Torrington Bearings
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The new straight cut drop gears are GREAT! The bearing in the idler is the size of a trans bearing. The sound is quite cool if you ask me. Only problem is if any other bearings go bad I won't be able to detect it over the whine!
Cool pic Hunter. Looks like a blast (when it works)
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My power unit a pre A+, 4 synchro, Puddin Stirrer transmission under a +100 thou 1098 build after Graham Russell.
So much care & attention to specs, clearances etc....and all new bearings throughout the build.
I don't know the source of the bearings in question but was warned last night by a Mini mechanic to look to see if KR appears anywhere on the races. Many bearings from South Korea are suspect. I will be looking. I will report.
I can say the Maniflow Cooper Freeflow exhaust was super easy to install & sounded great!
PHOTO: ROO on 11% TSD west of Quesnel, B.C. with fabbed bumper, LED light bar, screened lights/grill/vallance, aux. rad., oil cooler, sump guard, road/rally cones, HD adj. suspension, GAZ adj. dampers, Yokie 539s on 5"x12" wheels, 8.4 disc brakes
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Thank you to all that helped me come to this silver bullet solution.
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I was given a box or two of random transmission bits... (mostly 4 Synchro Remote)parts of all sorts.
Within those parts - was a Shaft + bearings = all tightly packaged.. I had no clue.
1000% Certain it is the Shaft + alignment pieces for the Roller bearing idler linked above. ( Circled in Red to the Pic)
I KNOW i wont be using this = and DO NOT have the actual Idler gear with Bearing.. But only have the 'Shaft assembly"
If Anyone wants this part= let me know = Available for 'cost of shipping" 6-10$
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meanwhile, words of wisdom here...https://www.calverst.com/technical-info/idler-gear-setting-end-float/
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If you changed the transfer housing, did you also change the nose bearing on the first motion shaft and the match ground outer ring in the new transfer cover ?
If not, that could well be breaking up.
What symptoms are there that lead you to think it's all going Pete Tong again anyway ?
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Sounds like you did it all right. Is there a chance there is a mismatch between the first motion shaft bearing and race so the input gear is not fully supported?
And Alex is right-- the drop gears do make more noise than just a straight cut box. And it is indeed a lot of money to use timken style drop gears-- you should ride in someone's car who has SC drop gears before shelling out the $.
I would also advise you AGAINST trying the torrington style bearings-- there must be something else at play and there were thousands and thousands of minis built without using those torrington style bearings on the idler thrusts.
Post a link to your old thread or just wait until you've got your box out and you can have a look see at what the latest problem is-- might not be what you think it is.
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I had replaced the idler gear, the idler gear bearings, the thrust washers and the clutch cover. I also replaced the primary gear. All of which appeared to be in great if not perfect condition. The only part that was in question was the transmission case. I assembled the parts without the block in place and torqued the cover. I did a reading with two sets of feeler gauges and got tolerances that were both equal and within spec. I then disassembled the parts and reassembled them with the engine in place.
Because I didn't post more information (after being put in my place by mostly you) doesn't mean I am not doing the best I can with what I have infront of me. Though I agree the setup should be holding up longer than it has, I am perplexed. It's still not removed from the car so I can't make an assessment to what happened. Aside from this post I have contacted two very skilled and experienced mini builders/mechanics for 'not public' conversation.
You come highly recommended by both of these people, but I don't appreciate your public smearing of me or my ability.
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An SC box is one thing, and I run one on the road, but the drops are far worse as they are not submerged in oil and don't quieten down in fourth. It's obviously personal choice, but it's a LOT of money to then decide you can't stick it...
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I drove a complete SC gearbox w/ SC drop gears and with that timken bearing idler drop gear for years and the noise was a non-issue. People would ask if I had a bad transmission once in a while, but that's the only time I ever really was compelled to acknowledge it.
I'm surprised to learn that you've had repeated problems with the thrust washers on your idler, though. If the case is not matched/machined to the flywheel housing and if your idler thrusts are not shimmed properly, those issues can certainly magnify wear. But I would think whoever addressed the issue after it happened the first time fixed whatever caused the original problem.
There's an engine builder here in SoCal who showed me the great lengths he goes through to realign and re-dowel every transmission and flywheel housing he touches and his attention to the detail is astounding. He made some custom tools to facilitate the realignment. I guess I've just been really fortunate to either always have matched housings and boxes that I've put together, or just dumb luck.
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I found the swiftune drop gear set. I have an email into them with a barrage of questions. It sure seems like a silver bullet to the achilles heal of the mini. Curious just how loud they are?
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More info than you want in the link below...
https://www.snoy.fi/images/esitteet/Koyo_tuotekuvasto.pdf
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Swiftune & MED amongst others make that kind of idler gear.
If you're having another failure, and this is at least the second that I can remember, you really must start to ask WHY it is happening.
You're either doing something wrong, there is a mismatch of components, or there is something damaged and overlooked.
After the last one, am I right in thinking you didn't replace the gearbox casing or the cover ?
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Unfortunately they went out of production about 20+ years ago. If anyone knows whether there are alternatives I'd also like to hear about them.
Although, if set up properly, the standard setup will last a long time in a road car. If your idler bearing rattles at idle with the clutch out then its not set up properly.
Cheers, Ian
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URL: [img]http://bradanderson.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/60MM-CAM-THRUST-BEARING-SHIMS-FULL.jpg[/img]