Fender Flares, Primer/Paint Help
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Sep 8, 2018 09:41PM | highfade | |
Sep 8, 2018 12:50PM | thewerewolf | |
Sep 8, 2018 12:19PM | bluedragon | |
Sep 8, 2018 09:09AM | highfade | |
Sep 8, 2018 08:47AM | Minimike1 | |
Sep 7, 2018 11:43PM | highfade |
Total posts: 19
Last post: Nov 8, 2018 Member since:Jun 21, 2011
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@thewerewolf, I'm in Las Vegas and this project is going to be as DIY as I can possibly make it. Painting is something I've always wanted to learn and I've taught myself a lot of random things so I love the trial and error process. Also, I just got done building my 99 GSX so I've gained the confidence to tackle my mini with the help of this forum and a lot of internet searching of course, lol.
Thanks to everyone as always. This forum rocks.
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Last post: Oct 29, 2019 Member since:Oct 4, 2013
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Total posts: 1309
Last post: Feb 13, 2024 Member since:Jan 28, 2005
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Hello again, I’m back for more advice from the mini experts.
As you can see from my profile pic and the link images my little beauty is in need of some TLC. Mechanically I couldn’t be happier, the previous owner spared no expense and she runs and rides like a champ. Outside it’s another story, lol.
What I need opinions and help on are a few things because I like gathering as much info as possible,
- 1. The fender flares (wheel arches) are fiberglass, the Fortech Kit I believe, and the body is, you guessed it, metal. I’m going to roughen the surface before priming but I’m finding mixed messages as far as primer goes. Should I use and epoxy primer because I’m dealing with multiple surface materials or is a urethane primer good enough?
- Thanks in advance for any help, I appreciate it, I'd rather ask the simple questions now and triple check everything before I screw something up.
You may end up getting both anyway. If you choose the epoxy primer, and find that the flares need finishing work to make them perfectly smooth, you might end up wanting a high-build (heavy thickness) primer for sanding and leveling purposes. These are typically urethane primers. Epoxies aren't high-build primers for leveling surface defects.
- 2. Speaking of the Flares, they have been riveted on. I’m going to use an undercoating on the bottom of the car and inside the wheel arches but am torn on whether I should drill out the rivets to prime every surface and then reattach. Or can I finish the rivet job, prime everything, undercoat and then seal the gap between the car and flares? Thoughts?
- 3. Any experience or thoughts on using acrylic lacquer auto paint compared to the single stage? Again, I’m torn between the base/clear coat vs the single stage. I live in Vegas so there is no avoiding the sun so I’m curious as to anyone’s experience with durability and UV holdup.
- 4. Last thing, any clear instructions floating around on attaching the Flares without using rivets. I’ve seen pics of lots of different flares and they seem to blend into the body, including the actual Fortech race cars, is this done with an adhesive to hold the flares in place and then fiberglass or body filler to blend before prime/paint?
I'd use epoxy primer wherever bare metal is encountered.
Total posts: 19
Last post: Nov 8, 2018 Member since:Jun 21, 2011
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Cars in Garage: 0
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Makes sense about the flares not being attached permanently for repair reasons, the one good thing is that I know the rivets are stainless steel, the previous owner included a box with the car to finish off the process but I really like the idea of being able to take them on and off.
I'd think using rivnuts (aka threaded inserts) for the screws over something like Teks Screws would be the correct way to approach removable flares, correct?
Paint makes sense too.
Thanks again!!!
Total posts: 6908
Last post: Dec 4, 2023 Member since:Feb 26, 1999
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rivets made of aluminum will cause a galvanic reaction and eventually become the sacrificial metal when in contact with another metal.
You could attach the flares with stainless sheet metal screws. Flares get broken and I'd personally rather not have to remove a bonded flare from the fender. Bondo'd or glued.
Two stage paint is easier to do touchups. Color is blended into defect and the clear makes it invisible.
Total posts: 19
Last post: Nov 8, 2018 Member since:Jun 21, 2011
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Hello again, I’m back for more advice from the mini experts.
As you can see from my profile pic and the link images my little beauty is in need of some TLC. Mechanically I couldn’t be happier, the previous owner spared no expense and she runs and rides like a champ. Outside it’s another story, lol.
What I need opinions and help on are a few things because I like gathering as much info as possible,
- 1. The fender flares (wheel arches) are fiberglass, the Fortech Kit I believe, and the body is, you guessed it, metal. I’m going to roughen the surface before priming but I’m finding mixed messages as far as primer goes. Should I use and epoxy primer because I’m dealing with multiple surface materials or is a urethane primer good enough?
- 2. Speaking of the Flares, they have been riveted on. I’m going to use an undercoating on the bottom of the car and inside the wheel arches but am torn on whether I should drill out the rivets to prime every surface and then reattach. Or can I finish the rivet job, prime everything, undercoat and then seal the gap between the car and flares? Thoughts?
- 3. Any experience or thoughts on using acrylic lacquer auto paint compared to the single stage? Again, I’m torn between the base/clear coat vs the single stage. I live in Vegas so there is no avoiding the sun so I’m curious as to anyone’s experience with durability and UV holdup.
- 4. Last thing, any clear instructions floating around on attaching the Flares without using rivets. I’ve seen pics of lots of different flares and they seem to blend into the body, including the actual Fortech race cars, is this done with an adhesive to hold the flares in place and then fiberglass or body filler to blend before prime/paint?
Thanks in advance for any help, I appreciate it, I'd rather ask the simple questions now and triple check everything before I screw something up.