I'll go with Modest.

None of my rebuilds - including Lotus Twin cams - ever leaked, it is not all that difficult to do a rebuild and to not have leaks.

And it does run, just as expected fired first try and the timing was within two degrees and O2 was very close and responded to the adjustment on carb. It's nice to have water temp., oil pressure, fuel pressure (mechanical pump) O2, vacuum, RPM, timing light and dwell all in front of you with clear view of unit to check for leaks. The lawn mower throttle allows any rpm and hold it there till changed. All on rollers to move to door and poke pipe out side using a 24 inch glass pack with some tube on either end. Slips on header and O2 tube in the other end. I love it when they don't leak. Steve (CTR)

Harvey it looks like I have a bag of BCE s. My eyes got tired looking for one just either side rich and lean of the BCE. Had a large order coming to the shop and the house today. Have spring engines to build on the way back to shop to fire off current build. Rigged test stand to filter gas and give fuel pressure with mechanical pump. A solid 3 psi and once the dry pump seals it's self up all will be well. That's 60 psi oil and 3 psi fuel on the starter motor. Plugs in and power the coil, it should run. Steve (CTR)

wow

Plus, any old steel is better than modern Chinese cheesy steel

My vote good. combined with years of experience.

Check our host's prices on tanks.
Aftermarket 7.5 Gallon non-injected, $350
Aftermarket 7.5 Gallon injected, $370,
5.5 Gallon LH, $900
Late model SPI/MPI, $830
RH 5.5 Gallon, $675
RH Aluminum, $1295

I can think of a lot of reasons for cleaning and/or lining a tank.  

Why bother with all of that and still have metal wall thickness that is , say, 50 % gone? Why not a new tank?
What needle you gonna use in that HIF44? Harvey

After assembly I place power units on my engine test stand for break in and leak checks. Most engines got electronic dizzy or conversion. This one for now will have points and condenser. We always get a big kick out of them starting first try. I rolled the crank around to 10 degrees before TDC and put my meter across the points connecting to the male spade on the end of the lead. Figured I'd rotate the dizzy till till the points opened and lock it there for now. Turn as I might the points never closed according to the meter. Additional checking proved the lead was open ( a break some where along it's length ) had I not checked it would not have started first or any time till I corrected the issue. Once everything was connected and oil pressure ( 60 psi on starter ) without plugs I realized there was no gas at the shop to run it in on. Between settings, cam and lifter break in and O2 adjustment I will run two gallons of hi test though it before installing in the car. 

Another thing I have been finding is very bad gas tanks in the cars. The tank in this car a late Jap spec was the worst I have seen other than those rusted though. It took two weeks to treat and clean the tank. It spent a week full of molasses followed by a week full of rock polishing material and a gallon of rust-solvo rotating several different directions. Steve (CTR)