I was hoping for that. Thanks Cheleker.

It is interesting to find the folks at the muscle car shows are extremely interested in verifying an English car is as 100% English as their American cars are 100% American! So I get questions like that. 

MPH is correct for a '68 Mini built in England for England.

To get a bit off the subject, the things not original to my UK '68 may be the speedo. I live in California and at an American muscle car show today, it was pointed out to me that my mini's speedo is in MPH and not KPH (Longbridge original car). I like to take the Mini there to serve as a contrast and I always point out the logic behind the design.

It looks like I have a replacement door (in 2005) and the original door channel, chrome trim and glass was fitted into a new door, hence my stuck-window saga. This is why I believe it is a top channel/bottom channel compression that is causing my windows to stick. 

The paint on the door retro-fit almost matches the original Snowberry.

For other minor body cracks and fender dings I used a minimal amount of Bondo, JB Weld for the blown fender seam (tiny zip ties hold it during curing) and I think my PWG XG6 2005-2011 Chrysler 300 Cool Vanilla touch up paint used is a really close match to the heavily polished (Meguire's # 7) original Snowberry, believe it or not.

The car was a one-owner until 2007 when she was shipped to the states, and was well taken care of and, thankfully, kept as faithful as possible to original. I might mention it is a "his and hers" automatic. 

For the last unoriginal addition, I dared not attempt "fender flares" because I felt replacing the chrome trim pieces would keep the originality in tack and you can't un-do a hole. Replacing the trim pieces was a PITA, but I started with a cool day, a 1,000 watt discarded Conair hair dryer, a butter knife, half a Newcastle and a patient attitude. Started from the rear fender first. This endeavor can be accomplished nicely by a novice like me!

After two months of no-budget body and paint work, she looks well enough to turn the heads of...."car people".

Gosh, if I had to replace one of the windows there would be nothing on my car that’s original.

Thank you. The glass is tough, but I won't push it too hard. It's good to know just in case. 

If you break the glass, I have a set of extras. They been sitting around for a long time so if you need one or two email me

I will send a photo during day light tomorrow. But I think the space between the top rail and bottom rail is compressed as you said. So by releasing the bottom rail the windows will loosen. I will try that if I can locate the screws. I know about the caution in doing this.
The windows are now closed, but I can apply palm pressure on each side and open them each about 3/4 of the way slightly. the driver's side (right-hand drive) is free at least. I am taking the '68 to a car show Saturday so the windows in the closed position for now is preferable. 

IMHO its extremely difficult to diagnose such issues without seeing the parts involved... However,...

Rather than the top edge gripping the glass its more likely (again, IMH that the bottom rail/runner is sitting too high and clamping the glass vertically against the top rail.

The good news (maybe) is that both windows are stuck open.  This means (one hopes) the the glass is clear of the front and rear tracks?????  Can you see/find the screws that keep the bottom rail in place???  If you can remove these, you can push the bottom rail inwards and so lower the windows to release them from the top rail.

Unless, part of the reason that the bottom rail is being pushed up, is the someone used some sort of filler/adhesive under the rail and its now firmly glued in place......

I would be very tempted to try malsals hammer trick .. but what ever you do, don't push the windows fully closed.  Without a back/front edge to push you won't get the windows open again .... and without getting them open you'll never (sic) be able to remove them from the door ....

Cheers, Ian

I am now thinking the door, being replaced, was after-market and the original windows and channel along with the original hardware was installed in the new door to keep it as original as possible. Good thinking, but the new door top lip is too tight against the original windows and channel. I believe it was just poor body work. It looks nice, but doesn't work. 

By using the razor blade method and some white grease I was able to close the windows just in time for fall. I will probably end up taking the '68 to a body shop before next spring or summer, but for now I am happy to have them closed. They are still tight as can be.

If they are original they will have metal and fabric as Ian pointed out and a razor blade will be of no use on the metal, but if it is just the fabric holding it it may work.
They will move easily if you use the hammer/wood method i posted it just needs a shock movement to break them loose, just don't hit them full whack just lightly.

So just a straight-edged razor blade? I will try that today! Thanks for the tip.

I have not thought of that.

Probably if I felt lucky I would try to use bigger tools, but with the luck I have I would just end up with a broken 50 year-old Mini window and stitches. 

Use a flat razor.. along the glass and chunk it down into the rubber strips.

More than likely over time  the rubber has degraded and turned tacky to the glass that is pinched in the channel.
  Using the razor on both sides could free up the tacky rubber strips holding the glass in place.  They could still be stuck on the very bottom but your hoping to free it up just enough to slide again.
 
from there it probably will re stick = and your choice to replace the rubber.

 I have this occouring on my 63.  once you free them up they work again, but after sitting get sticky again too.

Lubrication does not seem to help at all. The dealerships in my area only want to sell new cars so I don't bother with them. They don't even like servicing their own cars older than 3 years old out here.

Same with the paint shops. That's why I don't like any car newer than 25 years old. I have my old Chevy truck and my 50 year-old Mini and I am happy with them.

I will keep plugging away with the windows. Probably need to get a new channel.

Some pictures may help. If you are planning on replacing the runners which may be a good idea at this point do whatever you need to besides braking the glass to free them up. Maybe before you hit them with a hammer and wood cushion as i suggested cut a piece of fuel line and fit it over the edge of the glass to protect it, i know it sounds a bit brutal but sometimes you have to resort to these measures. I had one screw that i could not drill out and ended up using a very old well made scraper with a sharp edge, inserted between the chrome casing and top of the door ledge i hit it maybe 3 times and sheared it off. 

Don’t agree that this would be a good idea.... The channels I’ve seen ..original or aftermarket are clutch/rubber.. I don’t think they’d like a liberal coating of oil...

A dealer friend once told me about some weird stuff - I think he called it Maltese grease?????  His stealership used it when customers complained of squeally or stiff windows on their dailies.

Maybe go ask the local Honda/Chev/Ford... whatever ... dealer what they use to free up sticky windows.

My thoughts are that you’re more likely to have perished rubber stuck to the glass (if you have aftermarket channels) or the glass has jammed against the lower channel retaining screws if you have original metal/fabric channels....

I have (old) replacement rubber channels on the upper side and these shrink with age/heat giving a death grip on the glass.  Doesn’t seem to be any fix short of replacement.

Cheers, Ian

That is a good idea, thank you. I will try that penetrating oil soak and keep you posted onetim.

Then I think I would soak the upper and lower slides with penetrating fluid, perhaps multiple times, over several days. Then go back to tapping with the wood block. Intresting problem from a distance, sorry 

Yes, I removed the two latches. The windows stayed stuck still.

You did remove the latches, it's just 2 screws. They are intended to lock the glass in the open/closed position, and if broken internally will not lift the pin to release the glass to slide.

It is apparent the top lip of the door is too tight against the window although there is no indication of a collision and no bondo.