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 Posted: Apr 29, 2018 08:06PM
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CA
Alex, I started the new bearings with a 3/4" socket.  Once started I switched to 1/2" plate steel (fashioned to allow mounting of hubs with plate held in vise).  With plate over the bearing it was easy to drive them home.

Next up, installing one piece bearings in the first engine steady.  The very robust items from SuperPro in Australia.  Need to be liberally lubricated from the packets included...and may rocket back across the shop....

Perhaps I should raise the garage door so the neighbours can watch the maybe mayhem.

(the BLUE bushes are for the forward lower engine steady)

 Posted: Apr 29, 2018 11:29AM
 Edited:  Apr 29, 2018 11:33AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tagus
Thanks for the information Rick. I had to pull a manual to figure out what you were talking about but it's all clear now. Much appreciated!

Ron

ps...I don't think D***ens is a curse word.
Bloody right it is not. Maybe a re-tune of MM's "censor snowflake filters"?     Take a look at this if you are not easily offended.  whataboutD***.com


Kind of like "Carry on D***"....a real Carry On movie from the 1950s...

If it's not Scottish....it's crap! (Cry of the Mini Tartan Owners' Clan)

 Posted: Apr 29, 2018 04:20AM
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US
When I built my personal vintage racer I wanted to move my shifter back 6 inches. This was back before I met my first rod change. With two remotes I cut them up welded the parts together cut a hole in the cross member and never looked back. The longest left over section of the shift rod was ground to produce a drift just for removing front upper and rear swing arm bushings. Has yet to fail me. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Apr 29, 2018 01:23AM
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GB
I've never had a bearing I couldn't pull out using the Churchill tool, but will admit to using an old pin and thrust washer to drive the new bearings in rather than use the specific tool.

 Posted: Apr 28, 2018 06:16PM
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CA
Thanks for the information Rick. I had to pull a manual to figure out what you were talking about but it's all clear now. Much appreciated!

Ron

ps...I don't think D***ens is a curse word.

 

Cool

 Posted: Apr 28, 2018 03:47PM
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CA
Exactly Dan!

 Posted: Apr 28, 2018 11:47AM
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CA
So, does the conical end of the old shaft keep the collet sections of the bearing puller spread open as you hammer on the back end?

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Apr 28, 2018 04:13AM
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CA
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I was having a D***ens of a time removing the pivot shaft bearings from the Aussie Mini's upper arms.  Slide hammer would not budge them...the puller's ears would come through the bearing.  Nor could I drive them out with a 'suitable tapered punch'.

Went to the internet of everything and there was an experienced chap (yes he had grey hair) demonstrating how to use a bearing puller with a 'new tool'.  The result driving the bearing puller out rather than pulling it out.

The new tool, a tapered end ground onto a scrap pivot pin.  With the taper leaving a flat tip that would fit inside the opened ears of the puller.

Because the steel in the puller is harder than the steel in the pivot pin, the tapered end gets abused and can use a little touch up on the grinder.