Created by: | Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
| Feb 11, 2018 08:15PM | Spitz | |
| Feb 10, 2018 11:10AM | swindrum | |
| Feb 8, 2018 02:00PM | Spitz | |
| Feb 8, 2018 11:05AM | swindrum | |
| Feb 6, 2018 05:50PM | Spitz | |
| Feb 5, 2018 06:51PM | MD-IN-UK | |
| Feb 5, 2018 09:59AM | thewerewolf | |
| Feb 5, 2018 08:11AM | swindrum | |
| Jan 28, 2018 01:13PM | specialist | |
| Jan 28, 2018 12:21PM | bahowe1 | |
| Jan 21, 2018 10:14PM | ssuperflyoldguy | |
| Jan 21, 2018 09:50PM | Djsteck | Edited: Jan 21, 2018 10:17PM |
Posted:
Feb 11, 2018
08:15PM
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Total posts: 13978
Last post: Jan 15, 2024 Member since:Jan 22, 2003
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The foam is still in there also......need to find a way to get it out or away from any welding.
I was thinking just flat steel, formed to shape, would work
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spitz
The early smooth ones....
Ah yes, the ones that are integral to the floor itself.
Could you cut the flutes off of a regular set of sills and weld on flat steel? If you know a good TIG welder, it would be invisible
Sean Windrum
1996 MGF VVC
1970 1275 GT Racer
66 Austin Countryman
63 997 Cooper (Under Construction)
63 MG 1100
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Total posts: 13978
Last post: Jan 15, 2024 Member since:Jan 22, 2003
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Cars in Garage: 4
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The early smooth ones....
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
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Total posts: 1456
Last post: Jan 31, 2022 Member since:Sep 8, 2003
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Cars in Garage: 1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spitz
Will be watching this one.
Every picture I've seen of MINIs with the sill , "step", cut out, there has been some metal welded in the door opening to stop the worst from happening. I wouldn't trust a rusty front floor from holding things together.
Mine is still on a spit. The sills for mine are not available from anyone that I've tried so far. May just have to go with sheet metal and a bender (break?)
Every picture I've seen of MINIs with the sill , "step", cut out, there has been some metal welded in the door opening to stop the worst from happening. I wouldn't trust a rusty front floor from holding things together.
Mine is still on a spit. The sills for mine are not available from anyone that I've tried so far. May just have to go with sheet metal and a bender (break?)
Sean Windrum
1996 MGF VVC
1970 1275 GT Racer
66 Austin Countryman
63 997 Cooper (Under Construction)
63 MG 1100
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Total posts: 13978
Last post: Jan 15, 2024 Member since:Jan 22, 2003
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Cars in Garage: 4
Photos: 381 WorkBench Posts: 1 |
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Will be watching this one.
Every picture I've seen of MINIs with the sill , "step", cut out, there has been some metal welded in the door opening to stop the worst from happening. I wouldn't trust a rusty front floor from holding things together.
Mine is still on a spit. The sills for mine are not available from anyone that I've tried so far. May just have to go with sheet metal and a bender (break?)
Every picture I've seen of MINIs with the sill , "step", cut out, there has been some metal welded in the door opening to stop the worst from happening. I wouldn't trust a rusty front floor from holding things together.
Mine is still on a spit. The sills for mine are not available from anyone that I've tried so far. May just have to go with sheet metal and a bender (break?)
"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May
"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge
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Total posts: 331
Last post: Oct 22, 2021 Member since:Sep 10, 2007
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I replaced left and right inner and outer sills this past summer. Its a big job even for someone like me, who has worked in a body shop for 40+ years. Maybe because I'm a good deal older and a bit more brittle.
Any rate, if I had to do it all over, I'd do a full floor pan, on a rotisserie. BTW, that would be a great time to take care of any and all rust. That way, once it's all back together again, you won't find yourself dealing with rust again for a good long while.
Any rate, if I had to do it all over, I'd do a full floor pan, on a rotisserie. BTW, that would be a great time to take care of any and all rust. That way, once it's all back together again, you won't find yourself dealing with rust again for a good long while.
IF IT WEREN'T FOR PHYSICS AND LAW ENFORCEMENT, I'D BE UNSTOPPABLE
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Djsteck.. are you doing the welding yourself?? I normally use only quarter pans. as folks do NOT want to spend the money the shipping from the UK.. but If one my personal minis. I would use FULL floor and full boot pan.. just depends on what your budget is for this project.. check with M Machine.then . BMHT and even minispares.com or minisport.com in the UK for prices.. shop around.. later bc
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For me, if the car needs anything more than a small repair to the front pan, I don't see any reason not to do a full floor. Inner and outer sills on these cars are always needing repairs and inside the tunnel is always nasty.
M-machine sells the full pan with sills, tunnel and toeboard for £600 which for me is money well spent considering the time and money to spend piece-ing it all together.
M-machine sells the full pan with sills, tunnel and toeboard for £600 which for me is money well spent considering the time and money to spend piece-ing it all together.
Sean Windrum
1996 MGF VVC
1970 1275 GT Racer
66 Austin Countryman
63 997 Cooper (Under Construction)
63 MG 1100
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Last post: Aug 13, 2020 Member since:Aug 9, 2016
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I did mine 3years ago using 16g galvanized metal sheet. I used thicker metal sheet because the floor gets all the beating, has gotta be thick and rust proof, i weld it with 90amps mig welder from HF. And it’s still intact up to this very day.
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Oh boy, I understand this problem. I just finished doing all mine (and a ton more repairs) and is in a thread on a different forum - restoration mini - same username. I ordered quarter pans - because they were fronts and backs on the left and right....they are WAY cheaper to ship than half or full pans. But... it is much more welding. I did not do heritage, and they worked out fine. All of them will need to be tweaked.
I decided to weld in a piece of stock across the door, maybe 4 inches or so up from the door step area to keep it from separating when I cut out the floor and door step. Then, I cut out the front quarter floor on one side along with the door step, being careful with the tunnel and box (cut spot welds). I then replaced that section with the front quarter, once it was welded and done, cut out the back quarter of the floor and replaced it and joined to the front quarter. Then rinse and repeat on the other side. Then I did the door steps, then the outer sills last. Make sure you have a spot weld cutting tool.
I decided to weld in a piece of stock across the door, maybe 4 inches or so up from the door step area to keep it from separating when I cut out the floor and door step. Then, I cut out the front quarter floor on one side along with the door step, being careful with the tunnel and box (cut spot welds). I then replaced that section with the front quarter, once it was welded and done, cut out the back quarter of the floor and replaced it and joined to the front quarter. Then rinse and repeat on the other side. Then I did the door steps, then the outer sills last. Make sure you have a spot weld cutting tool.
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Can’t find the eating popcorn emoji but love these kinds of posts - i’ve Got several projects in the same condition. I have a fully built pan, a bare pan & a full pan in patch panels. My brother thinks a jig to build full pans is needed since the tunnels may be saveable....
Edited:
Jan 21, 2018
10:17PM
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Last post: Jan 9, 2018 Member since:Jun 13, 2017
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Need to replace both sides of the floor in our MK3 as well as both doorsteps which are virtually gone. Before I order panels I wanted to ask whats the best way to go..Front and rear panels as needed, Full length 1/2 floor with built in inner and outer sills or with inner sills only and fit the outers when floors and doorstep are finished? And is this a case where Heritage panels matter. Can I weld in the doorsteps first to maintain squareness and rigidity before cutting the floors out? Would prefer to keep the car somewhat intact during this part of the repairs and dissasemble as little as possible during this process with the exception of the obvious interior stuff. Sorry for all the questions this is my first time doing floors...Thanks Everyone..
