov 9, 2019 01:45AM
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Hello, I have a VandenPlas 1300 1974 ( mini engine & gearbox ) with manual remote gearbox. yesterday I put it into reverse and it locked up ie the gear lever is stuck in reverse. The car will drive ( backwards ) ok so clutch is good. The gearbox has just been professionally fully rebuilt due the same thing happening before. Why do they lock up like this/ Thanks