Clutch adjustment gone BAD
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Jun 21, 2018 04:25AM | 1967minicooper | |
Jun 20, 2018 04:42AM | Minimike1 | |
Jun 19, 2018 07:28PM | 1963SV2 | |
Jun 19, 2018 06:18PM | helpmymini | |
Jun 19, 2018 06:05PM | 1967minicooper | |
Jun 19, 2018 05:54PM | Hunter2 | |
Jun 19, 2018 04:59PM | Spitz | |
Jun 19, 2018 04:53PM | Minimike1 | Edited: Jun 19, 2018 04:58PM |
Jun 19, 2018 03:51PM | 1967minicooper | |
Jun 19, 2018 03:45PM | 1967minicooper |
Total posts: 84
Last post: Mar 23, 2021 Member since:Feb 12, 2013
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Total posts: 6909
Last post: Apr 13, 2024 Member since:Feb 26, 1999
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
Total posts: 1716
Last post: Oct 18, 2020 Member since:Oct 18, 2011
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
If you remove the spring the clutch becomes self adjusting.
However, there are two issues that need to be considered.
1. When you bleed the slave its not unusual for a bubble of air to get trapped at the back (piston) end of the cylinder..fluid comes in from the master brushes past the air bubble and exits the bleeder. The clear fluid coming out is taken as a sign that all the air is gone....But its not.... So I always start the bleeding process by detaching the slave rod from the clutch lever, loosen the bleed valve and try to force the slave rod back into the cylinder. You'll probably get a mix of air and fluid escaping so have rags handy. Once you pushed the piston as far in as it will go revert to the normal bleeding process .... Use gentle the fluid(Ezibleed) or pedal pressure to push the slave piston back out to its operating position - DON'T pull on the end. Then reconnect the slave rod/clutch lever.. This may be why the previous poster found that the bleeding process improved with the spring in place.....
2. Make sure the slave piston is not running out of travel. Pull the boot off the end of the slave, push the pedal to the floor and look to be sure that there's still space between the piston and the C-clip at the outer end of the cylinder... If there isn't - then this is where you need to extend the slave rod or bend the clutch arm (or weld up the ball)...
helpmymini is right that the arm and plunger only move a few mm ..but the top of the lever/slave piston (which is the bit you can see) move almost 25mm (an inch).
Cheers, Ian
Total posts: 3862
Last post: Dec 2, 2019 Member since:Apr 26, 2005
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
I recalled way back when I had replaced the parts and had the same issue. The ball at the end of the arm had worn down causing a lack of movement. I had a friend weld material on the end, reshaped it to a ball again and VOILA I had a beautifully functioning clutch again.
Be sure the plunger is also not buggered up. Both the arm and the plunger only actually move about 1/16th of an inch. Any slack in those parts cuts into precious movement. As does a worn clevis pin. Be sure to thoroughly clean and grease any moving parts.
Good luck.
Total posts: 84
Last post: Mar 23, 2021 Member since:Feb 12, 2013
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Total posts: 6469
Last post: Sep 29, 2022 Member since:Nov 2, 2006
|
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 1354 WorkBench Posts: 2 |
|
It got me all around Australia including Tasmania but the old Brake Master failed on the way to the All British in Vancouver May 2014...fluid was getting by the seals in the master.
Put a new Brake Master in...also looked more appropriate! 2 wins!!
Total posts: 13978
Last post: Jan 15, 2024 Member since:Jan 22, 2003
|
Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 381 WorkBench Posts: 1 |
|
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
Total posts: 6909
Last post: Apr 13, 2024 Member since:Feb 26, 1999
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
https://www.minimania.com/Clutch_Checking__Pre_Verto__1086
BTW, if the slave is not moving when pumping the pedal, it's likely you've got fluid passing the seals. At the master cylinder or at the slave. Pull the rubber cap off the slave and see if it's pissing brake fluid from the cylinder. It should not be. Renew the slave with new or rebuild kit. If the slave is not leaking, I'd look to the clutch master. Have a helper pump the pedal and watch the slave. Make sure you've got the reservoir topped up with fluid.
Total posts: 84
Last post: Mar 23, 2021 Member since:Feb 12, 2013
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Total posts: 84
Last post: Mar 23, 2021 Member since:Feb 12, 2013
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |