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 Posted: Oct 30, 2017 03:02AM
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my advice is do what werewolf said, then report to us what you've found and ask our advice then based on that

 Posted: Oct 29, 2017 06:27PM
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Thanks for the advice

If anyone else has any ideas please let me know

thanks in advance for all the help

 Posted: Oct 29, 2017 06:08PM
 Edited:  Oct 29, 2017 07:34PM
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well.. it is real simple.. go in person and drive the mini for about 30-45 mins..  I recommend NEVER to buy any used car.. sight unseen.. NEVER buy from a broker..  go check the title against the vin plate..   IF you can NOT do this.  you need to go to  your www.craigslist.org and just buy a use POS honda..btw. I have imported and sold also 500 classic  minis and mokes in the last 20 years..being a NC lic dealer..  might take  advantage of some of my  knowledge.. later bc

 Posted: Oct 29, 2017 05:35PM
 Edited:  Oct 29, 2017 05:38PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewerewolf
well..  since you are  nervous nilly..   I really do NOT think you need to buy a classic mini..  btw for mere 6 quid.. you can go to archives at www.britishmotormuseum.co.uk and get all the info about this mini.. later bc
Please by all means tell me how to get more information

Not afraid to spend the money at on the info at all

Im nervous about spending I large sum of money on a piece of junk is all. I think that is a pretty reasonable concern

My mini knowledge is growing hourly but occasionally I will need to ask questions to experts such as yourself.

 Posted: Oct 29, 2017 04:40PM
 Edited:  Oct 29, 2017 06:05PM
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well..  since you are  nervous nilly.. Maybe you  really do NOT think you need to buy a classic mini..  btw for mere 6 quid.. you can go to archives at www.britishmotormuseum.co.uk and get all the info about this mini.. later bc

 Posted: Oct 29, 2017 03:55PM
 Edited:  Oct 29, 2017 03:56PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewerewolf
rscott...  go to www.bmh-ltd.com  and go to archives.. and just  get a British motor heritage cert for the mini.. abou $80.  tells you when  go was born.. ect.  later bc
I will definitely do that if I buy the car
Right now I'm looking for information to help determine if the Vin # is even correct for the car.
With the format being off I'm afraid to buy it at this point

I was hoping someone could tell me that they have seen that format before

 Posted: Oct 29, 2017 03:34PM
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rscott...  go to www.bmh-ltd.com  and go to archives.. and just  get a British motor heritage cert for the mini.. abou $80.  tells you when  go was born.. ect.  later bc

 Posted: Oct 29, 2017 12:56PM
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was really hoping someone might know why the vin format is off 

What a stressful weekend!  

 Posted: Oct 29, 2017 10:11AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheleker
Like with any other car, there is lots to learn. There are many articles on this web site that will help. Here's one to start with. //www.minimania.com/Mini_Identification__Identification_by_Chassis_Number-VIN__Standard_Cars
Thanks for the information
I am semi concerned now because the way this vin is laid out does not seem to match the format of the one described in the post you linked me to for the 69-74 English built section

the link says it should have the following format

X-A2S1N-XXX-A

The one I'm considering has a different format?

XA2S1-n-33084A

Does anyone know what this means? 
Any idea why the format is not correct?

 Posted: Oct 29, 2017 09:28AM
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US
Like with any other car, there is lots to learn. There are many articles on this web site that will help. Here's one to start with. //www.minimania.com/Mini_Identification__Identification_by_Chassis_Number-VIN__Standard_Cars

 Posted: Oct 29, 2017 07:36AM
 Edited:  Oct 29, 2017 08:47AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Mini
Depending on where you attempt to register the car in good old California, they may let you register up to 1975. That said, some DMV's in California stick to the pre-68 rule. Bottom line on that is you won't get anything newer into California than 1975. Now, for your "pipe dream" Honda powered Mini...good luck with that. You'll find that after spending $20 large on converting it you'll sell it within 6 months to a year and be lucky to get $12 to $15 large back. Easy way to flush money away!
I was only joking about the Honda thing

What do you think about $5300?

Also is there anything we can learn from the vin #

XA2S1-n-33084A

The title currently has the manufacture as "Austin" is that correct

Also I noticed that the Vin tag has another tag next to it called the commission no?

On the vin tag it says
it seems to be riveted to front radiator support? correct spot?

Screen_Shot_2017_10_29_at_10_17_12_AM
post image on forums



Is that normal?

 Posted: Oct 29, 2017 07:09AM
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Depending on where you attempt to register the car in good old California, they may let you register up to 1975. That said, some DMV's in California stick to the pre-68 rule. Bottom line on that is you won't get anything newer into California than 1975. Now, for your "pipe dream" Honda powered Mini...good luck with that. You'll find that after spending $20 large on converting it you'll sell it within 6 months to a year and be lucky to get $12 to $15 large back. Easy way to flush money away!

"Retired:  No Job, No Money, Wife and I!  Will travel anywhere for Minis"

[email protected]

 Posted: Oct 29, 2017 06:36AM
 Edited:  Oct 29, 2017 06:44AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CooperTune
Unless a S model 70 is just another wind up window hidden hinge mini. By being the first there are odd things about the car. I'd expect it to have a two bolt per side front sub frame and a hydro car. Fast forward to 86 16 years less rust they are back to dry suspension. Seat belts that work, off set dash with tach, Astro air vents, rubber mounted sub frame with dry suspension which can be set for fully adjustable castor, camber, toe and ride height. Rod change tranny and linkage. While you loose your 10 inch wheels you get big old 8.4 disc, spaced drums and 12 inch wheels. 

The car I'm suggesting is a mid 80s mayfair all dolled up, nice wood dash three clock off set, 8.4 disc, spaced rear drums, all brake parts new and or rebuilt to include wheel bearings ball joints rod ends bushings and all adjustable suspension, mounted on freshly powder coated sub frame with upgraded body mounts, with Hi Los and new springs and adjustable shocks 5X12 alloy wheels. Engine and tranny rebuilt to factory specs. 998 engine rebuilt with new rings, bearings, oil pump, timing chain gears and tensioner, cyl head rebuilt with hard seats and all the latest lead free parts to include in. & ex. valves, guides, springs, caps and keepers rocker shaft, lifters, water pump. The reason the car was rebuilt stock is it gave 50 mpg every tank. Fly in drive it home doesn't matter where you live if a road goes there you can do it. 

The car was fully surveyed a year ago and was found to require $6500. in repairs to make it a need nothing driver. That work was completed and it still has two small rust areas that you can cover with your hand total, really smaller than that. 

Sorry if I'm messing with your thread. Giving you an idea of how to get a small project. Buy a needs nothing car! And welcome to the Zoo. Steve (CTR)
Do I dare mention I was planning to do a Honda rebuild with performance everything ?......

lol im jk 
I have no idea what my plan I for this little car is.
I think my desire for an older one is for some reason my brain is telling me that the older it is the more valuable it is...


Why do you say except if you live in CA

I know the S is very desirable but I think an S project will be slightly out of my range. 
What year did it go from mini to mini cooper

I have seen so many variations. 1972s that are called Mk2 and 1969 that are called Mk1

 Posted: Oct 29, 2017 06:32AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewerewolf
hi rscott9399 ... well this depends on HOW CHEAP ?/   this is NOT really that bad.. guys this is 47 year old mini.   and most classic minis have some rust.. main thing.. to me  run and drive Ok.. clean US title?? does it smoke.. change gears ok??  later bc   Monte Carlo Minis LTD
Thanks for all the info

It runs and drives really nice it seems. The owner sent me a video of the car running and driving down the road.

The car I think is a fair price at wait for it....  $5300

Its the $1k shipping I'm incurring that makes its $6300

 Posted: Oct 29, 2017 05:51AM
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US
Unless a S model 70 is just another wind up window hidden hinge mini. By being the first there are odd things about the car. I'd expect it to have a two bolt per side front sub frame and a hydro car. Fast forward to 86 16 years less rust they are back to dry suspension. Seat belts that work, off set dash with tach, Astro air vents, rubber mounted sub frame with dry suspension which can be set for fully adjustable castor, camber, toe and ride height. Rod change tranny and linkage. While you loose your 10 inch wheels you get big old 8.4 disc, spaced drums and 12 inch wheels. 

The car I'm suggesting is a mid 80s mayfair all dolled up, nice wood dash three clock off set, 8.4 disc, spaced rear drums, all brake parts new and or rebuilt to include wheel bearings ball joints rod ends bushings and all adjustable suspension, mounted on freshly powder coated sub frame with upgraded body mounts, with Hi Los and new springs and adjustable shocks 5X12 alloy wheels. Engine and tranny rebuilt to factory specs. 998 engine rebuilt with new rings, bearings, oil pump, timing chain gears and tensioner, cyl head rebuilt with hard seats and all the latest lead free parts to include in. & ex. valves, guides, springs, caps and keepers rocker shaft, lifters, water pump. The reason the car was rebuilt stock is it gave 50 mpg every tank. Fly in drive it home doesn't matter where you live if a road goes there you can do it. 

The car was fully surveyed a year ago and was found to require $6500. in repairs to make it a need nothing driver. That work was completed and it still has two small rust areas that you can cover with your hand total, really smaller than that. 

Sorry if I'm messing with your thread. Giving you an idea of how to get a small project. Buy a needs nothing car! And welcome to the Zoo. Steve (CTR)

 Posted: Oct 29, 2017 05:07AM
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hi rscott9399 ... well this depends on HOW CHEAP ?/   this is NOT really that bad.. guys this is 47 year old mini.   and most classic minis have some rust.. main thing.. to me  run and drive Ok.. clean US title?? does it smoke.. change gears ok??  later bc   Monte Carlo Minis LTD

 Posted: Oct 29, 2017 02:49AM
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What state is the car in? Anytime you are looking at buying a Mini long distance, you should probably look at it in person or see if a competent Mini owner is close by. Most of us here would help out to look at it for you if it was close. As to the color, they had a purple in the 70's, called black tulip. That ain't it on this car. The fact that it runs and drives is a plus. Also, as Chuck said, rust is like an iceburg...much more there than you imagine. You said you'd prefer a 70's Mini over an 80's Mini as it's more classic. Well, unless you're going to live in California I'd take an 80's Mini over a 70's Mini any day! The bodies are pretty much the same, but things like brakes are much better on the 80's cars than a 70 car. As far as classic Minis go, IMHO, you have MK1 & MK2, then you have the rollup window cars. If you want a rollup windows car, then I'd go as new as possible without buying a reVIN. Anyway, good luck and hope you find a good car you can enjoy!

"Retired:  No Job, No Money, Wife and I!  Will travel anywhere for Minis"

[email protected]

 Posted: Oct 28, 2017 08:00PM
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Thanks for the reply. 
What were the original colors in 1970?

Im going to guess purple wasn't one of them so that is how you can tell its been repainted?

 Posted: Oct 28, 2017 07:42PM
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US
First off, welcome!

Second - If cheleker chimes in, listen. He’s been working on Minis for many decades and has seen it all.

I’ll add my vote to pass on this one as well for the same reasons already outlined. This is a repainted car showing significant rust and bubbling beneath the paint. It’s in Colorado, a state with winters. It’s not a special Mini and will never have a value commensurate with purchase price added to the time and money you will likely need to invest in it to repair it correctly. And that’s only addressing the body without considering mechanicals.

Hope that helps.

SE7EN

 Posted: Oct 28, 2017 07:36PM
 Edited:  Oct 28, 2017 07:36PM
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its currently a daily driver

looks to be be all original except wheels I think

I don't want to disclose the exact price yet but lets say its more then 5k and less then 7.5k lol
Difficult part is, its across the country so I would not be able to see it before I buy it
Def a risk

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