Whenever I install a spade connector, I clean about twice the bare wire necessary, twisting the insulation as I remove it. Then I fold the bare wire double so it just fills the contact crimping portion, then crimp it. Lastly, if it has an insulation crimp, I do that too. This way, I get a very secure electrical connection with effectively twice the contact area. A really fine wire could be tripled or quadrupled.

I also follow Kieth Calver's recommendation to never put solder in a joint under vibration so it isn't stiffened and is allowed to flex. That would include not tinning the wire before adding a crimped connector.

So far so good. I think I fixed it.  First all the wiring and relays are good for the directionals. It turned out to be my error. I changed the inline fuse holders to the spade type fuse block. I used those crimp type female connectors with covers. The brown power supply  wire is so small in diameter that was not making a solid connection. Every time I touched it was good and signals worked, then hop back into the mini and it wouldn't. Drove me crazy. Lost my mind.

I made a jumper wire to bypass the fuse. Worked because  touched it, then it would't.

So this morning I made another  jumper wire to bypass the fuse block and go directly to the directional wire. Worked. Great.

I changed out the power supply female spade connector to the fuse block built up the wire with solder.

I'm apprenticing for the Prince of Darkness.

Where did you connect the other end of your jumper wire... fuse box to where?

Last night after much thinking, I would isolate the input . I added a wire from the  main fuse box. I have  directional indicators again. Now  I going to redo my spade connection to my inline fuse box. Hopefully that 's it.

Happens all the time! Lucas, Prince of Darkness does not tolerate pride.

I don't know your particular car's wiring diagram but once the hazards were fitted to cars their wiring was pretty much standardized for several years.

Succinctly, in most British cars, the hazard light switch is often the source of both turn signal and hazard lamp operation.  The hazard flasher/relay will be powered via a purple wire which will be "hot" all the time.  There should be a light-green/pink wire leaving the hazard relay going to the hazard switch.  There should also be a dark green wire going to the hazard switch.  The dark green wire is switched power for the turn signals.

When the hazard switch is "off", power on the green wire is supposed to pass through the hazard switch and on to the turn signal flasher.  When the hazard switch is turned "on", the green wire no longer passes through to the turn signals.  AND, when the switch is on, the green/white and green/red wires on the hazard switch are connected to each other so lamps on both sides of the car flash at the same time.  

The first thing to try is cycling the hazard switch on and off a whole bunch of times.  Then try the turn signals.  If they work... great.  If not....

Start your troubleshooting at the hazard switch and have the wiring diagram at hand.  Confirm that with the key out of the ignition that there is 12V on the hazard flasher purple wire.  Then turn the key to run and confirm there is 12V on the green wire at the hazard switch.   Let us know what you find.

I have a late model and the turn signal went from intermittent to completely dead, which is a good thing. When it was intermittent it drove me crazy. I got power to the flasher unit, switched out flasher with another - nothing. I measured the power between the line fuse - nothing. Just an hour before , I had power across. Made a jumper wire , signals worked. Put everything away including the mini and I had to test it one more time because I was so proud of myself. Nothing.  I made another jumper wire - nothing. Now it's too dark to work. 

In the Haynes manual they call  (92)  the direction indicator relay. and (23) direction indicator/ hazard warning light unit.  what are these?