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 Posted: Aug 4, 2019 03:26PM
 Edited:  Aug 4, 2019 03:27PM
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I did see his post, but I missed the bit on the length - looks like we came to the same number tho. Thanks!

 Posted: Aug 4, 2019 03:02PM
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Look at a post from dklawson earlier in this post. it has all of the dimensions for all these parts

 Posted: Aug 4, 2019 02:47PM
 Edited:  Aug 4, 2019 03:25PM
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I know this is an old thread, but can anyone tell me the length and diameter of the pushrod please? My switch works fine and I have the correct plunger and spring, I just need the little push rod, I figure I can make one out of a drill bit once I know the size or at least the length.

Edit: I got out my old drill bits and found a 7/32" fit inside the spring perfectly, and the length (after a bit of calculating and experimenting) seems to be exactly 1/2". Just FYI......

 Posted: Apr 21, 2018 06:37AM
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Thanks John

 Posted: Apr 20, 2018 07:51PM
mur
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Awesome!

 Posted: Apr 20, 2018 06:49PM
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email sent.
found a couple while looking through some transmissions last night

 Posted: Apr 16, 2018 06:46PM
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Still looking for this reverse switch with steel plunger and spring. If anyone has one they can let go plz pm me. Thks

 Posted: Nov 20, 2017 02:34PM
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 Posted: Nov 20, 2017 09:51AM
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 Posted: Nov 17, 2017 06:55PM
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850mini. If you have a spare reverse switch I would be interested in it if is working. Plz let let me know Thks, Stephen988@aol.com

 Posted: Nov 10, 2017 03:17AM
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Mur's idea of a spacer is a good one. It will also add a bit more spring load to the detent plunger, to help avoid landing in the reverse gate when shifting fast from 2>3.
I use a red Yankee made die spring in there for this, it works great. But I have no reverse switch on this car.

Kevin G

1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.

 Posted: Nov 9, 2017 04:38PM
mur
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At the top of the image is the switch body and the plunger from inside the switch. 

Below is the detent plunger and spring. This will be present if the gearbox does not have a reverse lamps switch. Beside them is the small pushrod, it fits inside the spring and articulates the plunger of the switch. Note the small size of the switch plunger, as discussed above by Doug, in his comparison with available verisimilar switches.

if you do have a correct switch, please check to see if it works before removing it from the transmission. I think a 1 3/16" thin wrench is needed for the switch, and then the little pushrod is also needed for the switch to work.

 Posted: Nov 9, 2017 04:23PM
mur
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Here is an image of the various parts of the switch

 Posted: Nov 9, 2017 04:18PM
mur
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That is exactly the switch we are talking about.

 Posted: Nov 9, 2017 02:43PM
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I can check, but will a reverse switch off an Austin America/MG 1100 work? I probably have one that I will never use!
850mini

 Posted: Nov 9, 2017 07:54AM
mur
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I think you could put a spacer in between the switch and the spring, which would prevent the spring from pressing the detent but the little pushrod set inside the spring would still do its job. I suppose a slightly larger diameter of spring would also be OK. The spacer would be slightly more thick than the detent ball extends out, and then concave inside.

The only thing that would concern me would be the look of the spade connectors pointing straight up. Ew.

Thanks for finding that switch.

 Posted: Nov 9, 2017 05:00AM
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I had considered modifying switches but was focused on how I would prevent the plunger from spinning when using a single point tool.  Grinding in the lathe sounds like it should work quite well.  Thanks for the suggestion.

Doug L.
 Posted: Nov 8, 2017 07:15PM
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Doug, I tried to fit one and the plunger is too big as you say. However I reckon you could chuck this switch in a lathe and grind the plunger diameter down a bit with an angle grinder.
It only needs to clear the inside of the detent spring, diameter not critical.

Kevin G

1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.

 Posted: Nov 3, 2017 03:39AM
 Edited:  Nov 4, 2017 06:29AM
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I haven't worked on enough MGBs to know if they use the same reverse switch.  If it is the same switch you would still need to search for a used one.  If new ones were available and they were the  same as used on the Mini... there would be plenty of new switches for Minis.

For years I have noticed that the vendor listings for the the Mini switch use a picture of the very similar looking reverse and overdrive lockout switch used on many other British cars.  However, the plunger on the overdrive lockout switch is too large to fit inside the detent spring on the Mini.

If you have access to a lathe, you could indeed make a longer actuator rod and an adapter with internal o-ring seal so you could use some other sealed switch.

EDIT:  I Googled this morning for the MGB reverse switch.  Pictures of that switch (one included below) indicate it is the same as the overdrive lockout switch used on most British cars.  It looks similar to the Austin America reverse switch but as I mentioned earlier, the actuator plunger is too large to fit inside the Mini's reverse detent spring.

Doug L.
 Posted: Nov 2, 2017 08:44PM
mur
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I have noticed that no one has walked out to that sandwich mount/damaged idler gear Austin America transmission in their shed and removed the reverse lamp switch, tested it and offered to mail it to you. Years ago that would have happened a few times.

While Doug was writing his answer to your idea about using the failure prone and certainly not loved by me rod change type switch, I went out to the garage and slid the moving dolly of transmissions into the light. I have a late remote out of a 1972 Mini 1000 that sat for decades. I spun the switch out, tested it, and since it did not work I dismantled it.  It definitely was full of the detritus that can only come after sitting under a seized 998 for decades.

Now, this switch is not the reason British Leyland went belly up. No excess had been lavished upon it. Calling it cheap would be an insult to inexpensive things made with the minimum investment. It was, however, sufficient for the task intended.  

Here is what is important: the switch does need to be able to resist the ingress of oil at crankcase pressures. Also, the switch does NOT act as the reverse detent, but it must retain the spring for the reverse detent.

The spring and reverse detent are the same for all versions. The gearbox with the reverse switch has a small rod inside the spring which pushes on the switch when reverse is selected. Not only could you make an adapter to fit some other transmission mounted back up light switch, you might also choose to re thread the boss on the gearbox to use another switch. Lastly, you could take a regular plug as is found on a box without the switch, weld an adapter to it, drill through it and fit an appropriate pushrods to activate the switch.

Also, don't MGBs have the same switch? 

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