Clutch won’t disengage after rear main seal change and clutch change
Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Jan 21, 2018 07:02PM | onetim | |
Jan 21, 2018 06:36PM | 1963SV2 | |
Jan 21, 2018 05:54PM | onetim | Edited: Jan 21, 2018 06:10PM |
Jan 21, 2018 02:10PM | 1963SV2 | |
Jan 20, 2018 09:22PM | malsal | |
Jan 20, 2018 09:03PM | Sciontissst | |
Jan 20, 2018 03:20PM | malsal | |
Jan 20, 2018 01:32PM | Sciontissst | |
Jan 20, 2018 08:57AM | malsal | |
Jan 19, 2018 01:46PM | jedduh01 | |
Jan 19, 2018 12:54PM | onetim | Edited: Jan 19, 2018 01:01PM |
Jan 19, 2018 06:33AM | malsal | |
Jan 19, 2018 03:18AM | helpmymini | |
Jan 18, 2018 09:47PM | Sciontissst | |
Jan 18, 2018 12:46PM | Sciontissst | |
Jan 18, 2018 12:02PM | minimans | |
Jan 18, 2018 09:42AM | Sciontissst | |
Jan 18, 2018 08:38AM | onetim | Edited: Jan 18, 2018 08:46AM |
Jan 17, 2018 10:24PM | Rosebud | Edited: Jan 17, 2018 10:25PM |
Jan 17, 2018 08:03PM | mur |
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There are pretty much 4 main wear issues that *might* be solved using a longer slave rod. 1. worn clevis pin/holes at top of clutch arm. 2. ditto at the bottom. 3. worn ball at end of clutch arm ..or the slot in the release bearing carrier that the ball slides in 4. worn contact plate in the centre of the diaphragm.
Even without any (appreciable) wear at any of these points your clutch setup may dictate a longer slave rod (mine does).
How can you tell? Peel back the rubber boot at the end of the slave. Install standard rod. Have someone fully depress clutch pedal. Observe whether slave piston hits the outer circlip. If it does then you need the longer rod. If it doesn't then a longer rod probably won't hurt ...but it won't help.
Cheers, Ian
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The ONLY reason to fit a longer/adjustable rod is if the slave piston reaches the limit of its travel before the pedal is fully depressed. As mentioned previously, with wear, the piston may run into the outer circlip before the clutch itself is fully disengaged. A longer rod just pushes the piston further up the piston allowing the full amount of travel.
Cheers, Ian
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If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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I guess anything is possible though but all i hear and see is owners trying to get more pedal.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Behind the boot of the Slave Cyl = MIGHT be a Snap ring at the end of the bore.
The Piston inside the slave can bottom out on the snap ring and STOP from moving just enough.
The new tolerances of your new clutch are compounding the wear in the pivots and joints. need more "action" to overcome the new clutch.
To start I would, remove the 2 Big nuts on the clutch Plunger... Get them OUT of the equation .. There are people that run with NO NUTS= or if you just slacken them and forget to re tighten they will fall off and dissapear / Fall off= if the nuts are too tight = this will stop the plunger from actuating the clutch.
Then check for slave operation.
If still no worky... make sure piston is not Stopping out on the Snap ring inside the Slave.
if so = YES the push rod needs a bit more length .. ( adjustable push rod is best, but a nut inside the slave also works (temporarly))
Some people even Bend the lever rod towards the top to account for this 'wear"
to FULLY remedy = new plunger new Pushrod = ALL NEW Clevis Pins = New Lever rods New bleed. Dont forget the clevis on the pedal to Master either!
Welcome to Mini = Fix one thing= Find 4 more!
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When you remove the clutch arm you will probably find it is worn on the ball end and or the clevis pins. It does not take too much wear on a few pieces to stop the clutch from fully disengaging.
Don't forget to re adjust the stop bolt/nut whenever you change a part out.
If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.
Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.
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Good luck. I'm sure you'll get it. The guys here are the best in the world at figuring problems out remotely. They've saved my butt numerous times!
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Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch
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youtube link #1 / youtube link #2 / youtube link #3 / youtube link #4
You're welcome... Good luck!
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You should have no problem with the seal, try to leave it on the primary on the wear area, simply tape the splines if it may come off.
Yes, those bolts come with an anti vibration washer
https://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Clutch/Fittings/2A3657.aspx?0601&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/Clutch%20diaphragm%20bolt.aspx|Back%20to%20search
our host carries these fasteners and the performance version mentioned as well.
Found 23 Messages