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 Posted: Mar 26, 2019 04:35PM
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Recently I found quite a few Hydrolastic suspension topics on mk1-forum.net.
most are in the Technical Talk section.
One such topic addresses testing the displacers when they are off the car.
the topic is “Make your own Hydrolastic testing adapter”

It references this document.
//mk1-performance-conversions.co.uk/pdf/hydrolastic_testing.pdf

Low pressure air (50-70 psi) is pumped into the displacer.  The displacer is then placed in
water to check for air bubbles.

I may try using the hydro elbow fitting from the subframe putting a plug on the end
to which the front/rear pipe is fitted. I will use my bicycle pump and 50 psi.

Roger Williams
 Posted: Dec 30, 2018 04:47PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whee
I'd love to be proved wrong, but I don't believe there is a realistic method of testing off the car. 
I have heard that //www.kipmotor.com/About_KMC.htm in Dallas will refurbish and in the UK https://www.minimail.co.uk
Maybe this is not so realistic, but if you have as much junk...errr...fine vintage MK1 parts as I have, you can make a clamped wooden frame and pressurize your hydros against some old rubber cones.

see my how-to in the thread here //elf-hornet.forumotion.com/t1303-hydrolastic-keep-repairing-or-change-to-dry-cone?highlight=hydrolastic

I just wanted to fix the leaks, pressurize them, and confirm that I had no leaks before reinstalling them in the car.  But since it took longer than expected, I decided to write that novel.  Yeah I know, less words, more pics would be better.

Its been years since I visited that link, all my Imageshack pics went byebye.  I think I have found and replaced most of them, now on postimage.org. 

 Posted: Nov 30, 2018 03:33AM
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3/8 OD tube, 60deg female flare.
Note the flare nuts are 5/8-18UNF. Don't forget to fit them on first, haha.

Kevin G

1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.

 Posted: Nov 5, 2018 02:16PM
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I am considering using copper/nickel pipe and bending and installing myself.
what type of flare is used on the ends?

Roger Williams
 Posted: Oct 21, 2018 06:39PM
 Edited:  Oct 22, 2018 03:25PM
kd
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CA
The flexible nylon ones from the UK are great. In Canada we bring the units to a
hydraulic tractor  service centers and they can fit new hoses no problem.

Keith & Deb

Avatar:Turn 1 at the Glen

 Posted: Oct 19, 2018 04:42PM
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Cost of shipping preshaped pipes seems to be more than the cost of the pipes themselves.
For now I may go with the cheapest option - nylon flexible with fittings.

Roger Williams
 Posted: Oct 16, 2018 03:25AM
 Edited:  Dec 24, 2018 02:24AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerOtto
The subframe is off the car.
Just removed the hydro unit from the subframe.
how do I “flush” them?
1.Hold upside down. Push the knuckle joint end of the bag in. Release. Repeat until all the fluid has come out of the hose.
2. Stand bag upright and modify a small funnel to fit into the hose end. I used  a trimmed filler cartridge nozzle.
Support hose vertical.
3. Fill funnel with coolant, I use 25% glycol and water for flushing. Gently push end of bag inwards to displace air bubbles by pushing bag down.
4. Top up funnel as needed and repeat until no more bubbles.
Repeat above steps until fluid runs clear. It may take 4 or more repeats.

I then fill with 50/50 glycol and de-ionised water and cap the hose end. Thread is 5/8-18 UNF.
-------------
Re the hoses, I fit new ones by cutting the barb off the bag with a dremel, I then drill and tap 1/8 BSP x 5/16 deep. Use grease on the drill and tap, drill at low speed. Over there you can use NP threads.
I screw a 1/8x3/8 nipple in with Loctite 262. Hose is Pirtek MPH-06 with a 3/8 BSP nut and 3/8 tail crimped on bottom with a brass crimp sleeve.
Top of hose I used original 5/8-18 fittings with a brass crimp sleeve. Crimps done by Pirtek.



Note- the hoses in this pic are original ones, cut about 1" above the barb fitting. So, still look original when installed.

[EDIT)] I test the bag for leaks in a rear subframe corner off cut, with some 3" square tube welded across it. At 280 psi.

Kevin G

1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.

 Posted: Oct 15, 2018 03:50PM
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The subframe is off the car.
Just removed the hydro unit from the subframe.
how do I “flush” them?

Roger Williams
 Posted: Oct 14, 2018 05:47PM
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US
Image Gallery
ALl the couplings and pipe ends on hydro assemblies use a 'not normal' thread and pitch. If you visit a hydrolic shop they will scratch their head and not know what to do.
 Pre made pipes remvoe alot of 'Pipe bending' labor.. from the equation

On the 66 I worked with we got the pre bent pipes from supplier .had all ends and flares in place. = and suprisingly they fit in and fit up well. Bends were very close and only required  some aditionalonal movement to fit into the body clamps.
 You will have to remove the subframes to get the pipes run properly against the body to every location.
 
FLush all the hydro bags and lines really well before further pressurinzing. Trash will get into the shrader valves and at 200+ PSI .. youll loose all your fluid and work.

 Posted: Oct 12, 2018 09:40AM
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Several options 

1) preformed pipes from mini mania (pricey)
2) nylon flexible pipe, no fittings (cheapest)
3) copper tubing, 2 pieces with fittings (less pricey)
4) steel pipe copper lined, no fittings (second cheapest)

trying to balance cost and originality.


Roger Williams
 Posted: Oct 12, 2018 06:02AM
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just thinking  out the box.. ?? can the hydro pipes not be made?? if you have length and fitting on the end.. I bet my local  brake guy can make them..  later  bc

 Posted: Oct 12, 2018 01:11AM
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Hydragas and Hydrolastic Service Ltd (Ian and Dawn Kennedy) on Facebook in the UK appear to do all sorts of repairs on hydro parts.

Car engines make CO2 and trees absorb CO2. By running your engine you're feeding a tree and helping the environment.

 Posted: Oct 11, 2018 04:09PM
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I need to replace my hydrolastic pipes which run front to back.
the original steel pipes have holes and breaks.

Trying to keep the ‘66 S as original as possible.
what is the recommended option?

Roger Williams
 Posted: Jul 29, 2018 11:30AM
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very different?/ can NOT be much difference if they use the SAME fluid , which btw is 50/50 anti freeze and water..

 Posted: Jul 29, 2018 08:01AM
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GB

MGFs have Hydragas not Hydrolastic - pressurised nitrogen spheres as springs instead of rubber in the displacers.

Similar system in theory but very different in actuality.  Both systems use the same fluid for interconnecting and pumps for pressurising though.

 Posted: Jul 28, 2018 05:43PM
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jedduh. I bought proper Hydro pump from MGF guys in the UK. for 53 quid.. works like champ.. and they also refurbished hydro bags.. as all MGF have them.. let me look up the phone number and website.. they put in touch with www.remotealarms.com do redo the keys FOBs and re set the door code on my friend MGF.. later bc

 Posted: Jul 28, 2018 02:23PM
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US
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I have loaded and 'pressureized bags  locked in a vice .  Plumb up a high pressure fitting arrangement and pump to 250 PSI.   
 Worked with a 66 s Restoration from 'refurbished' bags from Kip motor = unfortnuatly one was defective straight back..  and now a second is leaking after about a year of being installed-  They're simply OLD and leaking from the rubber to metal connections not just the rubber hose.
Email me directly if you want some more direction or advise.. Unless this is a concorse car restoration  think about going Dry Suspension. its a headache.

Primary pumping tool = Clutch Master Cylnder. Mated to a PSI Gauge - 300 PSI =  then adapted to a hydrolic hose to a 'shrader tire valve.

 Posted: Jul 28, 2018 02:20PM
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If the flex lines are in good shape and there is not a lot of rust rattling around inside give the ones you have a try. Do not send them to Kip for refurb. I did that and had two fail. Kip is very expensive and very slow. Benchtop refurb as you see online or good condition NOS is the way to go. 

 Posted: Jul 28, 2018 02:16PM
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US
Roger,

Have you removed the hydro bags from the subframes yet?  Once you extract them from the subframes you'll be able to see the overall condition of them.  Whether they are rust damaged or simply old.  As Whee noted, there are few placed who rehab these, which amounts to replacing rotten hoses only.  No one cuts hydro bags open to repair internal damage (from rusty fluid).  So if your bags look ok on the outside, that's the first step.

From there you can submerge them in your bathtub  and move the bellows back and forth to see what rusty mess comes out.  If its not so much, lucky you.  The internals might be just fine.  Hose replacement can be done at home if you're handy, assuming you have hydraulic hose shops where you live to source hose and crimp fittings.  

I'm simplifying but it's been done and it works.  If you need more detail once you've ascertained the overall condition of your bags/hoses, I can send you more information, pics, etc. 

 Posted: Jul 28, 2018 07:00AM
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US
I'd love to be proved wrong, but I don't believe there is a realistic method of testing off the car. 
I have heard that //www.kipmotor.com/About_KMC.htm in Dallas will refurbish and in the UK https://www.minimail.co.uk

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