I doubt the timing chain would have jumped - if it did it would likely be overdue for replacement.

I'm not sure about SPi engines, but most Mini engines have a small port on the clutch housing that will let you see timing marks on the flywheel. Not easy to read and a bit of contortion may be necessary, but they are useful in verifying that the pulley mark has not shifted. A worn damper pulley will allow the mark to shift and some engines lose their timing scale, making the flywheel marks useful.

If you get the ignition statically set for top-dead-centre, the spark will not be advanced enough for smooth running. Depending on your electronic ignition, you may need to advance static timing according to the brand. If it is a 123 ignition, you set static timing for '0" advance and as soon as the engine reaches 500rpm, the timing curve jumps to the specified idle advance.

The main jet should not be dead flush with the bridge, but down about 2mm to 3mm, where it might be a little lean or a little rich.

Ok thanks for the tips. Additionally, the car ran fine after I filled up until I got home. The carb is already back to all its original components and I have also already set the jet back to level with the bridge. Is it possible the timing chain has jumped when the car was shut down? When I was resetting the timing, I was spinning the engine the correct direction. I have a Haynes manual and I was following all the steps correctly. The timing marks on the crank pulley were lined up and I know #1 is the pulley side of the block.

Unfortunately, with all that you have tried, it sounds like you will need to start over from the beginning.

Start with static ignition stuff.  Don't do this by the compression tester and eyeballing through the plug hole.  Remove the rocker cover.  Turn the engine over by hand in the NORMAL direction of rotation.  Watch the timing marks on the front.  Stop when the TDC marks line up on the front of the engine and pulley.  Grab the rocker arms over piston #1 (water pump end of engine).  If the arms are tight and cannot be wiggled, turn the engine over through another complete turn.  Stop at the TDC mark again and grab the rocker arms.  When the TDC mark lines up AND you can wiggle the rocker arms over #1, you are at #1 TDC on the firing stroke.  Now look at your dizzy cap and rotor.  The rotor arm should be pointing to the plug lead that goes to piston #1.  If not, turn the dizzy body until it looks like the rotor is pointing to where the #1 plug lead is.  The remaining leads go on the cap COUNTERCLOCKWISE in the order 1-3-4-2 from where you located cable #1.  Once you get the engine started you will have to set the dynamic timing for your electronic ignition.

Crank the engine over on the starter and confirm you have spark at each plug.  Let us know if you don't.

I'm sorry you tried mixing carb parts and tweaking the carb adjustments.  That complicates things.  As Norm said, clean the carb (mainly inside the float bowl and float valve) to insure that any debris and gum/varnish is removed.  Then set the carb up for the "nominal" start settings.  I cannot help you with HIF adjustments.  Others here can advise you on the basic "get started" settings.  You can also read up on the process by visiting the Technical pages at the Burlen website.

Get the ignition sorted first, then move on to fuel.  Regardless, having tinkered with both, you will need to reset/adjust both.

Most likely you got some crud in your fuel supply from running dry and you either need to clean out your fuel float valve(s), float chamber(s), replace inline fuel filter and/or clear the line from the fuel tank (the sock filter on the take up tube inside the tank can become dirty and clogged, clear it by blowing some air the other way), or your fuel pump is acting up.


Hard to say if all of your described messing with the carbs and ignition will have messed anything else up, but hopefully you can get those all back where they were (as you said, the car ran great before running it dry).


N

First off, hello all and thanks for the input to come. Before I get into my issue, I'll provide some specifics on my Mini.....

I have a 1989 Mini Thirty I imported from the UK while i was stationed over there. It has a 1275 A+ swapped in with a 12A engine VIN, which from my research puts it as a early 90's SPI. However, it has been retrofitted back to a single SU HIF44 and has electronic ignition. If you need more info to properly advise, feel free to ask.

The Issue:  I went on a drive with my local car club and she ran like a dream. Pulled in all 4 gears, started up after each of our several stops, no worries. Did run out of gas trying to stretch it to a preferred station, but got some gas from a good samaritan, filled her up and drove home. Went out to start her up to drive to tech insp for a SCCA road rally, and she would barely idle. In my frustration/panic, I tried all of the things: messed with dizzy location, messed with mixture(as I'd had an issue with that earlier this year and it seemed similar). Eventually, I found the piston in the SU wasn't jumping slightly on start attempts and if I used my finger to lift it, she would rev up the higher I lifted. I left it, and took my Pajero on the rally instead.

Got back to try and fix it, swapped some parts between another SU I have and got the carb to start functioning as it should. Went to reset the timing back, put engine at TDC #1(verified by hooking my compression tester to #1 spark plug hole ans rolling the car in gear till I got compression. Then looked through spark plug hole to verify piston at just before top of travel). This is where things got weird, the dizzy body(vac adv and ign module) weren't in the positions i was used to them being in, and when I lined up #1 spark plug with where the rotor was pointing in the dizzy, she wouldn't do anything. Turns over, but no attempt at starting. So I looked into possibly not having fuel or good spark. Took fuel-in line of carb and was getting plenty of fuel from pump. Checked each plug against the engine block and all had good, bright spark.

So I went back to the dizzy, set it back to roughly where I remembered it being, and got my first signs of life. A little more fiddling, and I got it back to running, but only if the choke is out some amount. Push it in all the way and she dies. I'm at a complete loss, especially since it would seem the car will only run when the cap is positioned with #1 wire about 90 degrees after the rotor reaches TDC.

Any ideas??????