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 Posted: Jan 16, 2019 02:19PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psyb0rg
Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
 
i am not sure how it got registered in CA the first time as it is newer than what is now accepted but maybe the laws and regulations were different in the 90's.
I have never had to smog a vehicle and i am sure there are other things you can do but i have heard that weakening the carb mixture helps, driveability will suck you may need to use a small amount of choke to drive it but you can just reverse the setting once the test is done.
I don't think there is any need for the dashpot heater to work as this is a cold climate addition.  


What do you mean by weakening the mixture? Running it lean?
 
Yes it would be leaner.

All good advice above but as Terry said there will be no specs to go by as they stopped importing Minis into the Us in 1967.
I am going to guess that it was never smogged by the previous owner but as i stated i have never registered a vehicle in California so whether you could register it without smog back then i don't know.
I do know your CA DMV is much like the rest of the Country from what i have heard and a lot of outcomes depend on who you have the pleasure of dealing with on any particular day.
Good luck.


If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Jan 16, 2019 01:53PM
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CA

I'd just like to add....wow....it's rare to see a CA market car that retains it's air pump, air rail etc.
These are usually ripped off early in their life as they suck a little of the orig 38 ( generous ) HP from the engine.

If you need a rad replacement in the future, these ones are very hard to find now....possibly could have a new one altered to work

Have not read 90% of earlier posts, but Bills may be a good one.....why risk anything with this possibly illegal one in Cal......find a legal one

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Jan 15, 2019 09:31PM
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Thank you guys. Really appreciate all the input. I'll try and contact Alex, and I guess I'll go ahead with plans to attempt a smog test. Now I just have to sort out the radiator, replace fuel pump, adjust carb and timing, and sort the canister

Got a box of parts from MiniMania arriving any day now!

 Posted: Jan 15, 2019 06:34PM
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US
As Bill points out we are armchair experts. I have known people to get 1975+ cars registered. I have also heard of others that have not had success.

 Posted: Jan 15, 2019 06:22PM
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psybOrg..  go to the head of legal  of CARB. and ask.  [email protected]   Alex is a nice guy.  he will actually answer his phone at CARB..  forget all the arm chair experts.  go to the source.. later bc  ps..plus Alex put ML out of business..   my kind of guy..

 Posted: Jan 15, 2019 06:18PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmsmith
The smog stuff has been computerized for many years. I don't know how anyone could bypass the specific requirements and issue a compliance certificate. I am pretty sure it is the responsibility of the seller to make a car smog compliant, but again a large number of variables that affect this. Terry
So, are you saying it's close to impossible to get this smogged?

 Posted: Jan 15, 2019 05:46PM
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The smog stuff has been computerized for many years. I don't know how anyone could bypass the specific requirements and issue a compliance certificate. I am pretty sure it is the responsibility of the seller to make a car smog compliant, but again a large number of variables that affect this.

Terry

 Posted: Jan 15, 2019 05:18PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmsmith
I would agree with Mike and add that there are too many variables to be able to answer questions. I believe there are pictures of your engine on the mini forum UK: //www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/339278-radiator-flush-drama/ It appears to be an engine with the intact smog equipment from the 70s. The problem is there is no information on the California system for this year as it was never imported.
The PO did say the smog people always used to say that there isn't any information in their system to compare the data against and that they would only check whether the numbers weren't abhorrently high.

 Posted: Jan 15, 2019 05:15PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottwkurth
Quote:
Originally Posted by psyb0rg
2. A charcoal canister that has three inlet ports on top. One of them is connected to the fuel tank (for gas vapors). I still have to figure out what the other two connect to. One of them was connected to the air filter box when I got the car, maybe for vapors from the carb? If anyone has info on this then please let me know. 
...
5. Crankcase purge line vents into the valve cover. Maybe this should go to the canister as well, not sure. 

I think your valve cover and crankcase breather are the other two inputs to the catch canister in #2. I can't imagine why the crankcase and valve cover would connect to each other. They are two of the three main crankcase ventilation points. This thread was helpful to me when I was working on my ventilation:
https://www.minimania.com/msgThread/115620/1/1/Crankcase_Ventilation
Yeah you're right, it's weird that the crankcase is connected to the valve cover. One reason I can think of is because the crankcase outputs oil vapor, it would be nice for it to go back into the valve cover? 

The canister has three inputs:
One is for sure for fuel vapor from the tank. 
The carb fuel overflow is blocked with a bolt, and it leaks. I think that needs to connect to the canister as well. If not, I need to make it flow to the side somewhere. 

Now that leaves one input, and I have the valve cover and crankcase breather left over. I can connect these with a T and hook it to the third, BUT, when I got the car, the third input was connected to the air filter box. Could it be there for vacuum, or maybe just to grab vapors from the carb?

 Posted: Jan 15, 2019 04:47PM
 Edited:  Jan 15, 2019 04:51PM
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I would agree with Mike and add that there are too many variables to be able to answer questions. I believe there are pictures of your engine on the mini forum UK:

//www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/339278-radiator-flush-drama/

It appears to be an engine with the intact smog equipment from the 70s. The problem is there is no information on the California system for this year as it was never imported.

 Posted: Jan 15, 2019 03:34PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psyb0rg
2. A charcoal canister that has three inlet ports on top. One of them is connected to the fuel tank (for gas vapors). I still have to figure out what the other two connect to. One of them was connected to the air filter box when I got the car, maybe for vapors from the carb? If anyone has info on this then please let me know. 
...
5. Crankcase purge line vents into the valve cover. Maybe this should go to the canister as well, not sure. 

I think your valve cover and crankcase breather are the other two inputs to the catch canister in #2. I can't imagine why the crankcase and valve cover would connect to each other. They are two of the three main crankcase ventilation points. This thread was helpful to me when I was working on my ventilation:
https://www.minimania.com/msgThread/115620/1/1/Crankcase_Ventilation

-------------------------------------------------------------
Scott | 1963 Austin Cooper | 2003 MINI Cooper S | 2018 MINI Cooper 4-door
 Posted: Jan 15, 2019 12:33PM
 Edited:  Jan 15, 2019 12:34PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spank
Quote:
Originally Posted by psyb0rg
Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
 
i am not sure how it got registered in CA the first time as it is newer than what is now accepted but maybe the laws and regulations were different in the 90's.
I have never had to smog a vehicle
What do you mean by weakening the mixture? Running it lean?
 

With no offense intended to malsai, psyb0rg you are focusing on the wrong part of malsai's response to you.

There are areas in California that do not need smog certification. Perhaps (and I'm only postulating and not speaking with any authority) that the previous owner who initially registered it lived in one of those areas that didn't require smog at the time.

Do you know why it was placed on PNO? Could it have been because of the need to smog it?
The PO is a Los Angeles resident, and he virtually swears he had it smogged when it ran. According to him it was parked when carb linkage broke and then he didn't find time to fix it. I have the car running now, but need to replace the fuel pump. 

I think the best thing to do would be to go to a smog center and see what happens. If it fails the visual-parts check, then that's something I'll have to investigate and track parts, etc. But if it fails emissions, I don't know what all I could do except maybe play with the carb tuning. 
I just set the timing by feel and it's running smooth, but I guess I'll check it properly. BTW, how would they test the idle rpm? Should I hook up a tachometer to make sure it's idling right?

 Posted: Jan 15, 2019 11:49AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psyb0rg
Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
 
i am not sure how it got registered in CA the first time as it is newer than what is now accepted but maybe the laws and regulations were different in the 90's.
I have never had to smog a vehicle
What do you mean by weakening the mixture? Running it lean?
 

With no offense intended to malsai, psyb0rg you are focusing on the wrong part of malsai's response to you.

There are areas in California that do not need smog certification. Perhaps (and I'm only postulating and not speaking with any authority) that the previous owner who initially registered it lived in one of those areas that didn't require smog at the time.

Do you know why it was placed on PNO? Could it have been because of the need to smog it?

 Posted: Jan 15, 2019 11:20AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
 
i am not sure how it got registered in CA the first time as it is newer than what is now accepted but maybe the laws and regulations were different in the 90's.
I have never had to smog a vehicle and i am sure there are other things you can do but i have heard that weakening the carb mixture helps, driveability will suck you may need to use a small amount of choke to drive it but you can just reverse the setting once the test is done.
I don't think there is any need for the dashpot heater to work as this is a cold climate addition.  


What do you mean by weakening the mixture? Running it lean?
 

 Posted: Jan 15, 2019 11:12AM
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It's already registered in California, so don't think I will need to do that. 

 Posted: Jan 15, 2019 09:05AM
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my guess you might have to take to the ICI there in Cali,, G and K.. and sure are NOT cheap.. but will guarantee passage..   hope you are sitting down when you get their quote.. 

 Posted: Jan 15, 2019 08:48AM
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I don't think you will be able to get a clear answer to your questions from us here. You are in unfamiliar territory for likely nearly all of us with relation to CA smog and what will or won't pass...

Your best bet for help with what your car's smog equipment should look like when fitted properly is probably something like the same year MGB or Triumph or someone with an unfettered Australian or Canadian mini of that vintage.



My advice is A: Don't use Seafoam in your oil/crankcase. The mini oiling system is one that doesn't always filter 100% of your oil all too well. If you want to dump it in your gas, fine do that. But don't dump it in your oil. B) set you car up to factory specifications for timing and fueling. Do a basic tune up with properly functioning components. C) Report back here the results of your experience so that others can benefit or be educated by your discoveries.

 Posted: Jan 15, 2019 08:10AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psyb0rg
I just bought a 1978 Canadian Mini 1000 in Los Angeles. The car has been in California since 1998 and was registered here, but has been on a PNO (Planned Non Operational) title since 2006. I'm trying to revive it and want to get it off PNO in California. For that, I need to get it smogged. To re-iterate, that car was imported in 1998, registered and driven in California till 2006. I have the old plates, and a valid California title from the previous owner. I was told by the DMV that I just need the smog certificate to remove the PNO, and that I have everything to get the title transferred (which I plan to do in March).

The car has the following equipment that's required for emissions:

1. A smog/air pump running off the crank. The pump connects to the proper intake manifold with two ports through a "gulp valve". 
2. A charcoal canister that has three inlet ports on top. One of them is connected to the fuel tank (for gas vapors). I still have to figure out what the other two connect to. One of them was connected to the air filter box when I got the car, maybe for vapors from the carb? If anyone has info on this then please let me know. 
3. A heater coil on the carb dashpot. Does this need to be in working order for the smog test?
4. An air filter box with a hot air valve thing at the end. I think it's supposed to supply hot air to the carb. Can I just remove the valve?
5. Crankcase purge line vents into the valve cover. Maybe this should go to the canister as well, not sure. 

So my question(s) is, does this all look sufficient to pass the EVAP and visual section of the smog test? Am I missing anything? Also, what can I do to improve the sniffer part of the test? I'm doing a radiator flush, several oil changes with Seafoam (remove all gunk), and have a newly lined gas tank for clean fuel. Apart from carburetor tuning, what else can I do to improve my chances? 

Here's a pic of the mess:


Not for the faint at hear
i am not sure how it got registered in CA the first time as it is newer than what is now accepted but maybe the laws and regulations were different in the 90's.
I have never had to smog a vehicle and i am sure there are other things you can do but i have heard that weakening the carb mixture helps, driveability will suck you may need to use a small amount of choke to drive it but you can just reverse the setting once the test is done.
I don't think there is any need for the dashpot heater to work as this is a cold climate addition.  


If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Jan 15, 2019 07:05AM
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Do search.. someone did the CARB /smog thing on late model classic mini last year.. think they spent $8k to do this..  why NOT just sell this mini and buy PRE 78 one?? later bc

 Posted: Jan 15, 2019 01:11AM
 Edited:  Jan 15, 2019 01:13AM
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I just bought a 1978 Canadian Mini 1000 in Los Angeles. The car has been in California since 1998 and was registered here, but has been on a PNO (Planned Non Operational) title since 2006. I'm trying to revive it and want to get it off PNO in California. For that, I need to get it smogged. To re-iterate, that car was imported in 1998, registered and driven in California till 2006. I have the old plates, and a valid California title from the previous owner. I was told by the DMV that I just need the smog certificate to remove the PNO, and that I have everything to get the title transferred (which I plan to do in March).

The car has the following equipment that's required for emissions:

1. A smog/air pump running off the crank. The pump connects to the proper intake manifold with two ports through a "gulp valve". 
2. A charcoal canister that has three inlet ports on top. One of them is connected to the fuel tank (for gas vapors). I still have to figure out what the other two connect to. One of them was connected to the air filter box when I got the car, maybe for vapors from the carb? If anyone has info on this then please let me know. 
3. A heater coil on the carb dashpot. Does this need to be in working order for the smog test?
4. An air filter box with a hot air valve thing at the end. I think it's supposed to supply hot air to the carb. Can I just remove the valve?
5. Crankcase purge line vents into the valve cover. Maybe this should go to the canister as well, not sure. 

So my question(s) is, does this all look sufficient to pass the EVAP and visual section of the smog test? Am I missing anything? Also, what can I do to improve the sniffer part of the test? I'm doing a radiator flush, several oil changes with Seafoam (remove all gunk), and have a newly lined gas tank for clean fuel. Apart from carburetor tuning, what else can I do to improve my chances? 

Here's a pic of the mess:


Not for the faint at hear