Cooper tune.. will do.. fyi. I am trying to buy more 2 nd generation Chokes again.  and need the engines for them.. later bc

Thanks keep me informed about the core engine purchase. Also off topic, what I could really use is several 1275 cranks AA or Metro would be fine. Good snout, tail and thrust all important. Requiring .010/.020 regrind OK. Thanks Steve (CTR)

cooper tune..  off  the subject .. but you still need some 1275 cc engines and manuel trannys.. I was going to try to buy 20 of them after christmas from the UK..  later bc

Thanks for the replies. When I got there the bare shell was missing the front wings. A couple pallets and the fork lift put it right in and I closed the tail gate and that was that. Went in rear first on tie downs required. Steve (CTR)

It's a bare shell he is hauling the body will be on a pallet there will be nothing touching the tailgate Spitz.

Now if you are hauling a complete car as stated nose first is the way to go.

Don't think it's agood idea to go tail first into a truck.
If the front wheels are on the tail gate, that's a bit too much weight for those little hinges or cables.

I've only done it once....and it was nose first.

A moke in the box, a moke on the trailer , going to l believe , to Some guy who wears an Irish kilt in MD

Big AL

Here is Hugh's truck with a Moke in it.

It doesn't matter which way you load it because on a longbed pickup it won't overhang the tailgate. When I have hauled complete Minis and bodyshells in the bed of a pickup, I have always loaded them nose first. When dealing with a complete car, putting the engine in front keeps the weight distribution more user friendly. Also, with an empty bodyshell the front is lighter and easer to lift up by hand when loading. Once you have the front supported on the bed you can lift the rear and slide it. As far as tieing down the shell, a large strap running across the body but behind the A pillars works great. If it's snug but not "gorilla-ed down" the straps won't damage the shell. Good advice on building up a platform for the shell to ride on though, as your sills will fare much better that way. If it's a complete car it can ride on the bed of the truck without anything under it. Been there, done that...

Tongue in cheek ALex, tongue in cheek

Big AL

When transporting a bare shell, I make use of the myriad of factory holes in the floor pan and screw/bolt it to a transit pallet - the pallet can then be strapped/attached to the trailer/vehicle it is being moved on.  With no real need to hold the shell down hard with ratchet straps (I do still put one through the windows as a safety strap) there is little chance or bending or damaging it.

With a comment like that, perhaps Big Al should change his username to carelessoldminimover49...

A far more important consideration is actually fastening the load. I will most certainly take the time to fabricate quality tie off points to mount to the shell before any considerable distance of shell transport. A bare shell is less rigid and anywhere you may place a strap will either damage the strap or the shell faster than you might think. Jedduhis very correct about lifting the shell up to clear the wheel wells.

There is no point in causing more work by saving a couple of minutes on transport.

Who gives a S***, stupic question, just throw it in the box & if it's still there when you arrive, BONUS !!!!!

Big AL

Boot first= let nose hang  over tailgaite
 Put 2 or 4 pallets in Bed to lift shell over the 'wheel well humps"

   Lifting it all the way in and out might be the most difficult as 3 men can do it but its a hump.

Whichever way has the shortest overhang from the floorpan to maximise comtact with the bed. 

Hauling a bare shell in 8 ft. GMC p/u nose or boot first? Steve (CTR)