× 1-800-946-2642 Home My Account Social / Forum Articles Contact My Cart
Shop Now
Select Your Car Type Sale Items Clearance Items New Items
   Forum Width:     Forum Type: 

 Posted: Feb 8, 2018 05:59PM
Total posts: 10
Last post: Feb 8, 2018
Member since:Jan 29, 2018
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Rough one Dan.

I'm not so used to having to do this in the cold.  Been fairly lucky and most haven't been a dead car fix, but maintenance stuff mostly.  Before this one and my '09 Malibu , I ALWAYS had a new car. " Here, take this it doesnt work and fix it because its under warranty"  But that was when I was young and dumb and could lease.  Last fuel pump and filter I changed took literally 15 min.  3 bolts a gasket and 2 clamps in a wide open engine bay.

Tell you what though , this has been coming for a while now that I look back, battery too.  Sometimes rough start, had to let it warm up a bit or it would bog or stall if you went from R to D quickly and it would chug along at idle, (i just thought thats how a CVT behaved) especially in the cold, but I chalked it up to that's just what old cars do and it'll probably need a tune up.  Runs like a champ now!  Feels good to fix S***! 

Remember when there were no forums and no you tube video and all you had was that chilton's manual?

 Posted: Feb 8, 2018 03:01PM
Total posts: 9528
Last post: Mar 27, 2024
Member since:Aug 14, 2002
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
CA
Glad to read you have it sorted.
Most of us have had similar trials in patience and endurance (and the occasional "D'oh" minute.)
One of my trials of endurance involved lying under a FIAT X/1-9, removing and reinstalling the alternator, outdoors, at night, in winter, in 6" of slushy snow with a small rivulet of ice-water helping me "keep my cool".

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Feb 7, 2018 04:23PM
Total posts: 10
Last post: Feb 8, 2018
Member since:Jan 29, 2018
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
the second that key hit the Acc position, I knew it was MF MONEY!

Guess you never notice the sound of your.fuel pump priming until you hear the silence of no fuel pump priming.  Not having to drop the tank is nice, but being mid fore arm deep in a 20 degree tank of gas in a wide open garage getting a clip that slid down a hose is not fun.  Fumbled for a looooong time hooking those connections up through that tiny hole.

Took it for a test drive to see how the coolant system did (and for a celebratory bottle of whiskey) and came out and all of the lights were on, with the keys in my pocket.  And I'm thinking SERIOUSLY??!!  An electrical problem?  WTF? Gotta go home and disconnect the battery overnight .


LOL headlight switch.  Bahahahahaha haven't had to remember about that in like 8 years.

Thx for all the support.

 Posted: Feb 5, 2018 01:09PM
Total posts: 2271
Last post: May 23, 2023
Member since:Dec 29, 2004
Cars in Garage: 1
Photos: 9
WorkBench Posts: 0
Since the initial error codes are transmission related, I can't help but wonder if there is an errant signal or a missing signal from the transmission causing all this...

Ken

 Posted: Feb 5, 2018 08:04AM
Total posts: 10
Last post: Feb 8, 2018
Member since:Jan 29, 2018
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Yep, just saw that when I googled the part number when on the phone with the dealer that the switch got integrated into the airbag module.  There's only 1 in inventory in mini dealerships in the USA.


Thanks for the follow up ken.

 Posted: Feb 5, 2018 07:53AM
 Edited:  Feb 5, 2018 08:02AM
Total posts: 2271
Last post: May 23, 2023
Member since:Dec 29, 2004
Cars in Garage: 1
Photos: 9
WorkBench Posts: 0
The fuel pump with level sensor is in the left (drivers) side fuel tank.  The fuel filter with level sensor is in the right (passenger) side.

"On early models an inertia switch is installed in the B+ line to the relay between the fuse and the fuel pump relay. In the event of an impact greater than 14G the switch will open interrupting power to the relay. The inertia switch has to be reset manually once it has
been triggered. As of 9/2002 production, vehicles utilize a crash signal from the MRS control unit to the EMS2000 control unit to control fuel pump shut off as oppose to the inertia switch."  - in other words, the airbag systems sends a signal to the main ecu to shut off the fuel in case of a crash...

FYI,

Ken

 Posted: Feb 4, 2018 09:32AM
 Edited:  Feb 4, 2018 02:47PM
Total posts: 10
Last post: Feb 8, 2018
Member since:Jan 29, 2018
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Last thing that happened before the radiator fiasco was it cranked but didn't stay running.  Now after that absolute nightmare(couldn't get to clamps, new hoses didn't fit right,  news hoses too long, radiator didn't fit right)  I go to crank it and clank, clank clank of a dead battery. mother F'er.  Any chance the battery could have been strong enough to turn the starter and fire the coils, but not the injectors? 

Also I checked the manual and there's no mention of inertial fuel cutoff wait h, fuel cutoff switch, emergency fuel cutoff, crash fuel cutoff and I don't see it on the firewall anywhere.  So, on the charger it goes.  Should have just taken the dam thing to the shop.

Edit: battery was dead @ 8yrs old, so not unexpected.  Fuse is intact, I can feel the relay click, starts with starter fluid, won't stay running. Depressing Schrader valve does nothing after after cranking. Every pic I see of the fuel cutoff is driver's side in that small well by the booster.   All I have is a grommet where that looks like it should  have gone.  Tried multiple keys.  Gas gauge reads 3/4 full.  All signs point to fuel pump I guess. 
Edit 2: or maybe the filter could have sworn the parts guy said the filter sat in the pump housing but it looks lile theyre on opposite sides of the vehicle.  Gonna go prep the car and tape everything off.

 Posted: Feb 2, 2018 06:49AM
Total posts: 2271
Last post: May 23, 2023
Member since:Dec 29, 2004
Cars in Garage: 1
Photos: 9
WorkBench Posts: 0
Just thought of something else - have you tried a different key?  perhaps the battery in the key has died and the security feature is preventing the car from starting?

Another long shot...

Ken

 Posted: Feb 2, 2018 05:43AM
Total posts: 1007
Last post: Jul 19, 2022
Member since:Jul 24, 2014
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
The inertia switch has been required by gov reg on all cars for quite for few years. A good read of your owners manual will show where and how to reset the switch. should also cover fuse and relay locations. Hard cold with wind is no fun for working on cars.

 Posted: Feb 1, 2018 04:52PM
Total posts: 2271
Last post: May 23, 2023
Member since:Dec 29, 2004
Cars in Garage: 1
Photos: 9
WorkBench Posts: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWifesMini
Been through the codes and model and found nothing, that's how I got here .  Need to take care of my radiator stupidity before resuming the start problem.

Some points:  
Where is the fuse? 
Where is the relay? I see some info about it being soldered directly to the board in the passenger compartment?  Should it audibly click at acc position?  I can at least listen for this, or just check for 12v at the pump, but from the pics it looks like you need to remove the pump to get to the connection.  Is this correct?

Have I checked if there is gas in the tank....?  That is one interesting question.  I guess technically the answer is no.  I hadn't even thought of that.  Might hit the gas station and get a gallon of fuel.  The gauge says there is gas, but it may be a liar.  I'll ask my wife if she had filled up recently, but adding a gallon can't hurt.  That would be hilarious if it was a faulty gauge, but the odds of it running out the exact instant she shut it off in the driveway are slim.

Can someone post a pic of where the inertial switch is on an '05?  Does every car have one? I don't see one unless it's hidden, but all of the pics I see are that it is right out in the open; American driver's side outboard side of the vehicle.

Also, so cold.... so very very cold.  Fitting punishment for my radiator stupidly .

All the help is appreciated.
Fuse for the fuel pump is F20 (20amp) - fuse box in the kick panel / drivers side.

Relay is in the same fuse box - the relay at the bottom (lowest position) in the fuse box.

Don't beat yourself up about the radiator - we've all had similar experiences!

ken

 Posted: Feb 1, 2018 04:30PM
Total posts: 10
Last post: Feb 8, 2018
Member since:Jan 29, 2018
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Been through the codes and model and found nothing, that's how I got here .  Need to take care of my radiator stupidity before resuming the start problem.

Some points:  
Where is the fuse? 
Where is the relay? I see some info about it being soldered directly to the board in the passenger compartment?  Should it audibly click at acc position?  I can at least listen for this, or just check for 12v at the pump, but from the pics it looks like you need to remove the pump to get to the connection.  Is this correct?

Have I checked if there is gas in the tank....?  That is one interesting question.  I guess technically the answer is no.  I hadn't even thought of that.  Might hit the gas station and get a gallon of fuel.  The gauge says there is gas, but it may be a liar.  I'll ask my wife if she had filled up recently, but adding a gallon can't hurt.  That would be hilarious if it was a faulty gauge, but the odds of it running out the exact instant she shut it off in the driveway are slim.

Can someone post a pic of where the inertial switch is on an '05?  Does every car have one? I don't see one unless it's hidden, but all of the pics I see are that it is right out in the open; American driver's side outboard side of the vehicle.

Also, so cold.... so very very cold.  Fitting punishment for my radiator stupidly .

All the help is appreciated.

 Posted: Feb 1, 2018 02:42PM
 Edited:  Feb 1, 2018 02:49PM
Total posts: 1007
Last post: Jul 19, 2022
Member since:Jul 24, 2014
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Your fuel system will have a fuse and a relay as well as an inertia switch. Check these first. You may also want to random net search using your codes + car/model to see if others have had the same problem. If the wife is without a car you may need to get it in a shop  right away, along with a rental. 

 Posted: Feb 1, 2018 02:00PM
Total posts: 2271
Last post: May 23, 2023
Member since:Dec 29, 2004
Cars in Garage: 1
Photos: 9
WorkBench Posts: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWifesMini
Doesn't seem to be a switch there, not sure if it's an option or not.  Confirmed spark, plug looks ok. cleaned MAF sensor, got it to start with starter fluid, not wouldn't stay running.  Dropped one of the two MAF screws between the fan blade and shroud and in the process of being an idiot while trying to get it I poked a hole in the radiator.FML.  Now I get to spend Thurs nigjt, Fri night and probably the weekend replacing the radiator and figuring out which fuel system component is to blame.  I can't get a line pressure tester, so I just depressed the test valve and fuel didn't spray, so may be the pump.
Since any engine requires fuel, air, and ignition to run and the car ran briefly with starter fluid - you may have eliminated the air and ignition as a potential problem.  It sure sounds like the engine is not getting fuel.

I presume you have confirmed there is gas in the tank...

It may be the fuel pump or the fuel pump is not getting power....

Keep us updated!

Ken

 Posted: Jan 31, 2018 04:11PM
Total posts: 10
Last post: Feb 8, 2018
Member since:Jan 29, 2018
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Doesn't seem to be a switch there, not sure if it's an option or not.  Confirmed spark, plug looks ok. cleaned MAF sensor, got it to start with starter fluid, not wouldn't stay running.  Dropped one of the two MAF screws between the fan blade and shroud and in the process of being an idiot while trying to get it I poked a hole in the radiator.FML.  Now I get to spend Thurs nigjt, Fri night and probably the weekend replacing the radiator and figuring out which fuel system component is to blame.  I can't get a line pressure tester, so I just depressed the test valve and fuel didn't spray, so may be the pump.

 Posted: Jan 30, 2018 05:50PM
Total posts: 10
Last post: Feb 8, 2018
Member since:Jan 29, 2018
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Thanks, I'll give that a shot in the AM.  Got a suggestion from someone at the parts store about some transmission module(not the tcm)  than can cause this and that it may not start in park, but might in neutral.  Sounds fishy to me, but gave it a shot.  Still nothing.  Said he'd come code it for free, but the guy at the parts store knew him and his shop, so may give that a shot.  Can't let him not get paid,; not in my nature, but alert radar is on for someone that would do that for a random auto parts store guy.  I've got a Sig Sauer that says any shady play is a bad idea, but he does own a local shop and may just be looming for business.  The trans codes and no start still has me stumped

 Posted: Jan 30, 2018 08:29AM
Total posts: 2271
Last post: May 23, 2023
Member since:Dec 29, 2004
Cars in Garage: 1
Photos: 9
WorkBench Posts: 0
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWifesMini
Good greief....
Sorry was too focused on the codes and irritation at having no equipment rentable to start diagnosing. 2005 mini cooper R50, CVT mfg in May.  I didn't have any help available, so I'll probably take tomorrow off and get an spark tester, and try starter fluid too when I'll have a helper.

Just lost my edit, sorry if this double posts.
Other notes:  it liked a few seconds to warm up before going into reverse and also the same pause between R and D, or it might stall.  At slow speeds and slowing down or light throttle it would "chug along" kind of like a manual in 1st gear that was about to stall, but it's done that for the 5 or 6 years we've had it and it's been driven by a mechanic, so inassumed it was a CVT or mini CVT thing.
This may be a long shot, but take a look to see if your MINI has this inertial fuel cut-off switch which is located on the drivers side firewall in the engine compartment - if it is so equipped....  push down on the rubber cap to reset it.

Ken

 Posted: Jan 30, 2018 04:43AM
 Edited:  Jan 30, 2018 06:18AM
Total posts: 10
Last post: Feb 8, 2018
Member since:Jan 29, 2018
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Good greief....
Sorry was too focused on the codes and irritation at having no equipment rentable to start diagnosing. 2005 mini cooper R50, CVT mfg in May.  I didn't have any help available, so I'll probably take tomorrow off and get an spark tester, and try starter fluid too when I'll have a helper.

Just lost my edit, sorry if this double posts.
Other notes:  it liked a few seconds to warm up before going into reverse and also the same pause between R and D, or it might stall.  At slow speeds and slowing down or light throttle it would "chug along" kind of like a manual in 1st gear that was about to stall, but it's done that for the 5 or 6 years we've had it and it's been driven by a mechanic, so inassumed it was a CVT or mini CVT thing.

 Posted: Jan 29, 2018 07:35PM
Total posts: 1188
Last post: Aug 13, 2020
Member since:Aug 9, 2016
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
what car do you have? year make and model?

 Posted: Jan 29, 2018 06:59PM
Total posts: 10
Last post: Feb 8, 2018
Member since:Jan 29, 2018
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0
WorkBench Posts: 0
Hello forum,
Long time lurker and usually I can find an answer, but this time I'm stumped for now.  Wife pulled into the driveway Friday and the car was fine.  Only trouble code was P0456 which seems to be no big deal.  Then Monday she calls and says the car won't start.   Sounds like just the starter turning the motor, no desire to catch.  Not like it's almost firing.  Got P0456, P1787, and P1698, which the last 2 sound like a death sentence.  It seems odd that the two happened at the same time, but I can't seem to find any correlation between the two trans codes and not starting.  Neutral position switch should not even allow the starter to crank .  Wanted to test fuel line pressure, but the rental kit doesn't fit the mini fitting.  Anyone have the combo of no start and the two trans codes at the same time? Tried disconnecting battery , no help.  I can hear the fuel pump prime(I think) comes from under the dash, but I think pump is under back seat.  Gonna try to spend Wednesday trying a few more things, but if not, off to the shop it goes.  Any help would be appreciatrd.