Primary gear - extremely scored edition?
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Mar 8, 2018 09:46AM | Cranium | Edited: Mar 8, 2018 09:47AM |
Mar 5, 2018 07:18PM | metalwright | |
Mar 5, 2018 05:48PM | iain1967s | Edited: Mar 5, 2018 05:53PM |
Mar 5, 2018 02:28PM | metalwright | |
Feb 13, 2018 01:09PM | metalwright | |
Feb 8, 2018 07:10AM | metalwright | |
Feb 7, 2018 08:43AM | Dan Moffet | |
Feb 7, 2018 05:28AM | oldminimover49 | |
Feb 6, 2018 09:58AM | mur | |
Feb 6, 2018 06:38AM | CooperTune | |
Feb 6, 2018 05:48AM | mowog | |
Feb 6, 2018 04:57AM | CooperTune | Edited: Feb 6, 2018 05:05AM |
Feb 5, 2018 08:45PM | Alex | |
Feb 5, 2018 06:52PM | Spank | |
Feb 5, 2018 05:59PM | metalwright | |
Feb 5, 2018 05:54PM | mur | |
Feb 5, 2018 05:37PM | metalwright | |
Feb 5, 2018 04:02PM | mur | |
Feb 5, 2018 08:48AM | Spank | Edited: Feb 5, 2018 08:49AM |
Feb 4, 2018 07:55PM | mur |
Found 26 Messages
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https://www.minimania.com/msgThread/122601/1/1/Books_and_magazines_for_sale
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Do not see article on gearbox teardown...
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Do not see article on gearbox teardown...
No, makes no sense to me either but all the magazines do it - a hangover from the days of physical printed distribution I guess. I subscribe to the online edition.
Regarding primary gear wear - end float is what's important. Remember that the bearing is only being used when the clutch pedal is pressed down, so very little of the engine running time in total. But when it is being used, it's effectively pushing the crankshaft in the opposite direction to the clutch plate. So you want correct tolerance on the end float so it doesn't judder.
Back in the 80s my daily driver was a mini 998 with a 1275 metro engine on top. I didn't have the correct wider A-series primary gear for the 1275 A+ crank, so I just reamed the phosphor bronze bearing completely out of of the 998 gear and used that. Steel on steel and never any problems with binding, just use neutral when sitting at the lights...
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Do not see article on gearbox teardown.. Do see an article on selecting the correct final drive, however.
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I did a video of my misadventures:
https://youtu.be/MIjQqr_MPaM
I hope you find it entertaining...
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"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
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Sorry to hear of your troubles
Checking my records, it appears l sold you that OZ moke with the 1098cc engine 9 years ago
And sadly the warranty ran out this past Dec 31st
But in any event good luck with the rebuild
Big AL
Niagara Ontario Canada
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I’d say I had a lot of good practice! Spank gets even more practice in.
The modern grownup days of doing everything perfectly right are a bit dull. I haven’t even started a mini in -35°C in three years, let alone left in bad conditions to go 500+ miles. I even bought a nice mini to drive all the time and it sits in the garage with a toboggan on the roof. What have I become?
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Thanks for posting.
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Edit: As for the Haynes ( book of lies as Zip liked to call it ) they are not all the same. They come in different cover colors and some are chocked full of info and others offer little or nothing about trannys.
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There's a very comprehensive guide to dismantling a gearbox in the January edition of Mini Mag.
Remember that that bearing is matched to the outer ring in the transfer housing - they should not be swapped about willy nilly, though Spank will inevitably tell you that you can do it with no problems at all (which is mostly true, it's just very bad practice).
Carefully remove the rollers from the cage, slip the plastic cage off, knock back the lock tabs on the input gear nut, undo the nut with an 1-1/8" AF deep socket. You'll run out of thread before the inner race is fully off the end of the 1st motion shaft, but screwing the nut back on will give you enough purchase with a puller.
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If you are just trying to get to the baulk rings, that bearing can stay on.
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My Haynes manual says to take the gearbox to a specialist! Maybe I'm in the wrong section..
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While it is nice to do this alongside someone who has done it before, the Haynes manual does a good job of describing the tasks in order.
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I've also installed a NOS front bushing: After installing it, no machine shop local to me would touch it. Well, one specialist shop within driving distance would, but at the cost greater than purchasing a new complete primary gear.
If his crank cracks because he took my advice and reuses the primary gear with the scored bushing, I'll replace it FOC, shipping included.
I'm simply offering Use It as another viable option.
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Some do make a great fuss over these. I really only have issues when the crank cracks.
Found 26 Messages