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 Posted: Jan 26, 2018 10:19AM
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US
Getting back, I'm testing a 1310 cc recent build with lightened flywheel, Swift camshaft, pistons and cyl. head ( Road Rocket ) all Swift as well. I am very pleased with the power and very flat torque curve. It pulls any gear from 1000 rpm. You'd think "so" but this one is atop one of my wide ratio trannys with a overall finial drive ratio of 2.56 to 1. 3000 on it's tack is GPS 68 mph. While I drive one myself I'd like to bult the same spec buy Nick's next camshaft and a little less gear. Steve (CTR)  

 Posted: Jan 22, 2018 04:23PM
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Yes, I was able to trade two sets of Cooper S rods to a SA mini guy for a SA 1100 crank. Part of the deal was to have him grind and restroke the rods to 1.625- 1071 stroke. Still looking for a set of 6 inch rods to work with. Steve (CTR) 

 Posted: Jan 22, 2018 04:10PM
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keep a search going for the South Africa 12G2827 cranks. From memory (disclaimer), the cranks have 2" mains and 1.75" rods. There were a couple of different castings but the stroke was about 70mm. Makes a screamer.

 Posted: Jan 22, 2018 10:03AM
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GB
New cranks are being forged instead of cut from billet - should be stronger and have more revs in them.

 Posted: Jan 22, 2018 07:02AM
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Harv, I have a new crank on the bench. Waiting for the car to appear. They will bring it down and drop off. Maybe I should take pictures and have someone post them for me. 

I have run out of 1505 cranks taken from autos over the years. They were all fine as the front pulley and flywheel/ torque converters were all tight. Now I'm down to cranks needing taper attention or slight wear on the snout. Having them repaired and ground puts them in the range of a new crank now. 

I have broken two cranks under power over the years. I also have a collection of cranks found to be cracked during mag inspection. I already have a 1505 that was stroked. Thinking about sending a few new cranks out west to be ground the std stroke 1.625 rods wedged and tufftrided. It won't be an EN 40 B  but next best thing new and ready. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Jan 21, 2018 09:18PM
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I follow your logic but is the cost justified? What kind of final price will you have for your engine?  Several years ago (at least a dozen) I worked out a deal to buy 7 core Austin America automatic engine/transmisions.  When I went to pick them up they could only find 4. Regardless, having an abundance of the crankshafts to play with and offset grinding of the crank to go to 84mm and 1.625" and having the block offset bored to 73.5mm gave me a couple of 1430cc engines (and lots of spare parts) (may even have a spare crank for sale).
If you can find them the old 1275 1505 cranks still have a lot of revs left.

 Posted: Jan 21, 2018 05:56PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CooperTune
condition of flywheel taper and snout wear. Steve (CTR)
that engine with flywheel taper issue from Richmond.... did you find wear or not-assembled correctly by other mechanic?

 Posted: Jan 21, 2018 01:35PM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by CooperTune
I have read and also believe there are only so many revs in any three main bearing crank. ..............  ............................................................................................ I'm thinking building from a new crank stands to reason. Steve (CTR)
Those parts of the message make sense to me. (The rest is way above my pay-grade!)

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Jan 21, 2018 10:10AM
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I have read and also believe there are only so many revs in any three main bearing crank. There are many factors as to how many there are. Stroke length, compression ratio, red line RPM. Also crank material, modifications and heat treatment. I have some Metro and AA blocks which I don't have cranks for. Thinking about buying some new Metro cranks while you still can, recon some rods with ARP hardware, buy new pistons and build a few short blocks or long blocks in a seasoned block. I'd rather have a .060 O/S engine than a 73.5 mm. I like to have the complete rotating and reciprocating assembly balanced with new two part Cooper S balancer/damper, either std or light weight as well as street light pre or verto clutch and flywheel assembly. I use the uprated Turbo clutch or a blue with light back plate no one needs a orange till racing. Considering the age of many AA cranks and the condition of flywheel taper and snout wear then having it reground and crack checked. I'm thinking building from a new crank stands to reason. Steve (CTR)