For future reference, if the shop did change the wire colors and you decide to go back to OEM standard, you will find all the terminals and wire in the proper gage and color at britishwiring.com

Well I will def check and see what wire goes to what terminal.  Hope it's a simple fix as just moving a wire to the other terminal.  Thanks again for the reply.

"......Why would the dip switch on the column have anything to do with what the 3 position flip switch does..."

Because the light switch doesn't connect to the headlights.  It just powers the dip switch (and runs the side lights)...  The dip switch connects to the headlights.

But you could be right (in the original post) about using the wrong switch terminals. Easy enough to check if there's a blue wire connected to Terminal 8... which goes to the dipswitch (not so easy to check ; noting that the re-wire may have thrown colours and connections all out the door.  However, if there's a wire on Terminal 7 (which there shouldn't be) you could try swapping it to 8 (which there should be) and seeing what happens (smoke is bad

One downside of fiddling about is that if (when??) you take it back and demand a warranty job they might deny everything and claim the problem is because you've changed something....

Cheers

Ian,

Thanks for the reply.  Mine is a 1968 Morris Mini but not standard.  A lot of mods were don't to it by the previous owner.  It was rebuilt from the ground up in 93 and was a hill climb racing car.  So the wiring was anything but close to traditional.   
Why would the dip switch on the column have anything to do with what the 3 position flip switch does?  Just curious because I have no idea.  What would I check for?  And I do know that there is oil in the carb dash pot but I could drain it and refill it.   

I couldn't find if you describe which kind of Mk II you have??

The "upmarket" Mk IIs (S, Traveller,Deluxes etc) have more complicated wiring than the "Standard Saloon", van etc

In any case, the light switch/connections seem to be identical to the Mk Is.  However, the dipswitch is more complex ... no doubt due to its move to the steering wand and incorporation of the headlight flash capability... 

I think I would be concentrating on the wiring of the dip switch rather than the headlight switch......

And I would be looking for a new shop.... although I appreciate you may not have a choice (I live in a country region outside a small town).

As a start to solving your bogging down issue I would be draining the carbs dash pots and refilling with plain engine oil (if indeed to do have oil in them already?).  Although, there are lots of other possible sources of your problem.  Unlike modern FI setups, your Mini will not like having the throttle floored if the revs are too low.

Cheers, Ian 

Wonder if the 68 MKII had the same wiring.  And not sure if when they rewired my mini if they went back to original wire colors.  I'll have to check.

Ian,

Thanks for the info.  I'll have to see if I can decode that when I pull the switch.  And yeah if I can't figure it out I am planning on having them fix it if I can get the lag out of my tuning.  When I press down on the gas pedal if I push it down really fast it bogs down.  And these guys tuned my car too.  Feel like the only thing they finally got right is the suspension.  And that was after I had to take it back to them once because they set it too low.  Told them I want it low but not so low that when I turn the wheel the tire rubs on the fender.  And when I got it back it was rubbing.  So while driving it back I hit a bump on the road and it bottomed out and my rear drivers flare broke off and shattered on the road.  So that was fun.  And of course those flares aren't produced any longer.  So now trying out new flares.  

I looked at the Mk II diagram in my factory manual .. but it looks a bit complicated ..so I flipped over to the MK I version to check.  Lighting circuits looks pretty much the same (except the MKI diagram looks clearer    

One terminal of the switch (Position 2 with Posn 1 being "off") connects to the "parking" circuit .. Ie front parking bulb (which is what your Mk II would have had before you fitted the aftermarket "halo") and the rear tail lights.  In Posn 3 the parking circuit is also energised (red wire) and another line goes to the dip switch (blue wire) which then feeds the high or low beam terminals.  

So there isn't a direct connection between the main lights (high/low beam) and the switch.... 

Having paid for a re-wiring I would be going back and demanding that they make it work!!

Cheers, Ian

Yeah just tried that and on the wiring diagram for a Mark II it doesn't make sense to me.  The light switch doesn't even connect to any wires on the headlamp.  Well from what I can follow.  And not sure if the original Mark IIs cam with these type of switches.

In the search above try wiring diagrams.  You can then select your model/year/etc. and will find the information you want.  

Would anyone happen to have the wiring diagram for this switch?  I had a shop rewire my Mini and now the lights don't work right.  I have blue halo headlamps and when I put the toggle switch the the middle the halo and the headlamp come on.  It should be just the halos.  When I put it to the bottom it is Halo and headlamp like it's supposed to be.  I think they have a wire on the wrong post.  Thanks in advance.