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 Posted: Jan 21, 2018 07:02PM
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That’s great Ian, these items were addressed and as you said did not eliminate the issue. One you forgot to mention Is excessive crank shaft end float, which was the start point on my mini. Guess I’m stuck with an adjustable rod like you. Good talk!

 Posted: Jan 21, 2018 06:36PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onetim
Ian, I am sure you are correct, but at the time no one mentioned the circlip limit issue to me, a crap load of people recommended the adjustable rod. It worked. What wear where? Do you want to help me make my car work with a standard rod? 
Maybe that's a good word to describe those making the suggestion ??

There are pretty much 4 main wear issues that *might* be solved using a longer slave rod.  1. worn clevis pin/holes at top of clutch arm.  2. ditto at the bottom.  3. worn ball at end of clutch arm ..or the slot in the release bearing carrier that the ball slides in 4.  worn contact plate in the centre of the diaphragm.

Even without any (appreciable) wear at any of these points your clutch setup may dictate a longer slave rod (mine does).

How can you tell?  Peel back the rubber boot at the end of the slave.  Install standard rod.  Have someone fully depress clutch pedal.  Observe whether slave piston hits the outer circlip.  If it does then you need the longer rod.  If it doesn't then a longer rod probably won't hurt ...but it won't help.

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Jan 21, 2018 05:54PM
 Edited:  Jan 21, 2018 06:10PM
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Ian, I am sure you are correct, but at the time no one mentioned the circlip limit issue to me, a crap load of people recommended the adjustable rod. It worked. What wear where? Do you want to help me make my car work with a standard rod? 

 Posted: Jan 21, 2018 02:10PM
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Quote:
........ I changed all possible wear parts, and bled it several times, but still needed an adjustable slave rod, just about an 1/8" longer and it put the pedal engagement right in the middle.
One would wonder what else you did because the length of the slave rod has *absolutely* no effect on where the clutch takes up.  

The ONLY reason to fit a longer/adjustable rod is if the slave piston reaches the limit of its travel before the pedal is fully depressed.  As mentioned previously, with wear, the piston may run into the outer circlip before the clutch itself is fully disengaged. A longer rod just pushes the piston further up the piston allowing the full amount of travel.

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Jan 20, 2018 09:22PM
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Great. Thanks for letting us know the outcome.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Jan 20, 2018 09:03PM
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UPDATE! I got my new arm, slave rod and clevis pins today. Installed them all and everything is working like normal!

 Posted: Jan 20, 2018 03:20PM
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The nuts are there to stop the clutch overthrowing itself. Yeah like that will ever happen with a Mini clutch system LOL.
I guess anything is possible though but all i hear and see is owners trying to get more pedal.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Jan 20, 2018 01:32PM
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Yea I have it way out. That’s thing is almost pointless. I’m getting my new arm, slave rod and new Clovis pins in the mail today. Hopefully the new parts will allow for more clutch engagement and get everything back to normal

 Posted: Jan 20, 2018 08:57AM
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Good thought and something to definitely look for on the large stop nut Jedduh, but if you look at the 4th video there is plenty of clearance.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Jan 19, 2018 01:46PM
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US
I'm with Malsal...  Slave rod movement - not sufficient.

Behind the boot of the Slave Cyl = MIGHT be a Snap ring at the end of the bore.
  The Piston inside the slave can bottom out on the snap ring  and STOP from moving just enough.

The new tolerances of your new clutch are compounding the wear in the pivots and joints. need more  "action" to overcome the new clutch.

To start I would,  remove the 2 Big nuts on the clutch Plunger... Get them OUT of the equation .. There are people that run with NO NUTS= or if you just slacken them  and forget to re tighten they will fall off and dissapear / Fall off=  if the nuts are too tight = this will stop the plunger from actuating the clutch.

Then check for  slave operation.

If still no worky... make sure piston is not Stopping out on the Snap ring inside the Slave. 
  
if so = YES the push rod needs a bit more length .. ( adjustable push rod is best, but a nut inside the slave also works (temporarly))
  Some people even Bend the lever rod towards the top to account for this 'wear"

to FULLY remedy = new plunger new Pushrod = ALL NEW Clevis Pins = New Lever rods New bleed.  Dont forget the clevis on the pedal to Master either!

Welcome to Mini = Fix one thing=  Find 4 more! 

 Posted: Jan 19, 2018 12:54PM
 Edited:  Jan 19, 2018 01:01PM
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Check/replace the clutch pedal pin as well, kind of an on your head job with the seat in, but I didn't find it as difficult as some would claim. use a new split or cotter pin for safety. I changed all possible wear parts, and bled it several times, but still needed an adjustable slave rod, just about an 1/8" longer and it put the pedal engagement right in the middle.

 Posted: Jan 19, 2018 06:33AM
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Looking at the first video it would seem that your slave rod is ending its length of travel before releasing the clutch 100%, the clutch arm should be a lot closer to the housing. This can be due to wear or hydraulics to overcome the wear many owners have used longer or adjustable slave rods. Temporarily you can install a nut (acorn nut is best) on the end of the rod inside the slave unit which will basically lengthen the rod and will allow it to fully release the clutch.
When you remove the clutch arm you will probably find it is worn on the ball end and or the clevis pins. It does not take too much wear on a few pieces to stop the clutch from fully disengaging.
Don't forget to re adjust the stop bolt/nut whenever you change a part out.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Jan 19, 2018 03:18AM
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return spring on the actuation arm? I fiddled with a few different springs until I got the best feel. I also made an adjustable arm that fits in the slave. Having pieces from all over the world I think I just had a collection that was shorter than before. Once I got my hydraulics figured out mine works fine.

Good luck. I'm sure you'll get it. The guys here are the best in the world at figuring problems out remotely. They've saved my butt numerous times!

Mark Looman, Ada Michigan 1967 Austin Cooper S
 Posted: Jan 18, 2018 09:47PM
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So now my clutch seems to engage and the gears sometimes go in, needs a little force, and my clutch bites only about a half inch off the floor

 Posted: Jan 18, 2018 12:46PM
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I put the clutch in the correct way with the lipped part toward the motor. I got a new plunger in the mail today and a new arm and Clovis pins in by the weekend so I’m going to change all those parts also. I’m hoping that’ll fix it or I’ll be tearing it all out again.

 Posted: Jan 18, 2018 12:02PM
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Doesn't matter how tight the bolts are it won't effect the clutch operation (Not good for the threads though!) I think you need to strip it out again and see whats going on, Start with the primary gear end float and work your way out from there. from the video it certainly looks like your getting enough travel to seperate the plate. I dont suppose you put the plate in backwards? that would do it...................

Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch

 Posted: Jan 18, 2018 09:42AM
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Yea the housing was broken from before i owned the car, the flywheel is close to the housing but it doesn't touch. That how it was before i took it apart also. I started it after the clutch change but it just didn't go into gear. I think i had made the 3 diaphragm spring bolts wayyyy too tight.

 Posted: Jan 18, 2018 08:38AM
 Edited:  Jan 18, 2018 08:46AM
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At 5 seconds in on video 3, it looks like the ring gear is hung up on the engine/trans housing. Will the engine bar over? could be an illusion. At 22 seconds in it looks like a pry bar was used to free the flywheel at some point? broken housing?

 Posted: Jan 17, 2018 10:24PM
 Edited:  Jan 17, 2018 10:25PM
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US
Reformated links:

youtube link #1 / youtube link #2 / youtube link #3 / youtube link #4

You're welcome... Good luck!

 

Michael, Santa Barbara, CA

. . . the sled, not the flower

      Poser MotorSports

 Posted: Jan 17, 2018 08:03PM
mur
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Carefully extract the primary gear and inspect the foward thrust, making certain that it is installed in the correct way. Perhaps the flywheel was pinching the primary preventing it from turning, or worse, the thrust was broken and now the pieces are hanging out by the input gear. Chamfered edge of the thrust goes forward towards the crank shoulder.

You should have no problem with the seal, try to leave it on the primary on the wear area, simply tape the splines if it may come off.

Yes, those bolts come with an anti vibration washer

https://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Clutch/Fittings/2A3657.aspx?0601&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/Clutch%20diaphragm%20bolt.aspx|Back%20to%20search

our host carries these fasteners and the performance version mentioned as well.

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