I recently had a Bean car in the shop. While a nice car over all it was suffering from poor suspension work. Who ever did the drum to 7.5 disc failed to torque or loc tab the ball joints. The rack u bolts were left loose and the rear was set at 2 degrees negitive with a lot of toe out. He was confused why his rear almost new 145/12 s were worn out on the inner edge. Two new tires waiting for an alignment. I will shoot for 1/16 to 1 /32 toe in and 1/2 neg at the rear.

Anyone have any thoughts on rear sway bars? Steve (CTR)

Spank, Thanks for the articles. Jim

Keith Calver has an article on suspension setup specs that is a darned good setting to start with. It will transform your mini and will make your stock setting "go-cart" mini feel like a damned F1 car by comparison. In other words, do all of it and you'll be amazed.

I believe in the rear he recommends zero toe to 1/16 toe in at the rear and negative 1/2 degree in the rear but as Hunter2 says, negative 1 is ok too.

https://www.minimania.com/SUSPENSION___Basic_set_up_method_1048
https://www.minimania.com/SUSPENSION___Basic_Priorities_1083

On Minis that I used for long haul driving, I zeroed toe at the rear to eliminate unnecessary tread wear & added <1 deg. of negative camber.  Always a compromise.

Depends upon how you intend to use the car and what size and type of wheels and tires being used.

Thank you for all the replies. What would the rear settings be?

I did a tech feature on fitting and setting up the new style MS ones a while back - simple to fit, easily adjustable.

MS73EVO is the part number, our host only seems to list them as part of a full kit but I'm sure a friendly phone call could sort something out.

Ditto

I've tried 3 different styles-- all work ore or less but all needed lots of filing and drilling and or redrilling of holes. My advice is you can just use your existing stock ones and simply mark and file out the hole to get the camber you want and then add washers or do more filing to get the toe you want.

One is free and about 20minutes more manual labor than fitting the aftermarket ones you paid good $ for.


Just my experience. Hopefully others can chime in with a better experience and mine were all 1-offs.

Has any one used these brackets? What is your opinion on them? There are several types on the market.