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 Posted: Mar 17, 2019 01:08PM
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My rotisserie is up for grabs if someone needs it. You can buy it if you wish.....Or borrow it. 

 Jason

 Posted: Jan 16, 2019 05:17PM
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Ill be done with mine in like 30 days....I'm 1.5 hrs south of you....

 Jason

 Posted: Jan 11, 2019 08:07AM
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Not sure what schedule 40 is.

Here's what I used....obviously not aluminium, not sure if schedule 40 or what....tough shyte though

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Jan 10, 2019 12:31PM
 Edited:  Jan 12, 2019 09:20AM
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.

 Posted: Jun 19, 2018 08:20AM
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Thanks for all of the information!

I found a fencing supply store about 40 minutes away that sells 2.5 inch HF20 fence posts in 21 ft lengths . I believe that might do the trick.

I figure the shell probably weighs less then 500lbs stripped down.

If the HF20 post looks to thin I will consider some of these other options you guys offered up.


Thanks again.

 Posted: Jun 18, 2018 08:37PM
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I have the front and rear mounting brackets that I bought when lining up materials to build a rotisserie. 
Then I picked up a complete rotisserie while at MMEAST. 
Let me know if there's any interest. Sell for what I bought them for.

 Posted: Jun 18, 2018 03:38PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mp850


I also used some Harbor Freight engine stands for the two ends.  They needed a little modification but the car rotated very well.

Michael 

That's exactly what I did, as well. 

Couple of medium-sized Harbor Freight engine stands off craigslist at $30 each. Put taller 5" casters on it, and welded a nut on top to act as a "stop" and hold the shell at whatever rotation point needed. 

It worked very well and was on wheels. I think, including material for the fabricated supports, I was only into it for $100 or so. Super easy to make a rotisserie for a mini (with it's center cutouts), compared to most vehicles. 

 Posted: Jun 18, 2018 08:51AM
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My local scrap dealer had plenty of salvaged natural gas pipe.  All the pipe and square tubing I needed for less than $50.

1976 1000 (Current Project)

1975 1000 Donor

1969 Cooper (Future Project)

1971 Opel GT

1972 Corvette Stingray

 Posted: Jun 18, 2018 06:54AM
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You can buy Sched 40 pipe at any steel co. Much better wall thickness than any fence tube or scaffolding. We use 6" sched 40 for the columns for the lift assist machinery we make. Plenty stiff enough to reach out 10' with a 450 lb load. Stiffness really doesn't come into play much because the load is close to the ends not in the middle.

 Posted: Jun 18, 2018 06:25AM
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Check out local steel fabrication or welding shops. They usually have an inventory of a variety of pipes, rods, plates, flats, HSS (hollow structural section) as well as structural beams etc. They will cut the length you need and have a scrap bin where you could pick the odd small pieces you may need, probably sold by the pound. Probably a lower mark-up than a plumbing supply too.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jun 18, 2018 05:58AM
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I would look for a large scale plumbing supplier.. Ferguson Etc.

 Posted: Jun 18, 2018 05:41AM
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Jsilva, I have a rotisserie that came with a Mini attached. Mini sold, rotisserie still here.

I'm 12hrs away from you in Petoskey Michigan. Nice season for a road trip..

fdbrown67@chartermi.net

 Posted: Jun 16, 2018 05:49PM
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You can purchase schedule 80 black and galvanized pipe, has a thicker wall, look on McMaster-Carr to read about it, but there may be cheaper places to buy it.

 Posted: Jun 16, 2018 04:26PM
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Hi-

I used 2 1/2 inch square metal tubing for the main support and 3 inch for ends and attaching the body to the main frame and supports.  The 3 inch tubing allows you to mover things on the main frame.

I also used some Harbor Freight engine stands for the two ends.  They needed a little modification but the car rotated very well.

Michael 

 Posted: Jun 15, 2018 03:08PM
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thanks folks . 

much appreciated.

I have 2 minis to restore. I'm to the point where I need to weld on my back and as most of you know that it's not ideal. !

I will start collecting metal to build the rotisserie

 Posted: Jun 15, 2018 02:47PM
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Shouldn't have any issues with schedule 40 iron pipe. 

I'm surprised you are having trouble finding galvanized fence post. It's what practically all park and school fences are made of, from coast-to-coast. 

For what it's worth, I didn't have great experiences with galvanized fence post. It's too thin, and while it supported my shell, I could see a slight dip from the weight of the shell. Plus it was easily distorted by the bolts in my homemade rotisserie that locked the pole in place. I'd use thicker material next time around.. 

 Posted: Jun 15, 2018 12:44PM
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I built a very heavy duty rotisserie back in the early nineties for the resto of my 1964 1/2 rusttang convertible. I built up heavy duty brackets for attaching to the front and rear of the car. I've done 5 full restos on 4 Minis, including my 2 woody wagons. I just made up brackets for bolting up to the front and rear of the cars. On the front, they are attached to the area where the front upper subframe is bolted to the body on each side, spanned using an inch and a half piece of angle iron, with a bolt screwed into the middle of the front panel for extra support. So, a 2" square piece of tubing around 2' is used. On the rear, another shorter section of square tubing goes forward and is welded to an inch and a half piece of angle iron that goes from each shock mounting hole where it is bolted to the car. The pieces of square tubing are welded to the rotating inner tubing. Randy

 Posted: Jun 15, 2018 12:16PM
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has anyone tried to use schedule 40 black iron pipe for the tube that goes through the mini (roughly 10-13ft) . I'm having trouble finding either scaffolding tube or long enough galvanized fence posts. 


any help would be appreciated.