more clutch adjustment issues
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Jul 30, 2018 07:27AM | Dan Moffet | |
Jul 30, 2018 06:44AM | OKMini | |
Jul 23, 2018 04:58AM | malsal | |
Jul 23, 2018 04:42AM | onetim | |
Jul 23, 2018 02:25AM | Dan Moffet | |
Jul 22, 2018 09:24PM | OKMini | |
Jul 22, 2018 08:23PM | croc7 | Edited: Jul 22, 2018 08:29PM |
Jul 22, 2018 11:44AM | OKMini | |
Jul 21, 2018 08:43AM | OKMini | |
Jul 21, 2018 12:23AM | 1963SV2 | Edited: Jul 21, 2018 12:26AM |
Jul 20, 2018 03:09PM | Cheleker | |
Jul 20, 2018 11:23AM | Jemal | |
Jul 20, 2018 08:26AM | malsal | |
Jul 20, 2018 08:23AM | onetim | |
Jul 20, 2018 07:53AM | OKMini |
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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No vacuum leaks that I could find, but I did suspect too much mixture getting by the throttle disc.
I did a couple of things over the weekend:
First, since the throat of the carb was pretty pitted around where the disc seats, I put down a thin layer of JB Weld and worked it with some small files and sand paper until I got a good seal. I also took a spare disc and removed and soldered over the over-run valve and the small top hole on the disc - effectively creating a solid disc. With the reduced flow, I now have a nice even idle within spec. We'll see if this results in any drivability issues but so far none.
It runs a bit lean though mid rpm still, so will look at swapping out the ADD needle for something better suited to the car.
1976 1000 (Current Project)
1975 1000 Donor
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If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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I've got an air/fuel setup due to arrive tomorrow and once I get that in I'll know better where I stand with it. I will likely need a different needle and settings. Other than the idle, it seems to be running well.
1976 1000 (Current Project)
1975 1000 Donor
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Having tried just about all I can think of this morning I took the pedal out to see if I could remove the 1 mm of slop at the MC piston fork.. Spent a few hours welding up the hole and re-drilling it perfectly round and putting in a new pin. 1 mm of slop pretty much gone.
After a few hits and misses with different settings I disassembled everything and started from square one. 0.5 mm gap on return bolt, I had my wife hold the clutch in while I set the stop at just meeting the housing plus one flat.
She starts it up and it goes into all gears including reverse with no issues. Woohoo!.
We get ready to go for a drive but wait....I have to put the return spring back on the slave cylinder.
Done, now car won't go into any gear!
Took the spring off and went for a nice drive. When I got back I put a throttle return spring on it since the brand new ridiculously strong slave cylinder spring seems to have been the issue, or at least part of it.
Now onto figuring out why it won't idle less than 1,400 rpm even with the idle screw all the way out. More to come on that..
1976 1000 (Current Project)
1975 1000 Donor
1969 Cooper (Future Project)
1971 Opel GT
1972 Corvette Stingray
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1976 1000 (Current Project)
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Peel back the boot at the end of slave cylinder so that you can see the slave piston. Have attractive assistant press clutch pedal to floor while you watch the slave piston. Does the piston touch the C clip retainer at the outer end of the slave bore? if yes THEN you need a longer push rod, if no then a longer rod will buy you nothing.
You didn't mention renewing the clutch lever/release bearing carrier? If the slave piston is not restricted by the C clip then a new lever/carrier won't buy you anything either. If it is, then a new lever/carrier may improve things .... a bit.
Try a drive (don't touch the overthrow nuts/don't replace the slave spring) ..is the problem solved?
If not, you might buy a small improvement by allowing a bit more pedal travel by removing/thinning the carpet between the depressed pedal and the firewall.
If you've removed all the slack/wear (3 pins AND the holes they ride in, clutch arm ball AND the hole in the carrier it presses on), made sure that travel is not restricted by the overthrow nuts or the slave C clip, minimised the carpet under the pedal then things get bit more complex if you want more travel.
Options include a larger master bore, smaller slave cyl bore or a longer clutch arm (unfortunately the slave to arm pushrod doesn't have anything to contribute at this stage).
As for question 2.... for your problem.... no. Having the straps parallel is not the required outcome; you need to have the diaphragm spring "flat". This is a good idea as this will reduce pedal pressure and make the clutch more effective.
Cheers, Ian
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It's been quite a while since I've had any clutch renewal work at 0.20" on the return stop. The accuracy of the parts just ain't like the olde days.
If you're pedal is too close to the floor simply move the return stop bolt out more. Start with 3 to 6 flats. Just don't move the bolt out too far causing the throw out bearing to ride on the clutch spring all the time. I had to go three full turns on one car, but almost all get working correctly before 12 flats.
All the above assumes all the clutch parts are assembled correctly and that the clutch master and slave are bled well.
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I believe it is Cooper Tune/Steve who notches his clutch or brake pedals then re welds them to get them the same height.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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The car has a new master cylinder, slave cylinder, rubber hose, TO bearing, disc and diaphram. Basically all new. There is no slop or wear in any of the usual points of concern. The MC has been bled and has no air.
I've set the return stop to .020 and adjusted the other nuts to 1/8" travel per some suggestions. Setting it per the manual gave worse results.
1. what else can be done to raise the pedal height short of bending the pedal? Reduce the thickness of the bulkhead gasket?
2. Also I am curious on the impact of the friction plate straps. I did notice that mine are not parallel to the flywheel. Can anyone tell me for certain whether adding spacers under the attachment bolts to correct this would impact the engagement?
1976 1000 (Current Project)
1975 1000 Donor
1969 Cooper (Future Project)
1971 Opel GT
1972 Corvette Stingray