After 5 years..
Created by: cohote
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Jun 3, 2018 06:17AM | cohote | |
Jun 3, 2018 04:32AM | Dan Moffet | |
Jun 2, 2018 10:36AM | cohote |
Total posts: 6
Last post: Jun 3, 2018 Member since:May 30, 2018
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Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Welp, that about sums it up, thanks!
Some of them don't apply to my Mini (SPi), and some of that was already planned/done (new tyres, flushing out gas, coolant, oil, etc)..
Some of that I hadn't considered, though, like grease points.
Glad I asked. Thanks!
-Mike
Some of them don't apply to my Mini (SPi), and some of that was already planned/done (new tyres, flushing out gas, coolant, oil, etc)..
Some of that I hadn't considered, though, like grease points.
Glad I asked. Thanks!
-Mike
Total posts: 9528
Last post: Mar 27, 2024 Member since:Aug 14, 2002
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Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
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I would check things from the ground up.
Check tire pressure and condition, including looking for sidewall bulges, cracking or damage and cracking in the tread grooves.
Check brakes - shoe/pad linings, leaks from cylinders/calipers, all brake line joints and flexible hose condition, brake adjustment including handbrake, fluid level, pedal function and firmness including release of brakes on all wheels.
Check and lube all suspension components.
Check clutch function and adjustment.
Check engine oil condition and level. If you have had carb overflow problems, raw fuel may have dribbled down into the crankcase - smell the oil on the dipstick: if it smells unusual or the level is higher than expected or the oil seems runny, do a complete oil change. You should probably do one anyway.
Check coolant condition and level - it may be low and discolored. Good idea to cage it anyway. Check rad condition for cleanliness and signs of damage or leakage.
Check hoses and clamp tightness, including heater hoses and water pump bypass hose if you have one.
Check belt condition and proper tension, moving belt to verify sections that have been wrapped around pulleys for a long time.
Check air cleaners and throttle and choke cables an mechanism.
Check dash pot damper oil level.
Check spark plug condition and gap. Check high tension cables for condition and clenliness.
Check ignition coil condition and connections.
Check distributor cap inside and out for cleanliness, wear, cracks, and spark tracking.
Check ignition point condition connections and gap.
Check battery cable connections and condition, including the engine block ground strap.
Check and charge the battery.
Don't try to adjust carbs or ignition timing until you get it running.
Oh yeah... make sure it has fuel! Fresh fuel!
Check tire pressure and condition, including looking for sidewall bulges, cracking or damage and cracking in the tread grooves.
Check brakes - shoe/pad linings, leaks from cylinders/calipers, all brake line joints and flexible hose condition, brake adjustment including handbrake, fluid level, pedal function and firmness including release of brakes on all wheels.
Check and lube all suspension components.
Check clutch function and adjustment.
Check engine oil condition and level. If you have had carb overflow problems, raw fuel may have dribbled down into the crankcase - smell the oil on the dipstick: if it smells unusual or the level is higher than expected or the oil seems runny, do a complete oil change. You should probably do one anyway.
Check coolant condition and level - it may be low and discolored. Good idea to cage it anyway. Check rad condition for cleanliness and signs of damage or leakage.
Check hoses and clamp tightness, including heater hoses and water pump bypass hose if you have one.
Check belt condition and proper tension, moving belt to verify sections that have been wrapped around pulleys for a long time.
Check air cleaners and throttle and choke cables an mechanism.
Check dash pot damper oil level.
Check spark plug condition and gap. Check high tension cables for condition and clenliness.
Check ignition coil condition and connections.
Check distributor cap inside and out for cleanliness, wear, cracks, and spark tracking.
Check ignition point condition connections and gap.
Check battery cable connections and condition, including the engine block ground strap.
Check and charge the battery.
Don't try to adjust carbs or ignition timing until you get it running.
Oh yeah... make sure it has fuel! Fresh fuel!
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
Total posts: 6
Last post: Jun 3, 2018 Member since:May 30, 2018
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Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
I started another thread about replacing the springs, and while posting in there, it occurred to me that I might as well as for thoughts on other things to have done before getting Bo (British Classic Open, '92 Rover) road-running.
He hasn't been on the road since '13, due to new house, marriage issues, and time.
He was put in storage because the rubber cones started to collapse, and water pump was dying. While IN storage, he developed an oil leak.
A year before *putting* him in storage, I had the head flattened, all valves done - and he ran like an effin' champ.
Since I'm taking him in to get these things taken care of, I thought I'd ask if there was anything anyone thought that really should be looked at..
Trumpets? Belt? Radiator flushing? Fuel line flushing, etc?
-Mike
He hasn't been on the road since '13, due to new house, marriage issues, and time.
He was put in storage because the rubber cones started to collapse, and water pump was dying. While IN storage, he developed an oil leak.
A year before *putting* him in storage, I had the head flattened, all valves done - and he ran like an effin' champ.
Since I'm taking him in to get these things taken care of, I thought I'd ask if there was anything anyone thought that really should be looked at..
Trumpets? Belt? Radiator flushing? Fuel line flushing, etc?
-Mike