eliko, there are some of us here in NC, sort of close to you that might be of help. I am in Carrboro, Bill Cox (Werewolf) is in Earl, and Doug DK Lawson) in Durham. Although I am not an expert, feel free to contact me if you need help,
regards,
Abel

Thanks Doug.. I think I might get too confused if it was no longer orange (sorry ..pale pink 

Maybe when I get around to the 1071 restoration... one day.

Cheers, Ian

Behind your carb in the picture there are a few fuse glass holders check them and if any are bad just replace them with a blade fuse block as the heat under the bonnet makes those fuse holders crumble over time.
The dash light fuse on earlier Mini's controls the interior light and the rear running lights also, those plastic fuse holders control separate individual light circuits on 90's Mini's.

When you turned on the hazard switch, it sounded like static or arcing in the switch. If that is true, you need to replace the hazard switch. The single flasher unit is connected through the hazard switch and to the turn signal switch. (When the hazard switch is activated, it cuts power to the turn signal switch and powers the lights directly).

The radio illumination (dash light equivalent) should be connected to the instrument illumination lights - it may not be done correctly. Behind the radio, there is an in-line fuse which is probably the power feed for the radio (tuner, amp etc.) - it should be connected to the switched accessory circuit, so that when you turn off the ignition, the radio goes off. A third 'power' wire for the station preset memory should come from an "always on" power source. All the other wires should be for antenna (coax), speakers (probably 4 wires) and maybe an auxiliary or line-out wire or two. There should also be a ground wire to the body somewhere. Start by making sure it is grounded properly and checking the in-line fuse.

Ok guys i did a video of me testing the battery. Im going to buy a new 4 fuse box

https://youtu.be/ewonBozKYB0

Ignore "Specialist" -he isn't one. He is our resident troll. You may notice that he didn't bother to read your posts where you said you'd already gone for a drive in it. To show how wrong he can be, he advises not taking it to any mechanic and not touching any of the electricals... while you are convinced you have electrical issues. He likes to jump in and provide 'advice' to those new posters he thinks have less knowledge or experience than he does. He also missed the fact you have been a member here since 2015.

With the photo of your engine bay, you have indicated that your car is not fuel injected and does have the 4-fuse fusebox that is notorious for causing the problem you describe.

Apologies to the OP.  The following is a bit off your topic.

The faded jewels are a pain to deal with on center binnacle Minis because you have to un-crimp the speedometer bezel to access them.  If in the future you plan to work on your speedometer for any reason, visit a craft store like Moore's, Marshals, or maybe Hobby Lobby.  Look for the acrylic paints sold for application to glass.  Find a translucent red one and paint the speedometer jewel.  A couple of layers of fresh red acrylic will restore the lamp to almost new. 

ignore dan

MY mini runs and drives right now...... 3 years ago i daily drove it for 4 months no problem, parked it in the garage and drove it every once in a while. Battery died, replaced the battery. Even when i daily drove it the dash lights had a problem (Turn signals worked, but if i drove at night i would have to use my cell phone to see my speedometer..... Also the radio was working when i daily drove it, but now it does not. I have had the lights on it work for a split second a while ago.. I am leaning towards electrical problems, im going to test the alternator tomorrow, clean off the terminals, make sure they are tight, and give that a go...

i will help you fix your mini but first promise me that you'll follow my advice.,

First i want to ask you, was your mini running before it was kept in the garage? i didn't mean it was literally running what i meant is, was it working before you parked it for a very long time? if you say YES, then all you have to do is to replace the battery, clean the negative wire that is connected to the subframe, remove the valve cover and pour generous amount of 20/50w oil over the rockers, if i say generous amount, i mean about 1/4 of a cup.(i guess im not too generous)  aaaanywayy!  THEN, remove all 4 spark plugs and squirt a little amount of thin oil inside it, and crank the engine(without the plugs) for about 10 secs just so the oil will get distributed in between the piston rings and engine block. Put the spark plugs and the rocker cover back.  SQUIRT some amount of gasoline(or petrol,if you live in London,like some guy i know,aaanyway!)...put some fresh gas ,start the car and enjoy the ride!!!

DO NOT mess with the wires, or anything else, remember the car was running when parked few years ago, you dont have to worry about bad wirings etc, it's not that a person snuck inside the engine bay and cut all the wires while you were sleeping during that 2 year period that it was parked.,.

DO NOT bring your mini to ANY mechanic, especially a mechanic that works with modern cars, they don't know any sheyt about our minis, trust me on this one.   Bring your mini to a mechanic that works with British cars only., if they see oil leaks on the floor, they won't panic because they knew that british cars are notorious for oil leaks.

Guys this is my engine bay.

You’re right Doug.  In 30 years of staring at the light I’ve never realised that its pale pink not orange  (no oil light to compare it with).  In daylight, close inspection does show some remnants of red colouring....

My 63 Cooper Drivers Handbook identifies it as the “Ignition warning light”..

Cheers, Ian

elidko12. if  this is carb model.. only  has one fuse box.. like dan said. best to just spring for new fuse box.. the host sells them.. BUT if it is SPI it has another fuse box on right side.. and then the MPI also had third fuse box in front. near the vin plate on upper left..  later bc

Assuming you have the usual 4-fuse fusebox, it can fool you (it did me). It may look fine - like new from the front but if you remove its two mounting screws and turn it over, you may find all the brass strips and rivets are a beautiful green colour. The oxide insulates the rivets making things work intermittently, or not at all. A new one solved my problems.

Hey guys great information thank you

I live in fort bragg north carolina so if anyone is around there i would love to meet up.

Ive been looking at all of the fuses and relays they dont look corroded but some of the connectors look OLD..

Im going to test the alternator today or tomorrow. Clean the grounding wire in the boot and clean the connections a little better.

Also i just put 93 octane in it when i drove it to the gas station. There is pin size holes in the gas tank. I have por 15 that im going to seal the tank with here soon.

The red light is the charge warning (alternator) light.  It is typically labeled "IGN" but it really has nothing to do with IGNition.  When it is on with the key in the run position, the alternator is not charging the battery.

Amber lights (when present) indicate low/no oil pressure.

I have no idea about the color of any imobilizer warning light as mentioned above.

I don't know, Bill, but I doubt it was an immobilizer issue. He did say he drove it for 20 minutes to get gas. He didn't mention if it was parked with stabilizer in the gas or he drained the old fuel out, but if it started, probably one or the other or both.

dan..  could this red light be the immobilizer light?? eliko12.. is this carb or SPI model?/ think SPIs were late 92?/   anything I have had sitting 2 years..  I would think might be alternator rebuild..  ( anyway does here due to extreme summer and winter temps.. also. might drain gas tank and put in few gallons of 93 octane NON ETHANOL.. also. I would replace the plugs.. NGKs....  where are you in the USA.. ?/ sure some local will be willing to help you.. later bc

Start with checking the battery cable end connections are clean and tight, both at the battery and the other ends. The ground wire is attached to the body in the boot, but the connection may be corroded. The positive cable is attached to the solenoid, which may be a part of the starter on your car.
If none of the turn signals work, and you find other things like brake lights, horn etc. also don't work, suspect the fuse box, not just a fuse or two - the back of the fusebox is not sealed and the riveted connections back there corrode and lose conductivity. If it is just the signals, it may be a fuse or the blinker unit or possibly a loose connection somewhere.
The radio, if it is a modern type with electronic presets may have lost its station settings when it lost power. These types sometimes have 2 power feeds - a small one to maintain settings while switched off, and a larger one to provide the main power for its amplifier etc.

Yeah replaced the oil and oil filter. I drove it 20 minutes to get gas. Ill check today to see if the battery held a Charge after work.