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 Posted: Jun 3, 2019 07:31PM
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Ishod..  dido what the guys said. If you afford.. buy a proper SU fuel pump..  direct is best.. www.burlen.co.uk  I have been NEW HS4s from them for years... later bc

 Posted: Jun 3, 2019 01:20PM
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CA
+1 to what Doug says about the constant ticking. I tried a Facet and went for a short test drive with only a little fuel in the tank. Rounding a corner, the pump sucked air - it hammered so loud I thought I'd thrown a connecting rod. Scared the bejeebers out of me! My SU doesn't do that. It only clicks when it has to maintain the fuel pressure and will rattle politely if by chance I run out of gas.

I still have the Facet pump. I use it to siphon gas out of small engine fuel tanks when prepping them for storage. (I hate the taste of gasoline!)

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jun 3, 2019 07:49AM
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US
I hate spending money so I encourage you to troubleshoot and fix your existing pump if possible before replacing it.  However, if after you troubleshoot this you decide a new pump is in order... I offer the following two comments.

The SU pump is original and won't require any modifications to fit a new one.  However, they are not cheap.  Shop around for the best price.

If you are on a budget, you can have good results with aftermarket electric pumps IF you pay attention to their pressure rating.  For the Facet "cube" pumps, this means buying a Facet 40163 which is rated for 1.5 to 2.5 PSI.  Shop around.  The online prices for that pump range from about $50 to $90 for the exact same pump.  Follow the Facet instructions regarding pump orientation and the use of a pre-filter and you will have years of good service.  That said, you won't hear a Facet pump while driving but you may hear it when standing at an idle.  Some people really hate the Facet's constant ticking.

Doug L.
 Posted: Jun 3, 2019 06:28AM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6464
From what the guy said,  he is only getting 7 volts to the pump.  Something is wrong with his power supply . You can take a lead from the POS side of the battery and touch the fuel pump terminal , to see if it works.  If it works , then trace the original power supply line for faults.
Or he could disconnect the lead from the pump and test its supply voltage without the load.
+1 for checking a good ground for the pump too.
+1 for a new SU pump if it needs replacing.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jun 2, 2019 03:15PM
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The 7 volts might just show the pump is dragging a lot of current because the pump is jammed.  We also dont know where the other voltmeter lead (meter reference) was attached.  If someone pulled off that pump and painted things, who knows if there is a good current path to ground return?  But yes, quick test would be to check ground resistance, then run a jumper wire direct from battery to pump, bypass all the old wiring long enough to confirm.

 Posted: Jun 2, 2019 09:16AM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6464
From what the guy said,  he is only getting 7 volts to the pump.  Something is wrong with his power supply . You can take a lead from the POS side of the battery and touch the fuel pump terminal , to see if it works.  If it works , then trace the original power supply line for faults.
That's a very good point.

Doug L.
 Posted: Jun 2, 2019 08:44AM
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US
From what the guy said,  he is only getting 7 volts to the pump.  Something is wrong with his power supply . You can take a lead from the POS side of the battery and touch the fuel pump terminal , to see if it works.  If it works , then trace the original power supply line for faults.

 Posted: Jun 2, 2019 12:26AM
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Do yourself a favour and buy a proper SU pump and save yourself a lot of heartache by using something else .

 Posted: Jun 1, 2019 05:24PM
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previous post from dklawson is correct.  Sometimes it helps to pull the hose connection off the carburetor, add a length of hose to let gas run into a bucket.  Then the pump has no restriction on the outlet.  After a couple of love taps, the pump should start pumping.

 Posted: Jun 1, 2019 03:52PM
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US
SU pumps have internal points that stick periodically.  Before you buy a new pump, take the handle of a hammer and strike the metal part of the pump body with the handle a few times.  If the pump wakes up and starts ticking, you may want to remove the plastic cover on the end of the pump body and clean the pump points. 

If the pump refuses to wake up, the low pressure Facet or Mr. Gasket pumps carried by local parts stores are a good alteranative as Bill said above.  Just make sure you get the low pressure pump.  3 PSI would be ideal but most will be a bit higher.  Do not get one rated for more than 4 PSI.

Doug L.
 Posted: Jun 1, 2019 03:04PM
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ishod.. yea..  should be 12 volts.. might just replace with generic one. from Advance Auto parts.. think  you need the one with 3 PSI..  later bc

 Posted: Jun 1, 2019 02:05PM
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I'm not tech savvy so this is prob a newby question. I'm a new Mini owner. 1965 Cooper S with an electric SU fuel pump mounted on rear subframe. Pump is not working. Tested voltage and it's receiving 7 volts. I assume it should be 12V. The car has a new wiring harness and connections in the engine compartment appear to be clean and in good condition. I've looked thru manuals and can't find anything about necessary voltage to this pump. Any troubleshooting suggestions would be appreciated. THANK YOU