Thanks so much everyone for all the info! I'm going to show this to my buddy who is a mechanic and see what he can come up with. If nothing I may need to rent one $ if possible. =D

Thanks

 

I found this on another forum and tried to sign up but I can't seem to be able to sign up. Maybe its UK only...

BUT this guy seems to have the same problem!!!!! =D

I'm trying to figure out how to contact them and see if they were able to fix their problem!!!! =D

 

//www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/256623-spi-mini-idle-and-running-fault/

There was an article on the alternative MEMS readers in Car Mechanics May of 2016. It is only two pages, but it gives an overview. There have been updates to the tools since then. It looks like they are not entirely open source and you need to build your own cable appropriate for your car.

I am looking for a way to buy that back issue.
Terry

This thread in the Mini Forum UK has alot of information, but it is spread out through many posts. There are a couple of open source projects. I don't fully understand the differences.

 

//www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/34741-spi-code-reader/page-11
//www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/34741-spi-code-reader/page-11

The commercial versions are made Sykes Pickavant and Crypton. They seem to sell for more than they are worth for 20 year old instruments.
The SP type is the ACR and the Crypton is the ACT. There are different cables and modules that need to be matched to the car and device.

I have the SP version and I have been known to share it if the details can be worked out.
Terry

PS: I dont seem to be able to properly add a link anymore.

Almost forgot. Someone has developed a plug and play hook up that works with a standard lap top, i don't have any information on it though.

Cool thanks for the info! I'll try to find one!

They come up for sale occasionally in the UK look for sykes pickavant with an  spi / mpi feature.

Oh right TSMITH its a coilpack and not distributor. I think I said Distributor back in my post because I'm not used to coilpacks ha! I still have lots to learn.

 

MALSAL I forgot to mention I tried a friends scanner but like you said it didn't have mini specific settings and couldn't read in any of the generic modes. I'm kinda in the middle of nowhere and can't find anyone with a proper scanner for it.

The hybrid MPi block/SPi throttle body setup can be recognized by the lack of a distributor and the presence of a coilpack.
Terry

WOOO HOOO!! I think we might finally be onto something! Very hopeful after months of fighting with this thing! THANKS SO MUCH for the help so far everyone!

SPITZ, I don't remember who it was but he was someone from Burnaby. He brought the car over from Japan but that was it. I had to get it inspected and some small repairs to get it registered. He prob noticed the problems like running on 3 cylinders and just dumped it on craigslist after almost 2 years sitting. I got it for a price I think was pretty cheap.

 

MALSAL- Ahh that makes sense about the MPI block SPI Injection. Thats what it seems to be.

Yes after looking over TMSMITH's photo I printed and compared it was definitely a Thermac Valve vacuum hose to Inlet Manifold just as you say!

 

So I ran up town and bought a bunch of vacuum hose and reconnected the lines. I just took it for a test drive and thought maybe it will run worse but so far no problems. I'll cold start it tomorrow and see what happens but maybe this will fix it!? ha!

 

I'm guessing maybe the Thermac valve/ switch is faulty and since they were in Japan perhaps they just cut and corked the lines. From what I understand it prevents icing closing the servo flat which they wouldn't have to worry about in Japan so maybe they just cut the lines to bypass the Thermac Valve?

 

I can't really understand why else they would cut the lines otherwise.

 

Now that that the line is on I guess I'll just wait to see what happens. If I still have problems I'll prob try spraying some carb cleaner on the vacuum lines and see if that effects the running if there is a leak on some line elsewhere. I'll prob end up replacing all the lines as suggested eventually anyhow.

 

Thanks again! Fingers crossed!

What you have is an MPI block with spi injection i am guessing. The Japanese spec Minis came that way from October 96 >.
Usually there are two vacuum ports located on the rear of the inlet manifold, they are near impossible to see but you can feel them
One port is connected to the fuel trap the other port goes to the air filter box air temp sensor.
When you changed the coolant sensor if you removed the intake you should have seen them but you can change the sensor from below the car.
Is the coolant temp sensor reading correctly?
When you finally get everything right you will need to re set the computer with a Mini specific code reader as the codes will not go away even if you disconnect the battery.

Who/Where in CA did you buy the car from MiniBlue....or did you import yourself.  I've been trying to contact Craig at Hunters in Victoria, but thinking he may not be trading anymore

Thanks so much guys for the help!! I'll print this off and take a look. It almost looks like that little hose with the screw in it is suppose to be connected just below. Makes sense why I couldn't see where it goes. But why someone would cork it...

 

The lines all seem nice and soft and nothing is dry or cracked but I will take another look for sure.

 

I'm in Osoyoos Canada. I was told it might be a MPI because of where the distributor is and other things but when I pulled the air filter off I was surprised to see its a SPI at least what I understand.

The person who thought it was a MPI said it makes sense because there was a crossover period where there were some SPI's with newer MPI setups. I'm not sure what a Dissy is?

 

Thanks again for the help!

This is what should be there:

dido what jim just said.about the vacuum hoses and elbow.. any parts store has them...btw is this a MPI with a dissy or SPI ??where are you?/ maybe club member can help you.. 

The first thing most owners do with a Jap import, is replace the Vacuum Lines.  Very hot environment, and the Elbows perish and crack.  It should make a BIG difference if you do that. Good luck. Jim

Hum seems my photos didn't work. I tried to host them from my old website. Lets see if this link works...

toddarmstrongphotography.com/mini

HELP! I have been trying to fix my mini for almost a year now and I'm officially all out of ideas.

It has been imported from Japan where I think the owners street raced it because it seems a bit abused like cut tires from slamming a curb and someone was tinkering under the hood which I think they were tying to get more power out of it or something and just made it run rich.

When I got it it was running on 3 cylinders but a compression test ran 190-200psi. New plugs and wires fixed that issue.

The tank was super rusted so it was stripped and new fuel pump/filter and line filter were installed.

 

The problem: When I start the car it starts rough but once the RPM's get up it runs great. UNLESS I drive for a half hour or more and turn the car off. If I ran this long and restart the car it starts nice BUT when I give it a bit of gas it completely chokes and even stalls if I don't back off. It can be scary crossing roads!

Its running super rich!

But not always. Only when I run for a half hour or more.

I first replaced the Coolant Sensor thinking once it got warm it was sending bad info. Replacing didn't help.

So I replaced the Oxygen Sensor. Didn't help.

So I replaced the Thermostat (and replaced a screwdriver punctured hose! Sheesh).

I thought it was a electrical sensor issue because it only ran rich after the car was warmed up... it seemed.

 

Now that its winter it runs rich right off the start and is choky in a certain area on the peddle around the 15-25% area of pressing the peddle if that makes sense.

It seems the car is not getting enough air in the injector. The plugs are all pretty black and I just replaced them. Exhaust is black and smoky a bit.

 

I have found all kinds of odd things done to the car and a few hoses that were off and I put back on or some with screws in them and still not on because I don't know what they are or where they go.

Eg. this hose was disconnected so I put it back in.

 

 

This short hose has a screw shoved into it and don't know why.

 

I'm guessing this is a breather hose of some sort? I can't find where it would connect.

 

Things ok here?

 

Thanks for the help everyone! Hope I can get this sorted out!!