That's how I usually fix things. Well done.

1. Well just as I started this thread I didn't do anything. The gauge got back to working correctly and the needle is not flickering. And I hadn't yet gotten a chance to clean off the gauges contacts. As I said I didn't do anything.

1964/65 was a transition period for the gauge system.  If your car is using a bolt-on sending unit (as is TTF's case) you use it with the fuel gauge that has the "skinny, bouncy" needle and you do not use the voltage stabilizer.

Could be the voltage regulator as well - check the output of it.

Also it may be the sender going bad. One of their faults i have seen on the newer style ones is that when they start to go bad the windings inside the unit start to break up where the arm contacts them and there is no continuity also they some times stick thus giving an false reading.
I am not sure if the older ones are built the same.

Thanks Doug. I know you said something like this before that's why I mentioned the change of speedometer. For whatever reason the more I drive my car the more the thing reads half a tank which should be correct. It's still flickers a bit but that flickering becomes less and less the more I drive. The more I drove the more the gas gauge sat at the correct level. I truly believe that this has something to do with filling the right hand tank before the left hand one. I'm going to do what you suggested just to make sure. Thanks Scott

I don't know which gauge was originally on a 130 MPH speedometer so I cannot give you a simple answer.

Look at the back of your fuel gauge.  With the bolt-on sending unit you can only use the fuel gauge that has little nuts on studs passing through slots.  The pictures  in the link below are for an MGA fuel gauge.  It doesn't matter... you can see the slots with nuts/studs that I am talking about.  That's the type of gauge you need to use with the bolt-on sending unit.

If you use the later (bimetallic) fuel gauge with the bolt-on sending unit, the gauge will read backwards and won't cover the correct range.
 
www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm

Doug I think I can follow that. But how about... I put a Cooper S 130 mile an hour gauge in the car 20 years ago. Does that change anything??

With the bolt-on senders the gauge will read FULL when the green/black wire is disconnected or broken.  The gauge will read EMPTY when the wire is earthed.  This is exactly the opposite of how the later gauges behave.

Reading 3/4 when the tank is closer to full is an annoyance but at least it's working again.  The early gauges are very sensitive to changes in resistance.  My suggestion is to clean ALL the connections at the tank AND on the back of the gauge itself.  The early fuel gauge MUST have a good earth connection.  It gets its ground connection from the little screws holding the gauge to the speedometer.  Make sure those screws are clean OR run a dedicated ground wire to the fuel gauge case (that takes a little creativity).

Mike thanks for the ideas. Doug it's the sender that screws into the tank. The last thing that happened was I put the 5 gallons in the right hand tank. I would think that the gas should find its own level. But I've got the fuel lines maybe quarter inch Intuit T pipe that goes to the fuel pump. I need to get out and drive it again today... But that will have to wait until later.

TTF, what year is your Mini?  Does it use the bayonet ring sender or the one that bolts onto the LH tank?

sender is stuck or shorted or wire fell off.

nothing's changed. All of a sudden the gas gauge is pegged on full I don't think it's related but I did put 5 gallons of gas in the right hand tank. Ideas??