Rear brake shoes possibly glazed
Created by: mediumcool
Found 30 Messages
Total posts: 3345
Last post: Mar 8, 2024 Member since:Jul 20, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by mediumcool
I am a sponge when it comes to learning the old Minis and I appreciate the advice!
I am assuming you are referring to the lug nuts.
I am assuming you are referring to the lug nuts.
Total posts: 99
Last post: Nov 18, 2018 Member since:Sep 10, 2018
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
I am a sponge when it comes to learning the old Minis and I appreciate the advice!
I am assuming you are referring to the lug nuts.
I am assuming you are referring to the lug nuts.
Total posts: 3345
Last post: Mar 8, 2024 Member since:Jul 20, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by mediumcool
That is excellent instruction, thank you. I am pretty good with a wrench, but just like to be prepared before-hand.
I am more used to American "Star-Wheels".
I do have a 5/16" standard wrench, but am careful.
I am more used to American "Star-Wheels".
I do have a 5/16" standard wrench, but am careful.
My apologies if you already knew this...
Total posts: 99
Last post: Nov 18, 2018 Member since:Sep 10, 2018
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
That is excellent instruction, thank you. I am pretty good with a wrench, but just like to be prepared before-hand.
I am more used to American "Star-Wheels".
I do have a 5/16" standard wrench, but am careful.
I am more used to American "Star-Wheels".
I do have a 5/16" standard wrench, but am careful.
Total posts: 10232
Last post: Mar 26, 2024 Member since:Mar 24, 1999
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by mediumcool
So it is alright if the wheel can only be spun by hand one revolution before it stops?
In other words, after I make the 1/4 turn adjustments and feel the flat spot I spin the wheel
and let it go on its own until it stops at one Rev? Then after both rears are complete, adjust the
hand brake?
In other words, after I make the 1/4 turn adjustments and feel the flat spot I spin the wheel
and let it go on its own until it stops at one Rev? Then after both rears are complete, adjust the
hand brake?
Total posts: 10330
Last post: Jan 27, 2021 Member since:Dec 3, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
See DkLawson's post on the 21st.
Total posts: 99
Last post: Nov 18, 2018 Member since:Sep 10, 2018
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
So it is alright if the wheel can only be spun by hand one revolution before it stops?
In other words, after I make the 1/4 turn adjustments and feel the flat spot I spin the wheel
and let it go on its own until it stops at one Rev? Then after both rears are complete, adjust the
hand brake?
In other words, after I make the 1/4 turn adjustments and feel the flat spot I spin the wheel
and let it go on its own until it stops at one Rev? Then after both rears are complete, adjust the
hand brake?
Total posts: 10232
Last post: Mar 26, 2024 Member since:Mar 24, 1999
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
At the rear the adjusters are simple screw-in to tighten - clockwise on both. As it starts to get tight you'll know instantly what we mean about going one flat or 1/4 turn at a time, and you'll feel the reistance drop off as you wiggle the spanner to find the flat spot.
(Front drums are a bit trickier).
(Front drums are a bit trickier).
Total posts: 99
Last post: Nov 18, 2018 Member since:Sep 10, 2018
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Does it matter if I turn the adjuster clockwise or counter clockwise to adjust the shoes in closer to the drum to compensate for the wear?
Also, how will I know when the cone is seated in the right position? These are the two mysteries that occur to me when I get under the old '68.
Also, how will I know when the cone is seated in the right position? These are the two mysteries that occur to me when I get under the old '68.
Total posts: 10232
Last post: Mar 26, 2024 Member since:Mar 24, 1999
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
If you don't go the full 1/4 turn and settle the adjuster on the flat of the taper it WILL back off again, seen it many times. Setting the cone on the cant will work short term though.
Hopefully the picture will help you assimilate what's going on inside the drum - as you screw the cone inwards it pushes the tappets and the brake shoes out closer to the drum.
Hopefully the picture will help you assimilate what's going on inside the drum - as you screw the cone inwards it pushes the tappets and the brake shoes out closer to the drum.
Total posts: 99
Last post: Nov 18, 2018 Member since:Sep 10, 2018
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
My slight adjustment with the shoes coupled with the slight adjustment of the two hand-brake cables resulted in better braking and an E-brake that holds with three clicks.
What works, works.
I thank you all!
What works, works.
I thank you all!
Total posts: 9528
Last post: Mar 27, 2024 Member since:Aug 14, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by h_lankford
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Moffet
Harvey: I believe you. It may also have been a sticking brake cable.
My garage is also dead level. However, I do use the handbrake every time on all our vehicles. I ascribe to the theory of keeping things moving so they don't stiffen up. The lady I referred to probably didn't use her's enough and it got stiff with lack of use. (I think she admitted so.)
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
Total posts: 1007
Last post: Jul 19, 2022 Member since:Jul 24, 2014
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Quote:
Originally Posted by h_lankford
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Moffet
Harvey: I believe you. It may also have been a sticking brake cable.
Total posts: 2036
Last post: Mar 27, 2024 Member since:Aug 29, 2001
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Moffet
Harvey: I believe you. It may also have been a sticking brake cable.
Total posts: 99
Last post: Nov 18, 2018 Member since:Sep 10, 2018
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
That makes sense Dan. As I mentioned earlier, That first drive home, I was so pre-occupied with the carb adjustment and dealing with the typical behavior a decades old car exhibits after sitting for months, I left the hand brake on several miles before noticing it. I guess I'll need to get new drums at some point. For now the rear brakes seem to work a little better and I do not feel any pulsating. I think like most drum brake set ups, the front brakes do most of the work. The weird thing is, I felt no drag going forward with the handbrake on, but I smelled burning rubber. Needless to say I feel I know a lot more about this classic Mini than I did on day one. I took 4 years auto shop in high school and my first job was a used car mechanic. I have had old American classics and built them from rusted hulks so that was just a rookie mistake made by me, an over-confident and forgetful old fart.
Total posts: 9528
Last post: Mar 27, 2024 Member since:Aug 14, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
Harvey: I believe you. It may also have been a sticking brake cable. When we lived in an apartment with a large parking structure, as we were getting to our car, we could hear a continuous tire squeal approaching us. The VW Rabbit stopped near us for the garage door to open and the car was very reluctant to move. I spoke to the driver, telling her she was dragging a wheel. She had left it parked with the handbrake applied. I told her to pull up as hard as she could on it and then release it. That "cracked" the stuck cable free and she was able to drive. I advised her to not use it again until she got it seized.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
Total posts: 9528
Last post: Mar 27, 2024 Member since:Aug 14, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
It may not be apparent to a first-timer, but the working end of the adjuster is a square-ish pyramid shape with the edges rounded off. To do the adjustment properly, it needs to be a multiple of quarter turns so the shoes rest on the flat sides, not on rounded edges.
The "swoosh-swoosh" sound indicates your brake drum is not perfectly round. One cause of this is leaving the handbrake on while the brakes were hot. It souldn't be much of a concern unless you feel pulsation or judge when braking.
The "swoosh-swoosh" sound indicates your brake drum is not perfectly round. One cause of this is leaving the handbrake on while the brakes were hot. It souldn't be much of a concern unless you feel pulsation or judge when braking.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
Total posts: 99
Last post: Nov 18, 2018 Member since:Sep 10, 2018
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
When i jacked up the '68 and rolled the rear wheel (I did one side at a time), each wheel made a "shoop.....shoop" sound and the wheel stopped after about two and a half revolutions. Shoop....shoop meaning drum contact, then no contact, then contact.
The adjuster nut is in perfect, albeit slightly rusty condition so that tells me no novice ever adjusted the brakes. I bought a 5/16" wrench and used that. However i could not get the wheels to stop after a half turn so i left it alone so I would not get in over my head with the adjusting.
The rule of thumb seems to be you should not have to turn the nut but slightly. Then I adjusted up the hand brake and after three clicks it now holds. Sorry to sound like an idiot, i am a pretty good "spannerist" otherwise.
Any thoughts on this?
The adjuster nut is in perfect, albeit slightly rusty condition so that tells me no novice ever adjusted the brakes. I bought a 5/16" wrench and used that. However i could not get the wheels to stop after a half turn so i left it alone so I would not get in over my head with the adjusting.
The rule of thumb seems to be you should not have to turn the nut but slightly. Then I adjusted up the hand brake and after three clicks it now holds. Sorry to sound like an idiot, i am a pretty good "spannerist" otherwise.
Any thoughts on this?
Total posts: 2036
Last post: Mar 27, 2024 Member since:Aug 29, 2001
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by mediumcool
I need to sand down my rear shoes on the '68. When I first drove it home I left the hand brake on and there was little drag, but the smell of burning rubber stamp (I used to work in a print shop) commenced until after a couple of miles before I let off the hand brake. I'm not an idiot, but felt like one at that moment. The brakes had been professionally replaced five years hence and the car was barely driven after that.
I will use 80 grit and readjust after the sand-off. Does my '68 Austin Mini (not a Cooper) have any sensitivities I need to be aware of other than just turning the adjusters? Do I positively need to turn the drums and what would indicate they need turning again if they were turned at the last brake replacement?
I will use 80 grit and readjust after the sand-off. Does my '68 Austin Mini (not a Cooper) have any sensitivities I need to be aware of other than just turning the adjusters? Do I positively need to turn the drums and what would indicate they need turning again if they were turned at the last brake replacement?
It was so tight that I had to power the car out of the garage dragging the rear wheel, one worse than the other.
I backed off the adjustment 3 or 4 notches. Later, when the weather dried out, I rechecked the rear brakes. They were as loose as could be, so I re-tightened them back to where they originally were. It happened again with another humid /rainy spell. I have had to leave them a looser than the usual adjustment recommendation because of this.
Some of you may not believe this story.
Total posts: 9241
Last post: Aug 17, 2023 Member since:Jun 5, 2000
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
And remember that "adjusted" does not mean free spinning. You want to adjust the rear brakes until they lock, then back off one "click" at a time until you can hear a bit of brake drag and when you try to spin the roadwheel it should stop in a little over one revolution. Leaving the shoes loose will result in excessive pedal travel.
Doug L.
Found 30 Messages