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 Posted: Feb 25, 2019 09:38AM
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A happy ending is a good ending!

Thanks for keeping us updated, it was a learning experience for all of us.

 Posted: Feb 25, 2019 08:17AM
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Good to know the 4 stroke engine laws are still working, when you had fuel, spark, and compression, I was worried hehe. Well done on the repair.

 Posted: Feb 25, 2019 07:30AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenatminimania
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonmwitt
So to kinda give a break down....I left to go to the gas station 2 hours prior to the failure, when I got back in the car 2 hours later it just wouldn’t fire. I have confirmed that I’m getting spark. Coil,plugs,and wires are brand new. No warning or anything that would suggest a growing problem. It was just dead. 
Okay, thanks for the info.  When you say 'it wouldn't fire' - I presume the engine is turning over (cranking) but won't fire - is this correct?  

As Spank mentioned, combustion requires 3 basic elements - fuel, ignition, and air.  Since you have spark and have fuel, it may very well be a fuel delivery issue (as spank also mentioned). When you saw fuel in the cylinders, were the spark plugs soaked as in 'flooded'?

Given all the electronics and computers in these cars, it can very easily be an electrical issue. Anything from a bad connection to corrupted software in the computer or a bad sensor / component. But this would usually trigger some type of error code thru the OBD port and some kind of check engine light.  It is very puzzling that you have a car that won't start and no error codes.
So I got the car running this morning. It turned out to be the fuel pump. When I initially pulled the plugs they were wet not so much to make me think it was flooded so I didn’t even think to check the pump and since I had never heard the pump running since buying the car it didn’t hit me to check it. When I checked the fuel pressure thinking it had to be the regulator I had zero pressure so I went and grabbed a new pump and it fired right up way better than it has ever done for me so I’m thinking that the pump was slowly dying but I never noticed anything was off. Also had the battery checked and it’s good to go. 

So so happy to be back on the road! Thank for everyone’s help! Glad it was something simple this time!

 Posted: Feb 25, 2019 04:54AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonmwitt
So to kinda give a break down....I left to go to the gas station 2 hours prior to the failure, when I got back in the car 2 hours later it just wouldn’t fire. I have confirmed that I’m getting spark. Coil,plugs,and wires are brand new. No warning or anything that would suggest a growing problem. It was just dead. 
Okay, thanks for the info.  When you say 'it wouldn't fire' - I presume the engine is turning over (cranking) but won't fire - is this correct?  

As Spank mentioned, combustion requires 3 basic elements - fuel, ignition, and air.  Since you have spark and have fuel, it may very well be a fuel delivery issue (as spank also mentioned). When you saw fuel in the cylinders, were the spark plugs soaked as in 'flooded'?

Given all the electronics and computers in these cars, it can very easily be an electrical issue. Anything from a bad connection to corrupted software in the computer or a bad sensor / component. But this would usually trigger some type of error code thru the OBD port and some kind of check engine light.  It is very puzzling that you have a car that won't start and no error codes.

 Posted: Feb 22, 2019 09:07AM
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So to kinda give a break down....I left to go to the gas station 2 hours prior to the failure, when I got back in the car 2 hours later it just wouldn’t fire. I have confirmed that I’m getting spark. Coil,plugs,and wires are brand new. No warning or anything that would suggest a growing problem. It was just dead. 

 Posted: Feb 22, 2019 09:00AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonmwitt
Thanks for the info! I’ll definitely check the regulator out, I didn’t even think about it because fuel is getting to the cylinders but I never stopped to think maybe it’s the wrong amount....saw the 120psi and got worried because the shop I talked to said to look for 150-180 150 being the absolute bottom. 

This is is my first mini and I love the damn thing lol. 
Spank made some good suggestions.

It sounds like the car quit running while driving?  If you are getting fuel in the cylinders, perhaps it may be an ignition issue?  Have you confirmed you are getting spark at the spark plugs?

If you have an early build R53, maybe something tripped the inertial fuel cut-off switch - but then you wouldn't be getting fuel in the cylinders.

Have you checked all the fuses?

If you MINI suddenly failed to start, it may be something else...

 Posted: Feb 22, 2019 08:16AM
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Thanks for the info! I’ll definitely check the regulator out, I didn’t even think about it because fuel is getting to the cylinders but I never stopped to think maybe it’s the wrong amount....saw the 120psi and got worried because the shop I talked to said to look for 150-180 150 being the absolute bottom. 

This is is my first mini and I love the damn thing lol. 

 Posted: Feb 22, 2019 08:00AM
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120 is fine because numbers will vary depending on your gauge, how fresh your battery and starter are, etc. 120 is DEFINITELY enough to make the combustion process make bang-bangs.

My $ is on the fuel pump or fuel delivery system. There's no sensors to check for that stuff to trip an engine code.

The CEL you have may be related to you cranking while checking for compression and not for the actual issue. Your plugs were disconnected after all...

So the CEL is likely a red herring.


The fuel system does not have a return line. The tank has an internal pressure release system and there is also an in-tank fuel filter. It's an interesting setup and took me a while to figure out when I had a similar situation.

Oh, there's also some sort of diaphram along the fuel rail at the front of the engine that sends a vacuum signal that is also related to fuel pressure and fuel delivery. On the same occasion I found that I had a bad regulator valve inside the tank, I also found the diaphragm thingie to be bad. Not sure which was the true culprit for my problem, but I had the parts to swap out it all.

Diagnosis costs lots of $ and it's just some dude with more experience than you (hopefully) going through a common list of problems he's either found on the internet or gathered during his own experience, or both. He also may have access to some program that provides a trouble tree. "Do you have fuel pressure? If yes, proceed to XYZ. If No, proceed to ABC." All the while he is charging shop repair rates at $80-$180 per hour. And there's no guarantee he will find the problem but there is a guarantee that you will be charged for his time.

If you are competent enough to check for compression, you have the skills required to check for fuel pressure and to google how the fuel filter, fuel pump, and fuel pressure regulator(s) work. Again, take note that there are TWO different things people call a fuel pressure regulator on the R53-- one on the fuel rail which really doesn't have much to do with getting fuel to the rail and is more about vacuum vs boos signal differences, and the primary one is in the fuel tank itself on the passenger side accessed from under the back seat cushion. You got to open up the top of the tank to get to it.

Have fun!

 Posted: Feb 22, 2019 05:38AM
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So you’re saying 120 is fine? Shouldn’t it be 150-180’s? It finally threw a code last night and I’m having it read today so at least I’ll have that rabbit hole to follow. 

 Posted: Feb 22, 2019 05:32AM
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US
You probably want to get a real diagnosis. in a SHOP.
    Compression is there , but wheres the spark and fuel?

Spend the $ to get a real automotive diagnosis to know really what the issue is before thinking the engine is gone.
 
Fuel pump
Fuel control relays
Igntion modules
 Coils   all could contribute to 'non running"

 Posted: Feb 22, 2019 05:21AM
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Ok so yesterday morning my R53 quit running without warning, no code or anything. Checked to see if it was getting fuel and spark even changed the coil and plugs just to cover the bases still nothing. The local mini shop told me to check compression and I am getting an average of 120psi across all cylinders I know that’s low but is it so low that the engine won’t turn over? Is it worth pursuing a rebuild/replace or should I cut my loses before I go to far into my pocket? 

Any my tips and advice it much appreciated! 

Also so the car has right around 223k miles on it.