1978 Mini 1000 California smog
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Jan 16, 2019 02:19PM | malsal | |
Jan 16, 2019 01:53PM | Spitz | |
Jan 15, 2019 09:31PM | psyb0rg | |
Jan 15, 2019 06:34PM | tmsmith | |
Jan 15, 2019 06:22PM | thewerewolf | |
Jan 15, 2019 06:18PM | psyb0rg | |
Jan 15, 2019 05:46PM | tmsmith | |
Jan 15, 2019 05:18PM | psyb0rg | |
Jan 15, 2019 05:15PM | psyb0rg | |
Jan 15, 2019 04:47PM | tmsmith | Edited: Jan 15, 2019 04:51PM |
Jan 15, 2019 03:34PM | scottwkurth | |
Jan 15, 2019 12:33PM | psyb0rg | Edited: Jan 15, 2019 12:34PM |
Jan 15, 2019 11:49AM | Spank | |
Jan 15, 2019 11:20AM | psyb0rg | |
Jan 15, 2019 11:12AM | psyb0rg | |
Jan 15, 2019 09:05AM | thewerewolf | |
Jan 15, 2019 08:48AM | Spank | |
Jan 15, 2019 08:10AM | malsal | |
Jan 15, 2019 07:05AM | thewerewolf | |
Jan 15, 2019 01:11AM | psyb0rg | Edited: Jan 15, 2019 01:13AM |
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I have never had to smog a vehicle and i am sure there are other things you can do but i have heard that weakening the carb mixture helps, driveability will suck you may need to use a small amount of choke to drive it but you can just reverse the setting once the test is done.
I don't think there is any need for the dashpot heater to work as this is a cold climate addition.
All good advice above but as Terry said there will be no specs to go by as they stopped importing Minis into the Us in 1967.
I am going to guess that it was never smogged by the previous owner but as i stated i have never registered a vehicle in California so whether you could register it without smog back then i don't know.
I do know your CA DMV is much like the rest of the Country from what i have heard and a lot of outcomes depend on who you have the pleasure of dealing with on any particular day.
Good luck.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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I'd just like to add....wow....it's rare to see a CA market car that retains it's air pump, air rail etc.
These are usually ripped off early in their life as they suck a little of the orig 38 ( generous ) HP from the engine.
If you need a rad replacement in the future, these ones are very hard to find now....possibly could have a new one altered to work
Have not read 90% of earlier posts, but Bills may be a good one.....why risk anything with this possibly illegal one in Cal......find a legal one
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
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Got a box of parts from MiniMania arriving any day now!
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Terry
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5. Crankcase purge line vents into the valve cover. Maybe this should go to the canister as well, not sure.
https://www.minimania.com/msgThread/115620/1/1/Crankcase_Ventilation
The canister has three inputs:
One is for sure for fuel vapor from the tank.
The carb fuel overflow is blocked with a bolt, and it leaks. I think that needs to connect to the canister as well. If not, I need to make it flow to the side somewhere.
Now that leaves one input, and I have the valve cover and crankcase breather left over. I can connect these with a T and hook it to the third, BUT, when I got the car, the third input was connected to the air filter box. Could it be there for vacuum, or maybe just to grab vapors from the carb?
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//www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/339278-radiator-flush-drama/
It appears to be an engine with the intact smog equipment from the 70s. The problem is there is no information on the California system for this year as it was never imported.
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5. Crankcase purge line vents into the valve cover. Maybe this should go to the canister as well, not sure.
https://www.minimania.com/msgThread/115620/1/1/Crankcase_Ventilation
Scott | 1963 Austin Cooper | 2003 MINI Cooper S | 2018 MINI Cooper 4-door
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I have never had to smog a vehicle
With no offense intended to malsai, psyb0rg you are focusing on the wrong part of malsai's response to you.
There are areas in California that do not need smog certification. Perhaps (and I'm only postulating and not speaking with any authority) that the previous owner who initially registered it lived in one of those areas that didn't require smog at the time.
Do you know why it was placed on PNO? Could it have been because of the need to smog it?
I think the best thing to do would be to go to a smog center and see what happens. If it fails the visual-parts check, then that's something I'll have to investigate and track parts, etc. But if it fails emissions, I don't know what all I could do except maybe play with the carb tuning.
I just set the timing by feel and it's running smooth, but I guess I'll check it properly. BTW, how would they test the idle rpm? Should I hook up a tachometer to make sure it's idling right?
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I have never had to smog a vehicle
With no offense intended to malsai, psyb0rg you are focusing on the wrong part of malsai's response to you.
There are areas in California that do not need smog certification. Perhaps (and I'm only postulating and not speaking with any authority) that the previous owner who initially registered it lived in one of those areas that didn't require smog at the time.
Do you know why it was placed on PNO? Could it have been because of the need to smog it?
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I have never had to smog a vehicle and i am sure there are other things you can do but i have heard that weakening the carb mixture helps, driveability will suck you may need to use a small amount of choke to drive it but you can just reverse the setting once the test is done.
I don't think there is any need for the dashpot heater to work as this is a cold climate addition.
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Your best bet for help with what your car's smog equipment should look like when fitted properly is probably something like the same year MGB or Triumph or someone with an unfettered Australian or Canadian mini of that vintage.
My advice is A: Don't use Seafoam in your oil/crankcase. The mini oiling system is one that doesn't always filter 100% of your oil all too well. If you want to dump it in your gas, fine do that. But don't dump it in your oil. B) set you car up to factory specifications for timing and fueling. Do a basic tune up with properly functioning components. C) Report back here the results of your experience so that others can benefit or be educated by your discoveries.
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The car has the following equipment that's required for emissions:
1. A smog/air pump running off the crank. The pump connects to the proper intake manifold with two ports through a "gulp valve".
2. A charcoal canister that has three inlet ports on top. One of them is connected to the fuel tank (for gas vapors). I still have to figure out what the other two connect to. One of them was connected to the air filter box when I got the car, maybe for vapors from the carb? If anyone has info on this then please let me know.
3. A heater coil on the carb dashpot. Does this need to be in working order for the smog test?
4. An air filter box with a hot air valve thing at the end. I think it's supposed to supply hot air to the carb. Can I just remove the valve?
5. Crankcase purge line vents into the valve cover. Maybe this should go to the canister as well, not sure.
So my question(s) is, does this all look sufficient to pass the EVAP and visual section of the smog test? Am I missing anything? Also, what can I do to improve the sniffer part of the test? I'm doing a radiator flush, several oil changes with Seafoam (remove all gunk), and have a newly lined gas tank for clean fuel. Apart from carburetor tuning, what else can I do to improve my chances?
Here's a pic of the mess:
Not for the faint at hear
I have never had to smog a vehicle and i am sure there are other things you can do but i have heard that weakening the carb mixture helps, driveability will suck you may need to use a small amount of choke to drive it but you can just reverse the setting once the test is done.
I don't think there is any need for the dashpot heater to work as this is a cold climate addition.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
Total posts: 3919
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The car has the following equipment that's required for emissions:
1. A smog/air pump running off the crank. The pump connects to the proper intake manifold with two ports through a "gulp valve".
2. A charcoal canister that has three inlet ports on top. One of them is connected to the fuel tank (for gas vapors). I still have to figure out what the other two connect to. One of them was connected to the air filter box when I got the car, maybe for vapors from the carb? If anyone has info on this then please let me know.
3. A heater coil on the carb dashpot. Does this need to be in working order for the smog test?
4. An air filter box with a hot air valve thing at the end. I think it's supposed to supply hot air to the carb. Can I just remove the valve?
5. Crankcase purge line vents into the valve cover. Maybe this should go to the canister as well, not sure.
So my question(s) is, does this all look sufficient to pass the EVAP and visual section of the smog test? Am I missing anything? Also, what can I do to improve the sniffer part of the test? I'm doing a radiator flush, several oil changes with Seafoam (remove all gunk), and have a newly lined gas tank for clean fuel. Apart from carburetor tuning, what else can I do to improve my chances?
Here's a pic of the mess:
Not for the faint at hear