'72 Front bearings replaced but still have play on it
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The only thing to watch is don't press the inner seal in too far or it fouls on the bearing inner.
Cooper S has a thicker seal spacer but you can use 2x drum brake ones, or just eyeball it is square when fitted.
The drum when mounted will be a couple off mm further out but it's not a problem at all.
If using non-Timken tapered rollers be aware the inner bearing spacer is often incorrect. if too thick (bearings loose) face it off to get about .001" preload on assembly. If too thin pick another from your collection, or get some made, they are only unhardened steel.
Kevin G
1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.
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I tested some appalling bearings for Mini Spares about 4 years ago (which were on sale by another name as genuine) and the rear ones lasted less than 60 miles... The front ball-bearing bearings lasted ~150 even with proper grease rather than the lumpy water supplied in the sachets. You may need to convert to taper roller bearings.
Hi Alex,
The bearings are purchased from a reputable source and are branded and edtched. I also compared the dimensions, old vs new, with a slide caliper.
According to my research you can't convert drumbrakes to taper roller bearings.
This weekend a going to take it all apart again and will compare it with complete spare drumbrake hub.
Scott | 1963 Austin Cooper | 2003 MINI Cooper S | 2018 MINI Cooper 4-door
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The front wheel bearings for the Cooper "S" were all originally these 'roller' bearing style. The design of the roller rather than the more common ball bearing is such that they will last much longer under higher side loading. Thus as we have developed wider rims and stickier tires it is becoming increasing critical to use roller in both the front and rear of all Minis. These bearings are not only stock in the "S" but are also a direct replacement for the ball bearing type as found on most other Minis.
So presumably, these bearings can be fitted to drum brake cars.
1976 1000 (Current Project)
1975 1000 Donor
1969 Cooper (Future Project)
1971 Opel GT
1972 Corvette Stingray
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Did you measure the built-in spacer and overall width of both the old and the new bearings for comparison before fitting ?
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I tested some appalling bearings for Mini Spares about 4 years ago (which were on sale by another name as genuine) and the rear ones lasted less than 60 miles... The front ball-bearing bearings lasted ~150 even with proper grease rather than the lumpy water supplied in the sachets. You may need to convert to taper roller bearings.
Hi Alex,
The bearings are purchased from a reputable source and are branded and edtched. I also compared the dimensions, old vs new, with a slide caliper.
According to my research you can't convert drumbrakes to taper roller bearings.
This weekend a going to take it all apart again and will compare it with complete spare drumbrake hub.
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I tested some appalling bearings for Mini Spares about 4 years ago (which were on sale by another name as genuine) and the rear ones lasted less than 60 miles... The front ball-bearing bearings lasted ~150 even with proper grease rather than the lumpy water supplied in the sachets. You may need to convert to taper roller bearings.
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Hi Guys thanks for trying to help me out, this is appreciated !
unfortunately, the suggestions contradict with the fact the assembly had no play before I replaced the bearings.
Bad batch of bearings? I already ruled this out by using a different brand.
it all looks impossible but I hope to find the problem in the end, and then I will probably bang my head against the wall
to be continued...
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Hi there,
I own a '72 mini with original front drum brakes. Because a bearing made to much "noise" for M.O.T. it needed to be replaced. I decided to replace them all front & back.
but now getting problems with the front.
The bearings that came out were the SKF BA2B 417387 (with build in spacer). I replaced those with part number GHK1018. (The code on the box is VKBA 727V)
Now both wheels on the front have movement, with the center nut tightened above normal.
i scratched my head and the only thing i could think of was a bad batch of bearings, so i replaced one side with a different brand but also ghk1018 of course. But same problem !
when you tilt the wheel you can see movement between in inner ring and the outer ring of the bearing. to visualize, like the bearing balls are way to small.
I really don't know what to do...
anyone a clue?
help is much appreciated !