1275 Engine Upgrade Challenges
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Sep 23, 2019 05:23AM | CooperTune | |
Sep 23, 2019 12:12AM | TK | |
Sep 22, 2019 03:42PM | 1963SV2 | |
Sep 22, 2019 07:47AM | malsal | Edited: Sep 22, 2019 08:41AM |
Sep 22, 2019 07:20AM | SkovGuy | |
Sep 21, 2019 11:46PM | 1963SV2 | |
Sep 21, 2019 11:14AM | SkovGuy | |
Sep 20, 2019 03:19PM | 1963SV2 | |
Sep 20, 2019 01:51PM | SkovGuy | |
Sep 18, 2019 07:18PM | 1963SV2 | |
Sep 18, 2019 05:32PM | jedduh01 | |
Sep 18, 2019 03:05PM | SkovGuy | |
Sep 18, 2019 02:35PM | Spank | |
Sep 18, 2019 10:39AM | SkovGuy | |
Sep 18, 2019 09:46AM | onetim | |
Sep 18, 2019 09:43AM | Spank | |
Sep 18, 2019 09:10AM | onetim | Edited: Sep 18, 2019 09:36AM |
Sep 17, 2019 05:13PM | SkovGuy | |
Sep 17, 2019 12:24PM | onetim | Edited: Sep 17, 2019 12:25PM |
Sep 17, 2019 11:34AM | SkovGuy |
Found 24 Messages
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However, you could also swap the output shafts (with matching side plates) from your existing engine into the new one.
I prefer the pot joints as I feel they're smoother and new bits will always be a better bet .....but the option is there.
Cheers, Ian
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If your car has the original 1968 axles they may/should work without having to replace them, of course this all depends on what you currently have and how much has been changed over the last 50 plus years.
When you convert to discs you will need the larger outer cv's also.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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I have purchased the 1275 from MM and I have the proper shift mechanism now, it is down simply to the driveshaft, looks like I need the POT style, I do have two carbs and I am even looking at doing the hub to disc brake conversion as nothing more important than stopping they tell me
My neighbor and partner helping me with this upgrade is working on his road runner and has rebuilt many different vehicles but neither of us have ever dealt with the mini, so I do have assistance. So, at this point I just need to confirm which axels I need with the inner CV joint to match up with my new 1275 from MM
https://www.minimania.com/part/DAM667A/Classic-Austin-Mini-Inner-Cv-Pot-Joint
The axels I think I need are...
https://www.minimania.com/part/C-BTA1268/Austin-Mini-Monte-Driveshafts-Pot-Joint-Type-Pair
I will start posting pictures as I am moving everything into my basement shop and once there I can work on the car in a better location.
/Dave
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Did you buy a big bore or small bore setup? I'm guessing that the reference to "closer to freeway speeds" = a 1275?? What about accessories - how "complete" is the new engine?? Carb(s)/manifolds (in and out), dizzy, radiator, fuel pump .. how about brakes?
Have you got a manual (as in How to ... not stick shift )?
Unless you're faced with a 100 mile freeway commute, I wouldn't worry about using it as a daily driver... That's what they were designed to do. Most Minis give trouble through under not over use.
Cheers, Ian
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Sorry, a bit slow to respond, so I added a picture of this project as it stands right now, I have the front up on jack stands with the engine removed, given the tight quarters I thought I would start with this picture, the color is poor only due to the sun shining through an orange covered work area. This is literally my only car, although I do have a work truck to get parts but aside from hoping to make this a portion of my daily driver a Motorcycle is all I have.
It is a Right Hand Drive Morris cooper brought over to California from the UK in 1968, the original engine began to give me troubles and I really wanted to be able to drive it a 'closer' to freeway speeds so I bit the bullet and stopped bother MM and bought the engine. I want to keep it as a right hand drive and even went so far as to convert it to an alternator with the purchase of the dynalite alternator which looks like the original lucas generator that was on it. If it comes to replacing everything in the front end to make this work so be it, it is simply such a fun ride and love the looks it gets when it is out and about.
The interior has no flaws (and only lap belts) the console was modified with a wood veneer finish... Not much more to tell you, except aside from some basic work on my fork lift and other machinery around the place along with some as some high school auto shop I am a total newbie and thought this would be a fun project.
I did try to get in touch with MM without success so far, I will call on Monday again, hoping to get in touch with someone who can help, it is a bit of a ride to Nevada City from Santa Cruz but if I need to, a few days off and a road trip might be my next course of action.
/dave
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Unfortunately we don’t really know what you had ..or what you bought. Its possible that many of the parts you need can be swapped from the old engine to the new.
However, to start with, its not even really obvious that you actually have a Mini???
To give us a starting point, how about some photos???
Cheers, Ian
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I had spent a couple years actually humming and hawing over the purchase, did call and even visited MM in Nevada City but until you jump you never realize the questions you 'should have asked' . This was the first Mini I have ever owned and the massive changes that really had taken place between my '68 thru '70 were not evident to a newbie like myself.
So, I cannot go back, I really want to move forward and to gain the benefit of the 1275 and new transmission it seems new inner cv and shafts are the way to go.
Thanks,
Dave
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As Spank says= To avoid axle Shaft changes. you can change the differerential = but you must also swap Crown wheel gears to ensure the ratios match.
It would only cost you some gaskets + seals but you would end up with a whole 'early' axle setup in a late model trans. Not a problem
Then the can of worms. = What final drive ratio? if you have that apart. then its only a matter of one more end transmission cover to swap to a Lower final drive ratio... 3:10 is my preference for all Mini's ... if you have a 3:44 = it will work as many cars run them every day. You might only know if you open it up.
Also, I don't think I understand what's being said below... "... To avoid axle Shaft changes. you can change the differential .." True, maybe ..but not really... If you're thinking of this, why not just swap your old output shafts into your new diff??? - you'll need to swap the diff side covers but that's no big deal while you've got everything apart.. (Although, I prefer the pot joints, even if it means buying new drive shafts .and joints).
However, before considering any of this ... and certainly before pulling anything apart, you should ring MM and have a conversation along the lines of .... " I had this ..you sold me this ...what do I do now...."
Cheers, Ian
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As Spank says= To avoid axle Shaft changes. you can change the differerential = but you must also swap Crown wheel gears to ensure the ratios match.
It would only cost you some gaskets + seals but you would end up with a whole 'early' axle setup in a late model trans. Not a problem
Then the can of worms. = What final drive ratio? if you have that apart. then its only a matter of one more end transmission cover to swap to a Lower final drive ratio... 3:10 is my preference for all Mini's ... if you have a 3:44 = it will work as many cars run them every day. You might only know if you open it up.
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If you have an MG1100, I'm not sure where you can get pot joint axles of the proper length. Rumor has it that MG Metro axles are the proper length, but I've not had the opportunity to test them out even though I've been pining away for a set for the past 5 years or so and nobody has been able to help me get some.
You can also change the differential in your new transmission to the differential in your old transmission.
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You are awesome, let me start talking to MM about the right drive shaft!!
Interesting about the clutch, threw me off when you asked but makes so much sense, I will research this and post what I find and likely be spending a few more dollars
Thanks again,
Dave
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Yes them pot joints, Not them drive shafts. MM will know the part number's you need, shafts will be used, pot joints could be used as well, just check em for wear and use new grease/boots.
I am kind of surprised MM is not talking with you about all the parts needed for your conversion, should be easy money for them, and good for you. Make sure you speak with them on the phone, west coast hours, they were very helpful in my case, as well as here on the forum.
Ken? This is a paying customer.
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Hey onetim,
Thank you so much for the response, I am confused about the clutch question though? So you are saying that I need ...
https://www.minimania.com/part/DAM667A/Classic-Austin-Mini-Inner-Cv-Pot-Joint
and these drive shafts?
https://www.minimania.com/part/27H4776/Austin-Mini-S-type-Drive-Shaft-Left-Side-Short-Heavy-Duty
just using these two as examples?
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Your answer was spot on and I have made progress, now I have a new issue.. thought I would continue this thread if possible... I have my original differential output...
Original Differential Output
and my new MM engine has a 'new' output that of course my drive shaft cannot connect to.. (hopefully these images are attaching)
new MM Differential output shaft
Would you know what I need to purchase to connect to this new output shaft? of course this would be for both right and left.. attaching smaller images to left as well
Found 24 Messages