Maybe old hat to others...
Created by: Hunter2
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Apr 29, 2018 08:06PM | Hunter2 | |
Apr 29, 2018 11:29AM | Minerva | Edited: Apr 29, 2018 11:33AM |
Apr 29, 2018 04:20AM | CooperTune | |
Apr 29, 2018 01:23AM | Alex | |
Apr 28, 2018 06:16PM | Tagus | |
Apr 28, 2018 03:47PM | Hunter2 | |
Apr 28, 2018 11:47AM | Dan Moffet | |
Apr 28, 2018 04:13AM | Hunter2 |
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Alex, I started the new bearings with a 3/4" socket. Once started I switched to 1/2" plate steel (fashioned to allow mounting of hubs with plate held in vise). With plate over the bearing it was easy to drive them home.
Next up, installing one piece bearings in the first engine steady. The very robust items from SuperPro in Australia. Need to be liberally lubricated from the packets included...and may rocket back across the shop....
Perhaps I should raise the garage door so the neighbours can watch the maybe mayhem.
(the BLUE bushes are for the forward lower engine steady)
Next up, installing one piece bearings in the first engine steady. The very robust items from SuperPro in Australia. Need to be liberally lubricated from the packets included...and may rocket back across the shop....
Perhaps I should raise the garage door so the neighbours can watch the maybe mayhem.
(the BLUE bushes are for the forward lower engine steady)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tagus
Thanks for the information Rick. I had to pull a manual to figure out what you were talking about but it's all clear now. Much appreciated!
Ron
ps...I don't think D***ens is a curse word.
Ron
ps...I don't think D***ens is a curse word.
Kind of like "Carry on D***"....a real Carry On movie from the 1950s...
If it's not Scottish....it's crap! (Cry of the Mini Tartan Owners' Clan)
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When I built my personal vintage racer I wanted to move my shifter back 6 inches. This was back before I met my first rod change. With two remotes I cut them up welded the parts together cut a hole in the cross member and never looked back. The longest left over section of the shift rod was ground to produce a drift just for removing front upper and rear swing arm bushings. Has yet to fail me. Steve (CTR)
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I've never had a bearing I couldn't pull out using the Churchill tool, but will admit to using an old pin and thrust washer to drive the new bearings in rather than use the specific tool.
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Thanks for the information Rick. I had to pull a manual to figure out what you were talking about but it's all clear now. Much appreciated!
Ron
ps...I don't think D***ens is a curse word.
Ron
ps...I don't think D***ens is a curse word.
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Exactly Dan!
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So, does the conical end of the old shaft keep the collet sections of the bearing puller spread open as you hammer on the back end?
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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I was having a D***ens of a time removing the pivot shaft bearings from the Aussie Mini's upper arms. Slide hammer would not budge them...the puller's ears would come through the bearing. Nor could I drive them out with a 'suitable tapered punch'.
Went to the internet of everything and there was an experienced chap (yes he had grey hair) demonstrating how to use a bearing puller with a 'new tool'. The result driving the bearing puller out rather than pulling it out.
The new tool, a tapered end ground onto a scrap pivot pin. With the taper leaving a flat tip that would fit inside the opened ears of the puller.
Because the steel in the puller is harder than the steel in the pivot pin, the tapered end gets abused and can use a little touch up on the grinder.
Went to the internet of everything and there was an experienced chap (yes he had grey hair) demonstrating how to use a bearing puller with a 'new tool'. The result driving the bearing puller out rather than pulling it out.
The new tool, a tapered end ground onto a scrap pivot pin. With the taper leaving a flat tip that would fit inside the opened ears of the puller.
Because the steel in the puller is harder than the steel in the pivot pin, the tapered end gets abused and can use a little touch up on the grinder.