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 Posted: Jun 2, 2018 11:30AM
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This here?
https://www.minimania.com/part/HILO-SET/Classic-Austin-Mini-Hi-lo-Front--Rear-Set

 Posted: Jun 2, 2018 11:11AM
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GB
Fit a set of proper Hi-Los (the black Mini Spares ones available from our host, not the shiny budget ones or the 'Sport ones which need a bum knuckle) and you may not need new cones...

 Posted: Jun 2, 2018 10:25AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluedragon
I wonder what type of rubber cones you had installed. I have the so-called uprated cones (C-STR687 from our host) and after 10 years (7 active, over 50,000 miles, and the last 3 inactive as I lag on doing various rust repairs) they are still fine - I have no intentions of replacing them anytime soon. 

Whereas the stock cones, I've heard, do wear out and flatten rather quickly. So perhaps a different choice of cone might be a viable compromise, or the best one if you carry a full load of people on a regular basis.

Interesting. I can't find my paperwork from my last purchase - so I'm not sure what I got at the time. With the 13" tyres, I can tell when the cones started to collapse, as the wheels would start rubbing in the fenders on tight turns. - So, in theory, they may not have collapsed a whole LOT - but enough need to be replaced.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex

In 1992 all Minis had 12" wheels - yours did not have 13" as standard, therefore they are a retrofit by a previous owner.  The overall diameter of a 13" wheel & tyre is the same as a 10" or 12" to within a few millimetres, so the rideheight is essentially the same.

What the 13" wheels are though is a shed-load heavier than a 10" or 12" wheel.  some years ago I weighed a Sportspack wheel & tyre off my friends Knightsbridge and it was TWICE the weight of Tubbs' 10" combo !!

All that extra unsprung weigh put extra strain on all of the suspension components - the Knighstbridge eats balljoints and bearings for a pasttime regardless of driving style, and it romps though cones too...

Interesting. When I purchased this Mini (it's  British Open Classic - has the large fabric sunroof), I was told the rims were from factory, and yeah, they have 13" on them. I never bothered to look into it before. Thanks for the info.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex

Given a choice, and pretending that I don't do my own work, I'd go for cones (and possibly 12" wheels) - they're failsafe and are much more useable than the springs.  Yes you've got to pay someone to install them, but considering the expense of them vs the cones plus the labour to have them fitted, you may end up paying twice.

Okay - the more I've read (here and on other sites), I will probably stick with cones then. Since I am having someone else take care of this, and the car hasn't been road-worthy or road-running for 5 years, I am going to post another post, asking for info on a couple other things. However, I'll ask this here, since it's related -
The last two times I had the cones done, I never had any other work done. No trumpets replaced, etc. While the mechanic is pfutzing around down there, should I have him take care of anything else?

 Posted: Jun 1, 2018 11:21PM
 Edited:  Jun 1, 2018 11:22PM
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GB

In 1992 all Minis had 12" wheels - yours did not have 13" as standard, therefore they are a retrofit by a previous owner.  The overall diameter of a 13" wheel & tyre is the same as a 10" or 12" to within a few millimetres, so the rideheight is essentially the same.

What the 13" wheels are though is a shed-load heavier than a 10" or 12" wheel.  some years ago I weighed a Sportspack wheel & tyre off my friends Knightsbridge and it was TWICE the weight of Tubbs' 10" combo !!

All that extra unsprung weigh put extra strain on all of the suspension components - the Knighstbridge eats balljoints and bearings for a pasttime regardless of driving style, and it romps though cones too...

I've broken two springs, one was my fault (hit a massive pothole with an engine in the back of Tubbs) and the other was a fatigue failure after a decade or so of use.  I've never broken a cone.

The ride quality in Tubbs is still as good as ever, Betty is settling down nicely on her new cones with nice ride, and the springs are sat in a box waiting for a spare to arrive.

Given a choice, and pretending that I don't do my own work, I'd go for cones (and possibly 12" wheels) - they're failsafe and are much more useable than the springs.  Yes you've got to pay someone to install them, but considering the expense of them vs the cones plus the labour to have them fitted, you may end up paying twice.

 Posted: Jun 1, 2018 05:54PM
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I wonder what type of rubber cones you had installed. I have the so-called uprated cones (C-STR687 from our host) and after 10 years (7 active, over 50,000 miles, and the last 3 inactive as I lag on doing various rust repairs) they are still fine - I have no intentions of replacing them anytime soon. 

Whereas the stock cones, I've heard, do wear out and flatten rather quickly. So perhaps a different choice of cone might be a viable compromise, or the best one if you carry a full load of people on a regular basis.

DLY
 Posted: Jun 1, 2018 03:54PM
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US
For a spring to be effective it must have two coils or more in the middle. The single wound spring can not compress, so it breaks. I currently have in use the Delta spring from Japan - Long Stroke and Minitastic from England - Town & Country. Both are excellent for daily drivers. They do exactly what they were made for - to give a compliant ride. The body sits about the same height as the later cars with the 12 wheels. The suspension needs to travel to give the better ride. The mini is still very tossable.

 Posted: Jun 1, 2018 12:16PM
 Edited:  Jun 1, 2018 12:21PM
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First off -
Thanks to EVERYONE for their input.

When I did my research years ago (literally..) I don't think I either did complete research, or a lot of usage info was out.

I'll add that my Mini is a '92 BRG Classic - came stock, from factory with the 13" wheels. So my Mini is already a little higher up off road-level than normal.

After reading responses, I'm now debating my choice.

One of the advantages to me with the steel springs was longevitiy - while I can (and have) done a lot of work on my little guy, I do not have the tools or lifts available to handle suspension work. This means that every time I gotta get new rubbers, I have to take it some place that can do the work for me.

My first ones (since I owned the car) lasted 6 years. Second set, 4. I don't race it - but I do sometimes drive like hell - and will occasionally get air. *ahem*. 

My thought was that springs would be firmer(*) and last a little longer. But I'm also petrified of losing a spring and tearing up my baby.
(*) - I sure as hell ain't lookin' for comfort. I want grip, and I want to feel the road.

Edit to add: As far as I know, everything else is stock, as-is form factory.. No Hi-Los, standard bumper stops.

 Posted: Jun 1, 2018 06:14AM
 Edited:  Jun 1, 2018 06:15AM
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CA
I installed a Moulton Smooth-a-Ride kit in 2005 and it still hasn't settled appreciably. The front adjustable trumpets were set as low as possible and the rears to give the correct height relative to the front. The car is used seasonally and has been used as a daily driver, though not recently. While stored for the winter, it sits on its wheels. When I drive it, I drive it like a Mini should be driven. Nothing like quality components.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jun 1, 2018 05:17AM
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US
The reason I have removed steel springs is the owners didn't get that feel they were looking for. I do a complete Hi Lo / rubber cone replacement every other month. Yes, on the ride to and from having a new exhaust system installed they settle 1/2 to 3/4 inch in ride height. Some times it requires a couple of adjustments till they settle in. Also a good set of shocks and new tires at the same time  make for a combination that's hard to beat. Every time I do it I think " Now this is what was meant to be". It has been six years since I replaced my daily driver cones and tires. It has now settled to a very cool looking stance, but time for new stuff. It won't be steel springs for me. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: May 31, 2018 11:48AM
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The springs do not seem to be progressive like the original rubber cones.
The only ones i have run across are the Delta ? ones from Japan and they seem decent but are not inexpensive.
I must say it had been a while since i drove a Mini with stock 10 inch wheels and good rubber cones and it was sheer pleasure to get back in the car and drive it the way the Mini was first engineered.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: May 31, 2018 10:25AM
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US
That is one of the complaints I get. At chosen ride height can't haul people or much else in the rear with out rubbing. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: May 31, 2018 05:38AM
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GB
I've managed to find the essay I wrote about spring some years ago now.
https://www.minimania.com/msgThread/114272/1/61/Coil_springs_or_rubber_cones

Since then, I've done the Italian Job on the red springs which required jacking the back end right up to avoid rubbing, and convered back to rubber after a front spring snapped - it'd had a hard daily life and I don't blame it for chucking in the towel.

 Posted: May 31, 2018 03:34AM
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US
Thank you for filling out your profile, puts you up close to Summit Point. I'm about to break even on steel springs. I have removed as many as I have installed. I have removed two sets and am about to install my second set. It seems there are S Racer ones and then some others we don't seem to know who made. S racer make a thicker rebound buffer which keeps the spring from dislodging at full droop (like jacking the car) and can be a tough install. 

I don't believe the steel springs are progressive like the rubber. Let us know what you think once in and adjusted. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: May 30, 2018 06:50PM
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US
I'm not a fan of springs, but if you're going that way, see upper arm rebound buffers 24A4267C. You might consider rear bump stops C-SRP015.

 Posted: May 30, 2018 05:49PM
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Okay, with my second set of rubber cones finally starting to collapse, I decided to upgrade to springs. Yay.

The last time I looked into it, I thought I remembered reading that some bumper stops were needed/recommended. (I also remember the green spring set... so.. take that as you will.) I don't see those mentioned now..

So, other than getting the spring set, is there anything else that is *required*, or at least strongly recommended?

Cheers!
-Mike