The OZ Mini van has an oil pressure warning light which has never come on...BUT...when the wiring to the connector on the tranny separated and began flapping about at highway speed, I soon had a short, blown fuse and lost brake lights, signal lights....

Fortunately, I was less than 25 miles from home having left Mid-Ohio & then Milwaukee and driving across the continent.

That connection will never separate again!  However, will check the route & secure all the warning light wiring before the 1185cc power unit goes in.

Another wiring matter...the OZ Mini van has a backup light switch that activates the rear parking lights...will change that to light clear/white backup lights.

That's interesting.  Was this something an inspector would look at/for during annual inspections?

I have not used braided pressure gauge line on my Mini but I have used braided hose on other cars for both oil cooler lines and oil gauge lines.  With oil cooler lines I have typically split pieces of heater hose and secured them to the braid with wire ties where there was a possibility of the hoses rubbing on surfaces.  

Just want to make a point about S/S braided lines. Last time I bought some here in Ontario ,the braided hose had to be covered. That was code . Mine came with a beautiful black translucent vinyl covering. I also have used coloured shrink tubing, and tie strap the lines down. Cheers

1/8" hardware store compression fitting and a $7.50 oil pressure switch and Voila.

As far as the parking lights, an easy switch to a double filament socket (as supplied by our sponsor), two new bulbs, and finding the harness power wire was all it took. It galls me that the PO who made the conversion of the headlamps didn't care enough to make sure the parking lights worked.

I have a MK 1 Austin woody wagon but l have an oil gauge and a temperature gauge

I do not trust the oil light set up, l want to know what oil pressure and water tempature l have at all times

Once the oil pressure light comes on, it may be to late

That's just me

Big AL

It always seems to be a problem and or limited selection with the correct dipping headlamps for USA use and most do not offer a parking light in the headlamp. If you decide to keep the Hella lights just switch the turn signal lights to dual filament ones and use the second filament for your parking lights, they were used on a lot of Brit cars and are readily available i installed a set on my car from a Morris Minor.

Got it done easily. Just another "small" issue with a car that had way more electrical issues than was advertised. Purchased from Miniguy, supposedly all items worked. Small things like originally the car had the front running/parking lights inside the headlights. So, when the headlights were upgraded to Hella units, they simply cut the wires to the running lights. Pulling apart a 52 year old harness was not fun. I guess a lot of older cars with many owners will sport butchered wiring systems. Don't get me started on the rust . . . .

That sounds like an early speedo. Glad it works. You should be able to have this up and running however you like in no time.

My speedometer has three lights. Lower Left - High Beam Lower Right - Ignition Upper Center - wiring diagram shows the White/Purple wire as going to the Oil Pressure Switch. When I ground that wire the light comes on. Can not vouch for originality of the Speedometer.

Sometimes when fitting a tee to a Mini with a distributor with a vacuum advance unit they will hit/foul each other. You may need to move the distributor around one tooth so that the vacuum advance is out of the way and they clear each other. The stainless lines are good and hold up well if they move around and rub just fasten them to something fixed with a cable tie or something similar. You can also use a small piece of hose (slit length ways to install) to stop the line rubbing.

I missed that detail Terry. I expect the oil pressure to be the right hand amber lamp and the oil filter bypass to be the left hand amber lamp, without any green lamp at the top on a MK I. I have a later speedometer in one of my cars right now, and so it has the green lamp at the top and I use it as a turn signals indicator, which I prefer to the illuminated stalk at night.

Perhaps you could show us a picture of your speedometer, both the front and back. Before any plumbing gets underway, it makes sense to know that the lamps and wiring are correct.

Thanks. That's what I was looking for - the .125" NPT data. Tees are easy to find.

My solution for the braided lines is to wrap them in one of the webbed harness wraps.
Not sure it is a permanent solution, but on one car it has worked for a couple of years.
Covering anything does have the down side of hiding potential problems though.

Are you sure the oil pressure light is at the top?
Terry

Go to the home center.  Buy a 1/8"NPT short hex nipple and a 1/8"NPT Tee.  Remove the oil pressure adapter from the block.  Assemble the nipple to the Tee, then install the other end of the nipple in the block.  Put your pressure switch in one port of the Tee, put the gauge fitting in the other.

I don't like the nylon lines either but I do like the braided lines Mur doesn't like.  At the parts store you will find they sell a generic oil pressure line kit that uses copper tubing.

I am pretty sure the T you need is a common part. 

Many people fit oil pressure gauge lines that are braided stainless steel on the outside. Having had one, and over the years watched it wear through and remove the paint from anything it was in contact with, I now use original copper lines and rubber flex lines once again. The plastic lines are easy to run, don’t damage anything, but are not long lasting. I would recommend original lines.

I have a 1966 Morris Traveller Woodie which came with an 850 engine. A 1275 was installed and an oil pressure gauge was added. I want to re-connect the oil pressure warning light in the center of the speedometer at the top. I have found the wire. Now to find the right fitting. The oil pressure pipe attached to the block fitting, below cylinder #4, is the plastic version and I'd rather not have to replace that line with another. Does anyone know of an adaptor fitting that will screw into the oil passage in the block, to which I can connect both the wire and the pipe to the gauge? I know I can replace everything and get what I need, but I'm hoping the brain trust has come up with a solution to this issue before. Thanks,