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 Posted: Apr 2, 2018 01:39AM
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GB
Quote:
Originally Posted by CooperTune
Unless you happen to have a pair of MGB HIF38s which are left and right diagonal. Setting up a pair for a 1400 with twin HIF 38s. Steve (CTR)

They're HIF4s not 38s - I've just popped a NOS set onto a modern alloy inlet for use on Betty.  I obtained a 60s Alexander inlet at a show last summer (which leterally had my name on it...) and got caught out by the different diagonals.  With hindsight I could have used 4-bolt spacers to make up an adaptor but didn't think of it until I'd finished with the new one.

Interesting mods required to get the linkages to work as the spacing between them is wider on a B-Series MGB than an A-Series.

 Posted: Apr 1, 2018 06:48AM
 Edited:  Apr 1, 2018 03:02PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derwood
Thanks Malcolm. I really appreciate your help ( and everyone else who helps me from time to time to. What I forgot to mention, is that the only technical difference that Haynes mentions is that the larter of the two carbs calls for a AAC needle, while the earlier type calls for a AAC ( which is the high compression needle. Is it fare to assume that the wrong needle will make the Carburetter a real pain to get operating , or may not operate with the wrong needle of these two ? Do I order two ( 1 of each ) to be sure ? Thanks all, Darren
All 998 Jap spec Mini's were fitted with a HS4. The 2 needles you list are the same? Being a Jap spec car they may have used a different needle that would not be listed in Haynes, it is just a guide and does not cover all markets.
Take off the dashpot and remove the needle it will be stamped with 3 letters and you will know what to order.
Needles usually last forever why do you want to replace it?
You should be able to set up the carb with the current set up unless you have a very worn throttle shaft or jet.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Mar 31, 2018 07:17AM
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US
Unless you happen to have a pair of MGB HIF38s which are left and right diagonal. Setting up a pair for a 1400 with twin HIF 38s. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Mar 31, 2018 12:15AM
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GB
Square.  Same diagonal though, so either carb will work on any manifold.

 Posted: Mar 31, 2018 12:07AM
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Just because I’m bored.... does the HIF38 have the angled bolt pattern (a la HS4) or the square pattern of the  1 3/4 carbs???

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Mar 30, 2018 11:11PM
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CA
Darren..... it’s pretty simple
if the float bowl is beside the carb, it’s an HS
if you don’t see a float bowl.... it’s an HIF
My 89 Jap MINI had an HS4.... I’m guessing yours does also

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Mar 30, 2018 10:00PM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by Minimike1

 an internal float bowl (HIF) and the external float bowl. (HS I believe)
Derwood: Post a couple of pics of your carb and we'll be able to tell you if it's an HIF or an HS. 

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports

 Posted: Mar 30, 2018 08:57PM
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+1 Minimink1 Thank you mike. Between you and malsal you two have given me a lot of very valuable information. I tip my hat to you gentleman. I’b be thoroughly lost without me very helpfull friends here on the forum.

Best regards always, Darren.

 Posted: Mar 30, 2018 08:04PM
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US
look at the tag on the engine behind/above  the # 1 spark plug (closest to the fan).  That number decoded will tell you if you have
a high compression engine.

The two carbs I think you  might be trying to sort would be an internal float bowl (HIF) and the external float bowl. (HS I believe) The external float bowl sits to the side of the carb and the rubber fuel line will attach to it.

That should be enough to ID your carb. 

Pretty sure there's a chart here on MM in maybe the tech section to ID your engine.

 Posted: Mar 30, 2018 05:30PM
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+1 Malcolm :)

 Posted: Mar 30, 2018 05:29PM
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Thanks Malcolm. I really appreciate your help ( and everyone else who helps me from time to time too). What I forgot to mention, is that the only technical difference that Haynes mentions is that the larter of the two carbs calls for a AAC needle, while the earlier type calls for a AAC ( which is the high compression needle. Is it fare to assume that the wrong needle will make the Carburetter a real pain to get operating , or may not operate with the wrong needle of these two ? Do I order two ( 1 of each ) to be sure ?

Thanks all, Darren

 Posted: Mar 30, 2018 05:17PM
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It should be a HS4 if original. There is usually an id tag attached to one of the screws on the float chamber lid, unless of course it has been left off previously.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Mar 30, 2018 05:06PM
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Hi all. I am trying to use my Haynes manual to determine what type of carb ( single carb ) my Mini has. My car is a 1989, and unfortunately Haynes says that was a cross- over year. According to Haynes, my carb could be either , depending on wether it is a low compression engine or a high compression engine. Do I need more info ( VIN etc ) to figure this out, or will the Carburetter model be imprinted somewhen on the carb ? Thank you, DarreN PS- I checked out the ignition system and all seems fine.

Thanks for any help, Darren.