1) Both races were a tight press fit. 2) Still not sure what the spacer is all about. Why would I want to sand it or alter its length?

The looseness or play can be sometimes found where the outer race is located in the hub not in the bearing itself.

The spacer should be correct but you can machine one or sand on a flat surface to the length you need, unfortunately it is a bit of a guessing game. I think it is Cooper Tune/Steve Gibbs in Va on here that keeps all the spacers he takes out an re uses them for this very problem.

If you are running wheels with a wider than stock offset use Timken bearings but as you have tried both types i am guessing your issue is not with the bearings.

As much as I'd like to get a set of those pretty alloy KAD hubs, I don't understand how a worn hub would be the problem. If the bearing races fit tight into the hubs, where would the slop be?

I've replaced the bearings twice trying to solve the wobble. The 1st set were Timkens, the 2nd set are cheapies. Tell me about the spacer. The spacers from both the Timkens and the cheapies went in rather loosely, not at all like the tight press fit of the races. 

Thinner spacer? Please elaborate. 

What's the possibility of the spindle being worn? Seems to me that would cause a wobble. I measured the spindle with a micrometer for roundness but have no idea the diameter should be.

Try a thinner spacer first or make the one you have thinner.
If that does not work you may have a worn hub that needs replacing.

Wasn't there a problem with the spacer between the bearings that wasn't the correct size? I think I had this issue when i bought the cheap wheel bearings. Then bought the Timkens and no more problems.

My vote would be worn cv spline/shaft my car did something similar, no noise from the cv but a little loose as you described. No amount of tightening the nut changed anything. I replaced the outer cv and the movement went away. 

That's pretty bad. Do your wheel wiggling with the brakes applied. If it still wiggles its the ball joint. Another possibility is worn out hubs. A symptom of this is the bearings seeming loose and/or going in easily.

After replacing the wheel bearing, ball joints and tie rod end, I still have 1 to 2 degrees of play in my right front wheel when I grab it at 12 & 6 and 3 & 9. I'm sure everything's torqued and shimmed properly. I don't suspect the steering rack as I have no play in the steering wheel and the left front wheel is fine. There's not much left upstream to consider other than the pot joint or CVJ, but I'm not getting any click-click sounds when I turn. Worn spline(s) maybe? [video]

I wouldn't bother except I think it's causing some moderate torque steer in an otherwise straight steering car. It pulls right when I accelerate and left when I decelerate, which I think is consistent with a floppy left wheel; the wheel's going toe-in under acceleration and toe-out when I lift the throttle. Any ideas?